Transmission questions
Transmission questions So again my 4L60e tranny looks like its screwed up. Slipping on the 2->3 shift under light throttle. Haven't bothere going WOT in an effort to not make it worse. I hooked up my datamaster any no DTC codes popped up so i am assuming it is mechanical since the same thing happened last time it got screwed up with the clutch packs and a crakced something or other . I think I've had enough of these things. I can't catch a break on them. Thinking of swapping to a TH400. What is needed besides a new converter and a new trans cross member? I have a tunnel mounted torque arm from umi. Will i still be able to use that? Will I aslo need a new driveshaft?
I really don't want to rebuild this 4l60e as it is pricey to rebuild and doesn't last. However it seems like the costs associated with a swap are high. Will the car feel and run stronger with the 400? And what about the valve body is it better to go witht the rmvb or leave it as is? I know the majority lets the 4L60e shift itself is it the other way around with the 400?
I really don't want to rebuild this 4l60e as it is pricey to rebuild and doesn't last. However it seems like the costs associated with a swap are high. Will the car feel and run stronger with the 400? And what about the valve body is it better to go witht the rmvb or leave it as is? I know the majority lets the 4L60e shift itself is it the other way around with the 400?
The car will not be faster with the 400. If i did go that route I would likley go RMVB and manually shift , While you can set up the 400 to shift auto at certain times its much more difficult to do than the 4l60e as the 400 reqiures mechanical changes.
You should also consider that beyond being a little pricey for the swap there are other things to take into account cost wise.
1 is 30-40 percent loss in fuel efficency on the highway
2 no lockup for the converter measning a high stall will slip always.
3- 30 percent or more wear on the engine,(bear in mind its how many revolutions and engine turns that really affects longtivity) Thus the reason that before OVERDRIVE it was considered lucky for and engine to last 100000 miles and considered worn out by then.
So I would certainly think the swap over carefully unless the car is really just a weekend warrior/strip car
You should also consider that beyond being a little pricey for the swap there are other things to take into account cost wise.
1 is 30-40 percent loss in fuel efficency on the highway
2 no lockup for the converter measning a high stall will slip always.
3- 30 percent or more wear on the engine,(bear in mind its how many revolutions and engine turns that really affects longtivity) Thus the reason that before OVERDRIVE it was considered lucky for and engine to last 100000 miles and considered worn out by then.
So I would certainly think the swap over carefully unless the car is really just a weekend warrior/strip car
__________________
very good point with the extra wear on the engine i hadn't thought about that. car is just a weekend warrior so it shouldnt be a huge issue. sees about 3K miles a year max. however the track is about an hour and a half away so the drive won't be so pleasant.
does anyone know if the umi tunnel mount ta setup with the ds shafety loop can be modified to work with the 400? if so what needs to be done? fyi this is an lt1 car we're talking about.
