T/A sleepy eye info...
see that little rusty piece in there, that is the new stop. use the existing bolt that is there, just drill another hole at the point you want the light to stop at, and that is all. Oh, and if your headlight motor does the little clicking thing when it goes all the way up, this fixes that without replacing the gear. I also am working on a new set up with a one piece mounting plate, and a set of the new C6 Vette headlights. It will have to open a little further than this one does, but it should make a better looking set up when done.
Why is it that all the ones that DONT own an LT1 bird hate this so much?I agree I need to figure out a way to build a surround for them, but so far have been unsuccessful at it. And yes, these lights work EXACTLY like the factory lights do, even when the car is moving, well, they should, the car has not ran in almost 3 years, but I have offered up to install these on someones car to test them, but no takers. I have no idea if they will bounce alot, or any other problems while driving, but they work just like the factory ones do. They pop up with the light switch inside the car (only 3 inches instead of the 8 that they used to), the lows come on when the switch is fully on. Click the turn signal lever and the highs kick on (I have it now so the lows stay on as well, but could be easily changed to cut the lows if I wanted), and if you turn the lights fully on, then turn the switch back to the parklight position, the lights stay up, but the beams turn off, just like factory. Oh yeah, one other thing I should mention, I have figured out a way to cut the factory bucket in such I could put the factory square light back into it, remove the new stop, wiring, and presto, factory lights again.
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2005
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Originally Posted by drivefast4fun
see that little rusty piece in there, that is the new stop. use the existing bolt that is there, just drill another hole at the point you want the light to stop at, and that is all. Oh, and if your headlight motor does the little clicking thing when it goes all the way up, this fixes that without replacing the gear. I also am working on a new set up with a one piece mounting plate, and a set of the new C6 Vette headlights. It will have to open a little further than this one does, but it should make a better looking set up when done.
Why is it that all the ones that DONT own an LT1 bird hate this so much?I agree I need to figure out a way to build a surround for them, but so far have been unsuccessful at it. And yes, these lights work EXACTLY like the factory lights do, even when the car is moving, well, they should, the car has not ran in almost 3 years, but I have offered up to install these on someones car to test them, but no takers. I have no idea if they will bounce alot, or any other problems while driving, but they work just like the factory ones do. They pop up with the light switch inside the car (only 3 inches instead of the 8 that they used to), the lows come on when the switch is fully on. Click the turn signal lever and the highs kick on (I have it now so the lows stay on as well, but could be easily changed to cut the lows if I wanted), and if you turn the lights fully on, then turn the switch back to the parklight position, the lights stay up, but the beams turn off, just like factory. Oh yeah, one other thing I should mention, I have figured out a way to cut the factory bucket in such I could put the factory square light back into it, remove the new stop, wiring, and presto, factory lights again.
leave it for the import crowd honestly, it isnt ricey or anything, it's just looks better on those cars, but to help you even if your not going to listen to me, go to the 240 forums, they have this little module that you hook up to the motor and you can control the hight from the inside, like a little **** that alows so much current to get to the motors then you cut it off, instead of having to hope you get it at the right angle, i'll see if i can find the company that dose that and post up.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-S...spagenameZWDVW
theres taht one, there's another one on their forum that's like 120 bucks, but pssssh rather retro fit the cheaper one...
theres taht one, there's another one on their forum that's like 120 bucks, but pssssh rather retro fit the cheaper one...
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I actually like that idea, the motors cut off when they reach a certain level of resistance right? so it shouldn`t be anymore than to select a new point for both sides and buy the smaller projector lights.....or maybe I`m way off.....new stuff to try......after all not like a sunshade spoiler or anything.... 
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Originally Posted by reject
they have this little module that you hook up to the motor and you can control the hight from the inside, like a little **** that alows so much current to get to the motors then you cut it off, instead of having to hope you get it at the right angle.
there's another one on their forum that's like 120 bucks
Make a peice to go around it and we will like it, other wise it looks halfassed if you leave it like that and Cheap
As I said before, I have tried, but nothing looks good. I dont have much practice with fiberglass work, but that looks like my next route I am going to try. And I might just scrap this set up altogether and focus on the Vette headlight assembly. Those lights make so much more light, with such a nice cut off point, no huge glare like these have, but the lids have to open more, and I have been trying to keep them low, real low, so less drag, more sleekness, so I have not tackled that as of yet.
I wish you luck Nite_Hawk, just remember not to over think anything, or you will spend alot of time going in circles.
Originally Posted by drivefast4fun
So let me see if I understand how that thing works? It kills the power to the motors at a certain height, so once the motor makes X amount of turns, it just stops, kinda like if it takes 100 turns to fully open the headlight on a LT1 bird, you could just open the headlight to 50 turns and set that little device at that point, and from then on it would only open to that point? And that costs $120.00????? Do you know or understand how the motors work on these cars? All I have done is change the point at which the motor kicks out, nothing more. Disconnect the cross bar that has the part that hits the stop and the other side that pushes and pulls on the light assembly (one small nut), then kick on the lights and just watch the shaft spin, and spin, and spin. I have a whole whopping $0.76 in my stops, and if I want to change it, say....make it open further, just modify that little bracket with a die grinder, or build another one with a piece of scrap that ANY machine shop will just give away. I can reuse the bolts and nuts, and only had to drill two small holes in the headlight support piece.
it was just an option, there's this kid at school that has one of those, looks bad ***, he can adjust it up or down how he likes without having to open the hood, then wooping out the wrenches, then playing aorund with his nuts, bending the brackets, sticking it back on, screwing around with his nuts again, then closing the hood, then getting back inside the car, and finish playing joe cool. i havnt installed one of these YET in my RX7, but thinking basic electric, i'd guess it's just like the dimmer switch in your hall way, only alows so much current to get by, then that's it. or like the dimmer switch you have in the dash to adjust the brightness of the lights, same concept.
so this kid at your school, I am guessing he has kept the stock lights on his car? So anyone that is keeping their stock lights on their bird, that little device would be just fine for them. However, from what Nite_Hawk seems to be looking for is replacing the factory square single bulb, and go with something custom. So why waste an extra $120 on your option, when the lights will only need to open to one desired height? The only reason that I would want, or need to change the height is for a different set of lights that are maybe bigger, or smaller. I will give you that your idea is an option, but it is a pretty pricey one, and one that is not needed. Although, if I had one of those, I could shine my lights up DIRECTLY into the car in front of me with the lights that I used, hmm......? Also, being able to make them raise up higher could make it easier for some adjustments.
