Help with swirl marks....ZaneO????
Help with swirl marks....ZaneO???? Fellas, got my ride back from the paint shop about 1.5 mths ago, i just washed it for the first time with Z7 and noticed a tone of swirl marks the paint co did when they touched up on my fender. I use all Zaino products and occasionally Meguiars. What i want to know is can i use something like a swirl or scratch remover and then follow up with the Zaino? Also i have to prep my vehicle for shipping back to the states, which wax offers ther best protection against the harsh salt water it will be exposed to while being shipped? Thanks for any inputs.
Do you have a buffer? If so I would try Manzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish. If you dont then get some Meguiar's Scratch X and some NXT to finish it off and it should rid of most until you get a buffer.
The easiest way to get rid of the swirl marks is using a buffer with some swirl remover. You can use the swirl remover by hand, but it is alot of work. The buffer makes it easy. The Porter Cable is a great tool for that and general detailing use. On protecting your car during shipping I would wash it up and apply a coat of some quality polish/wax. That should help protect it for its ride back home. As soon as possible when you get back give it a good cleaning to remove all the salt water and spray. The claybar should work for that. If you need to use the claybar, reapply the polish/wax afterwards.
Collinite #476S is THE ULTIMATE wax that can withstand a hurricane. Not really, but I've yet to hear or experience a wax that can outperform 476 in terms of durability. I detailed my GF's Grand Cherokee prior to a deployment (5 months), parked it outside (I know, I know), and came back to see that water was STILL beading off of it. This happened all in high-desert weather that has taken a dump on many cars here in Mountain Home, Idaho. I was skeptical of 476 at first, and thought our deployment would be the perfect time to stress-test it.
Oh, and I'm not lieing when I say that parts of the car (particularly the rear end above the moulding) STILL bead (albeit poorly) and it's been FIVE MONTHS since I've been back from that deployment.
Granted, rain isn't exactly salt water, but I've had great experiences with 476 and would recommend that you give it a shot.
Oh, and I'm not lieing when I say that parts of the car (particularly the rear end above the moulding) STILL bead (albeit poorly) and it's been FIVE MONTHS since I've been back from that deployment.
Granted, rain isn't exactly salt water, but I've had great experiences with 476 and would recommend that you give it a shot.
use swirl remover, with a PC then seal or wax .. there is no problem using Meg's or menzerna to remove the swirls, then sealing with Zaino ..
if you have Zaino, just use it .. it is as durable as anything on the market..
if you have Zaino, just use it .. it is as durable as anything on the market..
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From: Amarillo, Texas
As mentioned, a quality swirl remover (Menzerna, Zaino ZPC, Tropi Care TC8, etc.) will help, but the best benefit is going to be seen with an orbital or rotary.
If you're already using Zaino, a couple of coats should provide great protection for several months. I routinely go 5-6 months on our Tahoe with a couple of coats.
If you're already using Zaino, a couple of coats should provide great protection for several months. I routinely go 5-6 months on our Tahoe with a couple of coats.
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I totally agree with ZaneO, as long as you use a Porter Cable buffer, there are alot of products that will give great results. I just used the Tropicare TC-8, followed by the TC-3, and couldn't be happier. One quick pass of each got rid of 90% off all scratches & swirls. My paint never looked so good as it does now, not even when it was new. Get in on the group purchase Steve is offering right now, you won't regret it. For the buffer, multiple pads, & products, it's a great deal.
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Brett Foote And I'll throw in that I've got an entire shelf of products, probably over $100 worth, that I've bought to remove scratches & swirls by hand, and none worked as well as the PC buffer did in one pass.
Now as far as potentially damaging the paint with an orbital buffer goes....do you have to be a half brained three legged monkey before anything happens to the paint, or do you really have to be on your toes to make sure nothing happens to it?
An orbital or rotary buffer will damage your paint fast if you don't know what you are doing. Like ZaneO said those buffers will give the best results faster, but you need to know how to use it. The PC is a dual action machine so it is more user friendly, but because of that it has its limitations. The idea is to start with the less aggressive methods and move up if needed.
where to buy??? Thanks for all the replies fellas. Next question is where can i buy these products online? Also will the clay bay bar remove all the road grime that is on the painted lip just inside the fender well? It always seems to look a bit chalky to me after i wash and wax. The PC, is this something i can order, if so where?
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Originally Posted by 99zee
An orbital or rotary buffer will damage your paint fast if you don't know what you are doing. Like ZaneO said those buffers will give the best results faster, but you need to know how to use it. The PC is a dual action machine so it is more user friendly, but because of that it has its limitations. The idea is to start with the less aggressive methods and move up if needed.
Originally Posted by JeaneGrae
Thanks for all the replies fellas. Next question is where can i buy these products online? Also will the clay bay bar remove all the road grime that is on the painted lip just inside the fender well? It always seems to look a bit chalky to me after i wash and wax. The PC, is this something i can order, if so where?
As far as removing road grime, the clay "might" work. You might need something more aggressive depending on how long its been on there.
Last edited by 99zee; May 23, 2007 at 06:30 PM.
