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Old May 13, 2006 | 04:36 PM
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I just got my nitrous bottle back from the painter today:



It was anodized with two caots of red. It has no clear at all on the bottle. My question is, what exactly kind of clear should I use, how I should use it, and where can I get it? Also do I wax the bottle? And if yes, do I wax before or after I spray clear? Both?
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Old May 13, 2006 | 05:12 PM
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Neither. Paint's not gonna adhere over wax. Then, you don't want to wax over fresh paint.
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Old May 13, 2006 | 06:23 PM
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First of all, if it was anodized then you do not clear over it at all. Anodize is the finished surface. Other coats will not adhere to it unless it is de-anodized or really roughed up. The finish you have there is the intended surface finish. Most anodize is not really that shiny if that's what you were going for.
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Old May 13, 2006 | 10:18 PM
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Ok well the finish is really dull and not a consistent finish. How exactly do I get a smooth, and consistent finish while also being shiny?
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Old May 13, 2006 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian2006
Ok well the finish is really dull and not a consistent finish. How exactly do I get a smooth, and consistent finish while also being shiny?
Brian,

With any plating finish, which is what anodize is, the resulting surface is only as good as what you started with. If the person who did this did not polish the surface to a very smooth finish before dipping in the anodize solution, then you will have a finished surface the same texture as what you started with. That's why chroming is so expensive. It's not the chroming process that costs a lot, it's the prep work and polishing work that goes into it before the part ever sees chrome. That's explains the dullness. As far as the finish being inconsistent, I assume you mean there are light and dark patches? If so, then honestly the person probably was not very good at anodizing. If you're not happy with it, take it back and see if he can de-anodize it for you and have him or someone else paint it with regular automotive paint and clear or probably better yet, have it powdercoated.

Bryan
parbreak
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Old May 14, 2006 | 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by parbreak
Brian,

With any plating finish, which is what anodize is, the resulting surface is only as good as what you started with. If the person who did this did not polish the surface to a very smooth finish before dipping in the anodize solution, then you will have a finished surface the same texture as what you started with. That's why chroming is so expensive. It's not the chroming process that costs a lot, it's the prep work and polishing work that goes into it before the part ever sees chrome. That's explains the dullness. As far as the finish being inconsistent, I assume you mean there are light and dark patches? If so, then honestly the person probably was not very good at anodizing. If you're not happy with it, take it back and see if he can de-anodize it for you and have him or someone else paint it with regular automotive paint and clear or probably better yet, have it powdercoated.

Bryan
parbreak
yeah you're right about the light and dark patches. But on my last bottle:



It was very clear that there was some kind of coat of clear on top of it because it was smooth as glass. I know to get the anodized look you must polish the bottle and therefore making lines on the actual bottle itself for the look. And you couldn't feel those lines one bit in this bottle.

Am I going completely crazy or is there some other explanation?
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Old May 14, 2006 | 06:51 AM
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I'm no expert, but I would have to say the difference in those 2 bottles, is the blue one was polished to a mirror shine before it was anodized. That is what left a clearcoat like surface. That red bottle looks as though it still had a brushed finish on it and was not polished, that's why it has the rougher surface. I could be wrong, but most anodized finishes do not have clearcoat on them.

Bryan
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