4L80 Flex plate ?s
4L80 Flex plate ?s Working on my 4L80 converstion and ran into some ?s
I am running a Yank converter and purchased the TCI Flex Plate they told me to and lost the directions.
First Questions:
If I am run the old style 4L80 do I need to run the spacer?
Second Question :
The bolts supplied to conect the Coverter to the flex blate are smaller then the holed in the flex plate. Is this correct? They do fit the threaded holes but it seems like the Converter will be able to move around on the flex plate
Thanks
I am running a Yank converter and purchased the TCI Flex Plate they told me to and lost the directions.
First Questions:
If I am run the old style 4L80 do I need to run the spacer?
Second Question :
The bolts supplied to conect the Coverter to the flex blate are smaller then the holed in the flex plate. Is this correct? They do fit the threaded holes but it seems like the Converter will be able to move around on the flex plate
Thanks
the holes in the flywheel should be a little larger than the bolts, prevents "binding" of the flywheel if their to snug-i preload the converter when i tighten it (for a better word) looking at the back of the block, i lightly rotate the converter clockwise then tighten-just my own thoughts, but picture the engine spinning and the driveline staying still, and if there's slop it will be taken up-i would rather do it ahead of time-hope that makes sence, lol
which TCI flywheel, which converter (long or short snout)
does the FW have the spacer on the back already, and did it come with bolts and a round spacer?
if so, bolt the FW right to the crank (i think the meas from the back of the block to the back of the FW (teeth) is roughly 7/16 for the starter to work
then if you have the short snout (4l80e converter) you need the round spacer to go bet the crank and snout on the converter to fill the .400 gap
the year of the trans doesnt matter
if you lay a straight edge across the snout, and meas down to the "pads" we can tell you if the long or short snout
which TCI flywheel, which converter (long or short snout)
does the FW have the spacer on the back already, and did it come with bolts and a round spacer?
if so, bolt the FW right to the crank (i think the meas from the back of the block to the back of the FW (teeth) is roughly 7/16 for the starter to work
then if you have the short snout (4l80e converter) you need the round spacer to go bet the crank and snout on the converter to fill the .400 gap
the year of the trans doesnt matter
if you lay a straight edge across the snout, and meas down to the "pads" we can tell you if the long or short snout
