Trans temp goes to 340?
07-18-2011, 12:30 AM
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Trans temp goes to 340? So I purchased Autometers Trans temp for my 4l60e that I installed a Yank 3600ss to. I want to make sure the 140k swap tranny stays alive for a bit. I have a B&M cooler atm that I plan to add a fan to it in the next few weeks before I Take it out.
Anyways I did some research and found that a lot get away with running their gauges off the test port on the driver side. Well I went ahead and did so. Tighten it til it was snug. After lettinyg the car warm up I see the gauge rising about 1F every second until maxing the gauge at 340. I turned off the car and checked fluid levels and everything was fine. I then checked the cooler lines and they were bearly warm. Hell the canton valve covers were hotter.
I then started to think the sending unit is the culprit. Like I said I tightened it down until it was snug. I looked at the plug I removed and compared it to the sending unit and wanted to install the sending unit as deep as the plug it had.
So what's going on here? Should I just relocate it to the pan? I want to buy a pan with a plug for one but I'm thinking of just getting a truck pan and have a bung welded to it for it.
Anyways I did some research and found that a lot get away with running their gauges off the test port on the driver side. Well I went ahead and did so. Tighten it til it was snug. After lettinyg the car warm up I see the gauge rising about 1F every second until maxing the gauge at 340. I turned off the car and checked fluid levels and everything was fine. I then checked the cooler lines and they were bearly warm. Hell the canton valve covers were hotter.
I then started to think the sending unit is the culprit. Like I said I tightened it down until it was snug. I looked at the plug I removed and compared it to the sending unit and wanted to install the sending unit as deep as the plug it had.
So what's going on here? Should I just relocate it to the pan? I want to buy a pan with a plug for one but I'm thinking of just getting a truck pan and have a bung welded to it for it.
07-18-2011, 04:36 AM
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Id recommend moving it to the pan so the sensor is actually in the fluid to get the reading. I need to replace mine also. Says 150 on the gauge and via EfiLive its 180. So which one is accurate?? lol who knows and mine is in the pan. Why do you need a bung for anything? You can take the pan off and drill and tap. Thats the way I did mine.Blue Loctite and never had an issue.
07-18-2011, 11:53 AM
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In the last 3 months I have helped at least three guys who have had eerily similar issues. Each and every time it was related to the gauge itself. Either it was not installed (wired) properly or it was simply a bad unit.
Call the manufacturer and see what they have to say once you've checked your wiring. You might try running dedicated power and ground wires directly to the batter for the purpose of testing.....
Call the manufacturer and see what they have to say once you've checked your wiring. You might try running dedicated power and ground wires directly to the batter for the purpose of testing.....
