Fastener sizes on the 4l60e
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 521
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From: Farmingdale NJ
Starter is 13mm. You'll need a 90 degree pick to pop off the oil level sending unit. Plastic cover around starter is 10mm. Trans pan is 13mm. You don't need a wrench for cooler lines, just a pick to pop off the clips (make sure you put the clips back on before you re-install the trans, or it's a bitch). Bellhousing bolts (trans to motor) are 13mm. You'll need LOTS of extentions and a 13mm swivel-socket for a few of the bolts. Factory TC bolts are metric Allens, I think 8mm but I forget. Crossmember and torque arm bolts are 15mm. Driveshaft is 7/16". You'll also need to remove at least 1 O2 sensor depending on your exhaust setup, a large adjustable works fine for that. 24mm 1/2" drive socket for turning the crank with the balancer bolt, so you can get to all 3 converter bolts.
And that should be about it! Valvebody bolts are 8 and 10 mm. Make sure you use a torque wrench on those bolts! 100 INCH pounds is all they take. Start all the bolts by hand first to make sure the spacer plate is lined up, then torque them from the center out. The re-torque them again. It helps to remove the shift detent spring (12mm) before removing the valve body, and replacing it after the valvebody is bolted in.
And here's a trick. To keep the bolt from falling out of the socket while re-installing the bellhousing bolts with the long extention and swivel socket, get a regular disposable rubber glove. Rip a finger off of it and put it over the socket like a condom, leaving some extra at the end just like the real thing. Then force the bolt into the socket, and the glove will pinch the bolt head against the inside of the socket so the bolt doesn't keep falling out. A peice of paper works pretty good too.
Have fun!
And that should be about it! Valvebody bolts are 8 and 10 mm. Make sure you use a torque wrench on those bolts! 100 INCH pounds is all they take. Start all the bolts by hand first to make sure the spacer plate is lined up, then torque them from the center out. The re-torque them again. It helps to remove the shift detent spring (12mm) before removing the valve body, and replacing it after the valvebody is bolted in.
And here's a trick. To keep the bolt from falling out of the socket while re-installing the bellhousing bolts with the long extention and swivel socket, get a regular disposable rubber glove. Rip a finger off of it and put it over the socket like a condom, leaving some extra at the end just like the real thing. Then force the bolt into the socket, and the glove will pinch the bolt head against the inside of the socket so the bolt doesn't keep falling out. A peice of paper works pretty good too.
Have fun!
