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Torque Converter & TransGo Shift Kit (long)

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Old Jan 25, 2004 | 12:52 AM
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Default Torque Converter & TransGo Shift Kit (long)

Hi, I want to learn more about converters and someone mentioned that a TransGo would be a good bolt-on, too.
I'm not sure about the technical terms and what not, but know that TCs assist in launching and 1/4 mile times by allowing the engine to reach a higher RPM before actually putting it down to track/road (please correct if I'm wrong) My question is how does this affect daily driving, like if I'm at a stoplight, and then gas it (not hard, just normal driving) am I going to get the semi-long stall and then the jerk as the power is transferred to the wheels? How feasible is the TC for daily driving, or would it mainly be for the track? I understand that it is quite a difficult install, and that there are different stall speeds? Could someone please help explain the differences between the stall speeds and what would be good for everyday driving while still being able to post good times at the track.
Additionally, I have no clue what a TransGo Shift kit is, I'd appreciate an explanation as to what it is as well.
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Old Jan 25, 2004 | 01:05 AM
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you should get a couple pages as to what stall and str to get on your new yank,
but whatever tc you get,
be sure to get a TRANS GO shift kit.
it corrects delay/bang when going from P or R to D,
releases gears faster,
shifts faster / harder,
shifts ON TIME
unlike the rev-limiter-banging stock vb setup.
and there are three settings for shift "firmness"
(use three with a sloppy tc)
other shiftkits are just shift kits.
the transgo is a transmission correction kit.
you'll need it after that TC.

oh yeah,
and my vote says 3600/2.5 if youre a bitch,
and 4000/2.6 if youre down.
i got 3400/2.0 cuz i was an ls1.com member and didnt know whats up.
next time its a yank ss4000 or pt4000 foe show
but thats just my opinion reflecting my personal taste.
the transgo aint personal preference,
its mandatory.
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Old Jan 26, 2004 | 01:56 AM
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Bumps, anyone else share or differ on this?
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Old Jan 26, 2004 | 08:40 AM
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get at a minimum a 3500 stall though for a stock car a 3800+ is optimal and the more mods the higher you should go. From a stop light itll just feel like slipping a clutch in a manual car and you really wont feel any bang because youll hit the next gear sooner than youll reach your stall speed. TC's arent just for track use and my tci 3500 with 2.73 gears is very streetable.

lata
Bill
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Old Jan 26, 2004 | 10:09 AM
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I've heard that If you were to get a TQ COnverter then you need a "tranny cooler"? Is this right, and where can I get one?
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Old Jan 26, 2004 | 11:11 AM
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tbyrne,thunderracing,tsp look to your right dude -------------->
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Old Jan 27, 2004 | 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by foff667
get at a minimum a 3500 stall though for a stock car a 3800+ is optimal and the more mods the higher you should go. From a stop light itll just feel like slipping a clutch in a manual car and you really wont feel any bang because youll hit the next gear sooner than youll reach your stall speed. TC's arent just for track use and my tci 3500 with 2.73 gears is very streetable.

lata
Bill
Ok, by steetable, I'm assuming you mean it's okay for everyday driving then. How does it affect gas mileage? I drive approx 240 a week currently, but all I have is exhaust.
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Old Jan 27, 2004 | 06:51 AM
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at 35mph or less i'm seeing 9mpg with a 2 mile trip to work and back every day..
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Old Jan 27, 2004 | 09:45 AM
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Something that has not been addressed:

You have a 2001 vehicle, You WILL have to get your shift points both RPM & MPH adjusted, AND you will need your TM either manipulated or deleted.

I just went through this with my 2001 Z28. I installed a Y3000 2.0 STR (a much milder converter than what you are thinking), the vehicle would not idle correctly, it would constantly shift in and out of gear, and in one case would keep unlocking on the freeway.

I just had the vehicle "dyno tuned", AND ALL THE PROBLEMS HAVE GONE AWAY.

You should strongly consider having this done after the install.

JMHO

SteveC
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Old Jan 27, 2004 | 10:21 AM
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Highway driving there shouldn't be any difference in gas milage because the converter should lock up at around 45mph, although this speed does vary some. I have a 3800 and its very drivable, I wish I had a 4200. Like foff667 says, it just feels like a slipping clutch when your starting out. A tranny cooler would would be a good investment. I never had a shift kit, infact Yank doesn't even recomend one. If you get one Transgo is the only way to go. The cooler is very easy to put in. If you have basic mechanical knowledge the converter shouldn't be a problem, the higher you can get the car off the ground the easier it is. I've never did a shift kit but I've heard this takes alittle longer.
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Old Jan 27, 2004 | 10:43 AM
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hay man if you say 45mph in 4th. My speed limit is 35mph (i do 40), i never reach 45 due to tickets. So thats probably why my shiz is getting crap mileage, never hitting the lockup speed.

I never travel on the freeways, only to track events.

hmm

WHAT IS the best way to verify the converter (TCISSF3500) is actually locking up?
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Old Jan 27, 2004 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by samz28
hay man if you say 45mph in 4th. My speed limit is 35mph (i do 40), i never reach 45 due to tickets. So thats probably why my shiz is getting crap mileage, never hitting the lockup speed.

I never travel on the freeways, only to track events.

hmm

WHAT IS the best way to verify the converter (TCISSF3500) is actually locking up?
They all vary alittle bit, mine locks at about 45mph. You should be able to feel it lock, its feels like a slipping clutch until it locks, when it locks that slipping feeling goes away and your rpm's should drop back down. It almost feels like your tranny shifts into a higher gear. You aren't reaching lock up speed, because when it locks you'll know it. There is night and day difference between locked and unlocked. You have to be very close to lockup at 40mph. Sometimes mine takes a couple miles before it locks.
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Old Jan 27, 2004 | 08:58 PM
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Where is my tracking numer, you said you were going to ship them last Monday. I am still waiting for my floor mats.


QUOTE=FenixSS]Hi, I want to learn more about converters and someone mentioned that a TransGo would be a good bolt-on, too.
I'm not sure about the technical terms and what not, but know that TCs assist in launching and 1/4 mile times by allowing the engine to reach a higher RPM before actually putting it down to track/road (please correct if I'm wrong) My question is how does this affect daily driving, like if I'm at a stoplight, and then gas it (not hard, just normal driving) am I going to get the semi-long stall and then the jerk as the power is transferred to the wheels? How feasible is the TC for daily driving, or would it mainly be for the track? I understand that it is quite a difficult install, and that there are different stall speeds? Could someone please help explain the differences between the stall speeds and what would be good for everyday driving while still being able to post good times at the track.
Additionally, I have no clue what a TransGo Shift kit is, I'd appreciate an explanation as to what it is as well.[/QUOTE]
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Old Jan 27, 2004 | 09:42 PM
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Sal, they're on their way.

Everyone, thank you for your input. It is greatly appreciated. Keep em comming.
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Old Jan 28, 2004 | 07:10 AM
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so with 45mph locking, that explains my lack of mpg. If i'm doing 45mph i'll get a ticket, they've been trapping the damn 30mph drop alot lately en my route. I'll have to ask for my verter to lock earlier because im getting about 9mpg driving in stoplight to stoplight traffic never exceeding 40mph (again cops with lidar). Kinda sucks.
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Old Jan 28, 2004 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by samz28
so with 45mph locking, that explains my lack of mpg. If i'm doing 45mph i'll get a ticket, they've been trapping the damn 30mph drop alot lately en my route. I'll have to ask for my verter to lock earlier because im getting about 9mpg driving in stoplight to stoplight traffic never exceeding 40mph (again cops with lidar). Kinda sucks.
Have you had any tuning with your shift points or what gears do you have?? If you have then that would be a reason why it locks up at a higher speed then it would with factory tuning. With my converter it locks up around 40mph in the D gear. In 3 gear it locks up around 35mph. When the converter locks up and you press the gas slightly it will lunge forward. If the converter is unlocked and you press the gas your rpm's will rise and you really won't be going any faster until you give it more gas.
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