Pulling tranny tommarow for converter install
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Front seal will be fine, let it be. Also, lube the nose of the converter where it plugs into the back of the crank. Make sure the pilot in the rear of the crank is clean and smooth. You dont want any binding here. Typically, when I do oil changes, I will remove the trans bellhousing inspection cover and spray some white lithium in an aresol up at the converter nub to keep some grease there. Do not pack it with grease, just a light coat of wheel bearing grease or something similar.
Got the tranny in today and everything bolted up and back together to spec. I measured with a feeler gauge and I got .245 to wedge between the stall and flex plate. So I put one of the .060 machined washers in wich got me to .185 gap and from the install instructions anything under .187 is fine so I left it at that. I drove it about 45 miles and than I had to do it. I revved it up to 2500 easily and launch it and the tires went up in smoke like never before lol. I havent tryed to stall it up all the way yet, but is it sposed to footbrake to 2500 like that? I think it will go further if I try. Anyways everything went good and holly **** this thing is fast now.
Thanks guys. HOLLLY CRAP lol. This thing is crazy. Completely different car. I can stall it up to about 3000 rpm and the tires don't stand a chance lol. Im going to get some nitto 275 nitto dr's, but I still don't know if those will hook at all.
can someone explain the spacer thing to me a little more in depth? I put a circle d 3200 in about 1500 miles ago without any spacers. I'm just trying to understand where you space it out at. Could this maybe be the cause of the drivetrain slack I think I'm feeling? The car also has the TCI flexplate if that matters.
Sorry to hijack btw.
Sorry to hijack btw.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Spacing wont cause drivetrain slack. Check the "torque converter installations" thread in the stickys at the top of this section. Its all explained there.
you dont have to pull it out. Take ur starter off and get in there and take ur converter to flywheel bolts outand push the converter all the way back into the tranny, you will have to take the bottom cap off and push the converter back with a flathead screwdriver. Than use a feeler gauge or some drill bits to put between the flywheel and converter mounting pad. If it is more than 3/16 or .187 than you are saposed to shim it with a washer on each bolt. The washers have to be machined. Chris at circle d sent me 6 washers for free. you put the washer in between the flywheel and the converter and than stick your bolt through and tightin it down. If you don't have more than a 3/16 gap than don't worry about it.
Oh and I moniturd my tranny temps with a scanner while I was driving around town for awhile in stop and go traffic. It was about 60 degrees today and even with stalling it and a cuple burnouts and traffic it never got above 170 degrees. So my temps are looking good so far.
I dont wanna launch any harder lol. It spins for days. It spins tell I let off. Last night I reved it up and launched it and it was spinning up to 60 tell I let off and let it hook.
And a question for people with a stall. I notice it barely movves when ur just sitting there. I thought it would move a little more, but its probably normal right?









