4l80e swap..Driveline
4l80e swap..Driveline I'm rebuilding a 4l80e for a swap (until I can afford a FLT unit), and am just curious if anyone knows of a driveline that might be a direct bolt-in for my 96 firebird.
Thanks.
Thanks.
The 4L60E in F bodies and the 4L80E are the same length. You can use the stock driveshaft (with a conversion U joint and a new transmission slip yoke).
Make sure its a later model LS1 4L60E driveshaft....I think the older trannies are shorter.
Make sure its a later model LS1 4L60E driveshaft....I think the older trannies are shorter.
-Dustin-
Trans is from a 00 2500 expressvan, and I'm having the converter built to match the flexplate of the ffi lq4/l92 that I'm building for the swap. All of the vehicle wiring and ecu is being swapped to 2000 f-body, so my understanding is that the ecu should control the 4l80e without any problems other than a trans-harness modification and a few re-pins at the ecu......does this sound correct??
Trans is from a 00 2500 expressvan, and I'm having the converter built to match the flexplate of the ffi lq4/l92 that I'm building for the swap. All of the vehicle wiring and ecu is being swapped to 2000 f-body, so my understanding is that the ecu should control the 4l80e without any problems other than a trans-harness modification and a few re-pins at the ecu......does this sound correct??
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I already had HPtuners. I sent my tune to support@hptuners.com, and a few days later, I had an email back with the tranny segment swapped. I did a write entire, and I was done.
A stock 4L80E should be good to 500-600rwhp stock, maybe more if the RPMs are kept down. Parish8 made into the 10s in a pickup with a stock one. If you do keep it stock, I recommend the Transgo shift kit that dual feeds the direct drum, it helps out with strength a lot.
A stock 4L80E should be good to 500-600rwhp stock, maybe more if the RPMs are kept down. Parish8 made into the 10s in a pickup with a stock one. If you do keep it stock, I recommend the Transgo shift kit that dual feeds the direct drum, it helps out with strength a lot.
On my car the stock DS is a tad shorter than I'd like it to be but figure it'll be ok for a test ride or two. This is with a Strange U1650 yoke.
you should check the length. the slip yoke should be 3/4-1" from bottoming out on the output shaft with the suspension fully loaded. If it's too long or too short you could do some damage.
On my car the stock DS is a tad shorter than I'd like it to be but figure it'll be ok for a test ride or two. This is with a Strange U1650 yoke.
On my car the stock DS is a tad shorter than I'd like it to be but figure it'll be ok for a test ride or two. This is with a Strange U1650 yoke.
i have a question, i have the yoke that was originally in the tranny and going to get a conversion u-jount, but the yoke will go in 3/4 than will stop but you can push it all the way in with little force but will pop out when you let go to me it seems like it is building up air pressure inside the yoke. The yoke doesn't have a hole in the end to let out air.
i have a question, i have the yoke that was originally in the tranny and going to get a conversion u-jount, but the yoke will go in 3/4 than will stop but you can push it all the way in with little force but will pop out when you let go to me it seems like it is building up air pressure inside the yoke. The yoke doesn't have a hole in the end to let out air.
When you do switch yokes, put a regular (non-booted) rear seal on it, and take off the O ring (it is inside a pressed on sleeve on the tailshaft).