Which Torque Converter
#1
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Which Torque Converter
I just bought a 2000 SS with a rebuilt engine. The engine has some aftermarket heads with some porting and polishing done. It has headers, and an MTI X1 camshaft. It is also all forged and was built for NOS. The engine has around 15k miles on it. It was mail order tuned after it was rebuilt. It has a fresh transmission. I got an LS6 intake with it and was wondering if it would just bolt up with no injector changes. The frame is connected and it has headers and an exhaust. I was told with a converter it would run a low 12. So now to my question......The previous owner took out his torque converter and put the stock one back in. I was wondering if somebody could help me to figure out which converter would be the best? I am going to drive it mainly on the street. Also, I am assuming that I will have to take it somewhere to get it tuned on a dyno to reset the shift points along with everything else? The way it sits now, I was told that it would make around 450 hp, but the cam kills the engine unless I put it in first gear and shift to drive after it is moving. Any help would be appreciated.
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ok man, when it comes to a stall it is all personal preferece....too small of a stall and it will be a dog down low and wont run as well of et's......to big of stall and you are gonna lose some gas milage and driveability...also the bigger stalls eat up a little more power in drivetrain loss, so u have to ask yourself what you want...i looked up the specs on your cam and if u didnt know they are 230/227 .591/.571 lsa 112 .......you should run a minimum of a 2800 stall just to make it run right...you also want to go no more than 500 rpm less than your peak torque which is probably around 5000 so u dont want to go above like a 4400....a 2800 wont make it leave all that hard and a 4400 will have your car at a constant rpm of 3000 or more id say while exellerating even from a stop light...i would personally run between a 3200 and 4000 depending on your goals (drivability vs. et) ...also you have to factor in that if you leave on nitrous it will stall higher before the car leaves so if you are going to spray it at the track you can get away with a little smaller stall and still be okay...plus the low rpm dogness will not be a factor on spray...so if u plan to spray it id run a 32-36...if your not gonna spray it id prolly run a 3400 to 4000 prolly a 3600 if it were my car and a 3400 if i planned to spray....and if you didnt know the car is running like **** right when you take off because the cam is too big to not have a stall
as for your ls6 intake question...yes it will bolt right up and you will prolly need to change the tune tho or it might run a little lean...
precision industries and yank are two good stalls to look into...they are expensive tho, so you can look into a cheaper one if ud like and shouldnt run into any problems....also...is your drivetrain stock? if its stock and you plan on keeping it that way and leaving on spray you should run a 3200 stall and biggest, prolly a 3000 would be even better because the rear end is gonna **** all over the track...if you have a built drivetrain the disregard....any more questions feel free to pm me,...if i dont have an answere for you ill find it...also if you are new to this site you will learn that there is people that will talk that dont know what they are talking about so beware not to listen to everything you hear...and with a that cam and ported heads, full exhaust....i wouldnt doubt you seeing high 11's on motor. (depending on your head work and the size of stall you pick, also depending on your air intake system and the tune you have.) get a dyno tune...my buddy got a mail order tune, car ran pretty good, then he got a dyno tune and the car got like 3 more miles to the gallon, car ran cleaner and made more power. Just to add, how your car dies when you take off, once its dyno tuned it will run a lot better down low, plus to stall
as for your ls6 intake question...yes it will bolt right up and you will prolly need to change the tune tho or it might run a little lean...
precision industries and yank are two good stalls to look into...they are expensive tho, so you can look into a cheaper one if ud like and shouldnt run into any problems....also...is your drivetrain stock? if its stock and you plan on keeping it that way and leaving on spray you should run a 3200 stall and biggest, prolly a 3000 would be even better because the rear end is gonna **** all over the track...if you have a built drivetrain the disregard....any more questions feel free to pm me,...if i dont have an answere for you ill find it...also if you are new to this site you will learn that there is people that will talk that dont know what they are talking about so beware not to listen to everything you hear...and with a that cam and ported heads, full exhaust....i wouldnt doubt you seeing high 11's on motor. (depending on your head work and the size of stall you pick, also depending on your air intake system and the tune you have.) get a dyno tune...my buddy got a mail order tune, car ran pretty good, then he got a dyno tune and the car got like 3 more miles to the gallon, car ran cleaner and made more power. Just to add, how your car dies when you take off, once its dyno tuned it will run a lot better down low, plus to stall
#5
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Shark,
give me a call and i will spec one out for you.1-866-726-8358
Thanks,
Greg
give me a call and i will spec one out for you.1-866-726-8358
Thanks,
Greg
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FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS
"IT'S NOT CHEATING, IT'S THE COMPETITIVE EDGE."
1-866-726-8358
info@ftiperformance.com
FTIPerformance.com
FTI Converter build sheet
FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS
"IT'S NOT CHEATING, IT'S THE COMPETITIVE EDGE."
1-866-726-8358
info@ftiperformance.com
FTIPerformance.com
FTI Converter build sheet