Reinstalling 4l60e pump...won't go back in.
Reinstalling 4l60e pump...won't go back in. So i pulled the pump and replaced the rotor and vanes and all that stuff that exploded, looks tip top in there now.
Anyway, i didn't remove the bellhousing, and the pump came out just fine with some finessing and prying form the inside and whatnot.
Now I can't get it back in...it looks like theres a 1/16" gap between the pump and the bellhousing on one side but not the other.
I tried tapping it with a block of wood and a rubber mallet, not even a mm move.
Should i try getting really long screws and try to draw it in with the screws? I don't have a torx t50plus to get the bellhousing bolts out.
Anyway, i didn't remove the bellhousing, and the pump came out just fine with some finessing and prying form the inside and whatnot.
Now I can't get it back in...it looks like theres a 1/16" gap between the pump and the bellhousing on one side but not the other.
I tried tapping it with a block of wood and a rubber mallet, not even a mm move.
Should i try getting really long screws and try to draw it in with the screws? I don't have a torx t50plus to get the bellhousing bolts out.
Hm, didn't think of that. I'll try it tomorrow.
Also, does anyone know if theres anything special about the o-ring on the input shaft that you have to remove to get the pump off? I broke mine, it was very brittle.
Also, does anyone know if theres anything special about the o-ring on the input shaft that you have to remove to get the pump off? I broke mine, it was very brittle.
Well, there was no problem really, I just didn't know how much that stupid lip on the bellhousing kept it from going in. I went to the store and got 3 bolts that were 2 inches longer and used stacks of washers and used the bolts to pull it back in 1/2 turn at a time. At one point it went "click" and pulled in like 3/4 inch, then i could use the stock bolts to turn it in evenly.
Now it's just replacing that stupid o-ring that broke, and bolting it all together. Would it be a good idea to use blue loctite on the TC to flexplate bolts?
Now it's just replacing that stupid o-ring that broke, and bolting it all together. Would it be a good idea to use blue loctite on the TC to flexplate bolts?
Did you use an alignment tool on the pump?
The two pump halfs have to be aligned up near perfect for it to just "drop in" to the case, if not you'll have to force it in.
The o-ring is no big deal, but don't you have a gasket set already? Should be in there, I hope you replace the seal on the front of the pump too.
Its a good idea to use loctite on the bolts, but I normally use red, blue isn't very strong.
The two pump halfs have to be aligned up near perfect for it to just "drop in" to the case, if not you'll have to force it in.
The o-ring is no big deal, but don't you have a gasket set already? Should be in there, I hope you replace the seal on the front of the pump too.
Its a good idea to use loctite on the bolts, but I normally use red, blue isn't very strong.
I replaced all of the gaskets, seals, and the o-ring. I bought red and blue loctite, I guess i'll use the red. I heard that you need heat to break it loose though, is that going to cause a problem when I have to remove it again?
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 294
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From: Bowling Green, KY
x2 Did you align them like 95z suggested? If you have to force the pump on you are going cause damage. Might be why your having problems with reverse. Just lube the pump to case o-ring and input shaft and a few taps with a rubber mallet in a circle should be it. If not remove and double check things. Maybe the input drum came out a little bit causing a friction to become misaligned. Maybe that was the "click" you heard. Broke the splines off a friction. Did you match up the old pump to case gasket with the new one?
