The removal seems straightforward enough, but I have 2 BIG concerns:

1) where is the center of gravity of the 4L60E? I'm using a 3 ton jack with a trans cradle to lower it (car is supported by blocks/ cribbing with adequate clearance).

2) The BIG question: I have to leave the torque converter on because either the input shaft is locked in the trans (Monster trans) or the engine is locked. Pulling the trans will tell me which it is. Will it be a problem leaving the TC on the flexplate?

Edit: this is a stock 94 A4 that had a Monster 650-rated trans installed 2k mi. ago, before I got it.

 

Got a late start (half day of work I hadn't planned on). Got everything out of the way and started to lower it but stopped when I heard/saw the exhaust bind at the back of the cat. Letting it soak with PB Blaster for a day and then unbolting it. I did get 2 of the TC bolts out. The third is at about 12:30 but I think I can get it with a really long straight box wrench. Hopefully the trans will drop without the TC. If not a long wrench will fix the situation, it appears.

 

Your gonna need a really long extension to get the top bolts. I have had to pull one without the converter. It is def not recommended but it can be done.
To do this I let the tail shaft hang as low as possible pry the trans out until you can rotate it. Turn it to its side and it will come out it will be very tight on the tunnel and it will scrape. Put down some cardboard boxes with some rags in it to cushion the fall when you pull the trans out its suprisingly light. this is some real back yard stuff.

 

I was able to get my top bolts out with a rachet wrench instead of using a huge socket.

The TC can be left on, but like he mentioned it isn't the ideal way to do it.

 

If you got it that far back and you think it's either the engine or transmission seized, you could try to turn the engine now. It should be back far enough to be off of the trans. But a trans seizure is rare AFAIK.


As far as pulling it with the converter on the engine you should jack or lift the front of the engine up. The transmission might get stuck between the converter and trans tunnel.

I recently pulled one out of a van so the trans tunnel wasn't an issue but the front of the engine wanted to tilt down while the back of the trans was tilted down. I threw a jack under the engine and the trans slid right out.

 

Good idea to spin it as it comes down.

I go back tomorrow to finish. I have a 2' extension atached to a 12" wobble so I'm good on the reach. Also have a second jack so I'll lift the front of the engine for a little extra angle.

Thanks everybody for the help & ideas!

 

Well I hate to say this one is kicking my *** for the moment-

I was able to get the 6 housing bolts, piece of cake. Slid it back a couple inches out of the pipe on the TC but got stuck there. Rotating it helped, got the trans far back enough to clear the larger set of splines on the input shaft, but that was where I ran out of room, no matter what. Couldn't get enough tilt jacking up on the front of the engine to help. Got a 15mm wrench on the last TC bolt but no room to turn it. Tracking down a really long flat 15mm box wrench so I can make this easy.

Thanks for the suggestions- all good.

 

Got it- next one I could do in 20-30 minutes, locked motor or not. Thanks to all for the suggestions and help. 15mm gear wrench on the TC bolt FTW! Bell housing bots were a breeze with a 24" extension and a 12" wobble.