And hope it isn't bad. So I have 33k original miles and put a converter in about two weeks ago. Has driven fine since but tonight kind of out of the blue the SES light come on and the car wouldn't really leave from the stop light. It was like I had a 5k stall and then it wouldn't auto upshift but I could move the shifter and it would clunk into a gear. I also could never get it into OD, it was like it just wasn't there or couldn't feel the converter lock-up. When in gear (think D was okay) and I gave it some gas it would move out good when cruising along. Is it hosed or maybe an electrical gremlin?

 

had i tuned yet?

 

Nope. I was waiting to put the valve springs and rockers on first. I had it tuned before but not since the converter.

 

You will set a trans code with a stall converter. You need to get the code disabled.

 

Do you think that is the problem I am seeing? Can I disconnect the battery to clear it (and hopefully make it right again) until I get the rockers and all changed?


I ran it for 2 weeks without issue though. I pulled out of a parking lot tonight, SES lights up and it would barely move away from stop light. Then no OD and or upshifts.

 

It will clear but will return again until you get the diagnostic code turned off. Verify what code is setting first to make sure something else is not going on.

 

Sounds like ur in limp mode and stuck in 3rd gear......a higher stall will cause u to throw some shift solenoid codes but i dont think ive ever see it go into limp mode.....do u have a cooler on it?

 

Your setting code PO757 have the test for the code removed and all will be fine again

 

Wow! You even know the code! Anywhere to read what that one is and how it defines my issue?


Closest place is 20 miles away and I fear damage driving it like this unless a battery reset will make it okay. Maybe I can put an ad out there for someone to meet me with a tuner (what kind can remove it?) and clear it.

 

U dont have an autozone in town?

 

I do and they can clear the code. Question is from the house to there. Will taking the battery terminal off clear it so it drives normal?

 

You will need something like the diablo, hptuners or efilve to remove the test for the code simply clearing it will not solve the issue.
After you do that you should be good to go.

 

Removing the battery terminal clear it long enough to get it to Autozone?

 

Yea, it's buried neck deep in one of the most random stickies I've ever took the time to read.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/9817507-post26.html

You'd never expect to find it, but it's in here. -->>> https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...lush-more.html

 

It is a little random However I actually created it in such a way the titles of each post are supposed to be searchable though key words to find what your looking for. The other option would have been many separate threads so I thought that was the best way to get what i was looking to acomplish.

 

I was thinking of that, it is random, I didn't expect to find that info in it but I read it all and it was exactly what I was looking for.
I thought I should add that it is very informative, random might sound bad I don't know. But it is very informative and full of useful information.

 

Guess I need to post an add for someone to pay me a visit and turn the code off LOL

 

So I rented a scanner from AutoZone today and cleared the code PO757 and it is working like normal again... so good info here! I'm keeping the scanner until I get the rear swapped and the other stuff before going back to the dyno. Won't be long though and I will need a trans. I can feel it coming! I am debating on whether to do the 4L60 or go TH-400

 

If you like driving that car and dont wanna loose 30 percent of your fuel efficency among other things I would do the 60e

 

It's shifts are not snappy. What do you guys do to them to make them snap and work right?