Does this look right??
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Does this look right?? Finally had a weekend off and dropped the tranny IOT see why the torque converter was not locking and install a new Vig.
Teeth on the larger diameter shaft feel as rough as they look
Here's the pics
Teeth on the larger diameter shaft feel as rough as they look
Here's the pics
Last edited by aboatguy; May 9, 2009 at 06:44 PM.
There is whats looks like excessive wear on the stator its common to see a little and would probably be ok normally but from the picture that looks like a little much and the stator should probably be replaced something small can appear big in a picture since its only two dimensional so not sure but i would looking at it. I would also replace the little oring at end of shaft. However neither of these would cause no lockup looking at there condition. But a stator failure could kill the new converter.
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Agreed that the stator does appear to be worn. I would however replace the oring on the input shaft. It looks like it is pretty flat in the picture and I'm betting it is hard. Vince
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It shifts fine, just had the converter locking problem. Should I just replace the oring and give it a shot with the new vig, or :
1: replace the stator?
2: order new tranny?
Is the o ring a regular o ring or something special?
a little background info
engine is a 355 with AI 200CC heads, ported intake, AI cam, and I spin it to 6800+ every trip.
Mike
1: replace the stator?
2: order new tranny?
Is the o ring a regular o ring or something special?
a little background info
engine is a 355 with AI 200CC heads, ported intake, AI cam, and I spin it to 6800+ every trip.
Mike
I would at min replace the stator and the oring. The oring is not just something off the shelf at the auto parts store however, Its made to work in high temps and must be compatable with trans fluid.
However assuming the trans is stock the wear on the stator could also be and indication of the general state of the trans internally. Though I have noted some just were not hardened as well as others. So if the car is high milage you may want to consider a trans also.
However assuming the trans is stock the wear on the stator could also be and indication of the general state of the trans internally. Though I have noted some just were not hardened as well as others. So if the car is high milage you may want to consider a trans also.
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Thread Starter
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I would at min replace the stator and the oring. The oring is not just something off the shelf at the auto parts store however, Its made to work in high temps and must be compatable with trans fluid.
However assuming the trans is stock the wear on the stator could also be and indication of the general state of the trans internally. Though I have noted some just were not hardened as well as others. So if the car is high milage you may want to consider a trans also.
However assuming the trans is stock the wear on the stator could also be and indication of the general state of the trans internally. Though I have noted some just were not hardened as well as others. So if the car is high milage you may want to consider a trans also.
It's had the midwest 2800 on it for about 10K miles.
Now is the stator an easy task or does the tranny have to come all the way apart. ....is an entire new pump the better option.........or suck it up and get it rebuilt?
Will replacing the stock pump help it survice at 6800 rpm or is there a simple option?
What sucks is I meant to do a tranny drop and install this weekend (since I finally have a free one, now I'll be down for a little while because I know I'm working next weekend for sure.
Mike
If I was not buying a trans I would replace the complete pump assembly if your not used to replacing the stator its a pain in the ***. As for the 70000 plus miles that can be high or low depending on how the car is driven.
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