LT1 stall converter help
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Livonia/Plymouth, MI
LT1 stall converter help so I discovered this week that my 4L60E on my 1996 Z28 requires a rebuild, so I figured now would be the best time to get a stall converter. I've been running around for the last 3-4 days trying to get some answers, but it seems every site I post on gives me a different answer.
So here's the deal. This car will be my summer DD, with occasional autocrossing and trips to the strip thrown in. Only engine mods I have now are CAI, true duals, deleted cats, and longtubes. I would like to do a cam in the future as well. My ultimate goal is 300+rwhp and 25 mpg highway.
I was told that I should go with a ~3400 stall, but both shops I spoke to were 110% against that for street use (even though the guys I spoke to that recommended a 3400 have them in their street cars). The most recent person I spoke to recommended no higher than 2500. He also said that with a 3400, I could pretty much forget about autocrossing. He said I should go with a Corvette torque converter (stall ~2000), but I was also told that really wouldn't be much of an upgrade.
HELP!!!!!!!! Thanks a bunch
So here's the deal. This car will be my summer DD, with occasional autocrossing and trips to the strip thrown in. Only engine mods I have now are CAI, true duals, deleted cats, and longtubes. I would like to do a cam in the future as well. My ultimate goal is 300+rwhp and 25 mpg highway.
I was told that I should go with a ~3400 stall, but both shops I spoke to were 110% against that for street use (even though the guys I spoke to that recommended a 3400 have them in their street cars). The most recent person I spoke to recommended no higher than 2500. He also said that with a 3400, I could pretty much forget about autocrossing. He said I should go with a Corvette torque converter (stall ~2000), but I was also told that really wouldn't be much of an upgrade.
HELP!!!!!!!! Thanks a bunch
You want fuel eco and auto cross, thats why they are saying that. Auto cross with an auto is always hard. your going to need some help with shift points other wise you are going to be constantly having to wheel on it when it down shifts. you may want to look at a manual valve body for that thing. as far as stall, I have a 2000 and it's not enough for my 383. If you go 2500 you can do that on a decent restalled stock converter and not spend all that much to see if it is going to be a problem when you auto cross. Anything more your just going to be getting wheel spin on an autocross track because your always going to be on and off the stall. torque converters are torque magnifiers so it is going to send a shock to the drive train when you go from braking to back on the gas and then wheel spin. I'd say stay around 2200 the peak torque on these things is right at 2400 to 3000 depending on mods and mild cam. at 3000 stall you will be sideways alot in my opinion. see if any one else chimes in here
10 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,630
Likes: 28
2500 stall is a complete waste of time, and your car will be a turd at the 1/4 mile track. Mileage won't be affected too much by a stall unless it is crazy high rpm and/or very loose. Some of those converters are tight enough that you never even know they are there until you romp on the gas. Your car will be a compromise if you are trying to do these 3 things:
Autocross
Max mileage
Drag racing
I guess you need to pick the area that interests you the most and choose the converter for that area.
Autocross
Max mileage
Drag racing
I guess you need to pick the area that interests you the most and choose the converter for that area.
