Hey guys, first off here's my mods

Boltons, 150wet shot, circle d 4c, "built" 4l60e by (local) shop, lots of UMI suspension, wide and skinnies. Just to make it quick.

Anyways, I've been fighting this nightmarish transmission for the 3 1/2 yrs I've owned the car. This is my "6th" 4l60e going straight down the ******* once again. Had warranty work after warranty work done, by 2 different shops. Promising that I'll never have any problem again. Yea right.

Problems I'm having now are these,

- lockup in overdrive shutters moderately when trying to accelerate on the freeway

- low speed, low throttle, and a shift so hard it like I hit a boulder that impacted underneath the center console, sometimes it's multiple hits in a row like that. Then usually clutches slip afterwards.

- all these problems have been intermittent I guess for the most part

- yesterday tha 3-4 clutches began failing completely

- built trans might have 500miles tops

Parts that I can recall in this transmission.

- raybestos Zpak
- beast cage sunshell
- billet planetarys
- billet input and output
- trans go hd-2 shift kit
- new front pump
- ( a piece that looked like a "washer" to me, had 4 notches ground into it for a fluid passage reason?)
- I got a 32k cooler on it lol! With temp gauge( never been over ~170degrees ever.
- sure theres alot more I'm forgetting that's replaced with a simple rebuild.

So anyways what's the deal with this problem prone transmission? Why am I having these problems again and again? Would a sponsor 4l60e solve everything for me?

Everyone I know fbody wise is screaming for me to th400 this car and never look back. But I'm not sure if this is the greatest idea, but I know damn sure it WILL work.

Especially to hold to my 7.1x 1/8mile passes and 1.53 60' launching off the line on spray.

So if anyone here was in my position, what would be your end all answer to this consistent problem I'm having?


Thanks again everyone for who replies!

 

go th400 unless you have 4000$ laying around for a built 4L80

 

Also, the guy who built this transmission is giving me a "the run around" on his warranty. He told me unlimited power, unlimited mileage, for 1yr.

I have a 4 channel 10-bolt with a 3 channel axle on the driver side without the ABS ring. Therefore my ABS lights are on "voiding" my warranty and him touching it. As he claims this is my issue to my problems.... WTF?!

So now I'm back to the drawing boards and need all the help I can get! Last thing I'm going to do is buy a set a Moser axles to stick in the 10-bolt so he will look at since I'll have the abs ring again. Especially since a 9in is in arms reach.

 

I've pondered a 4l80e swap. But that kind of cost is out of the question. And I'm simply tired of anything that has "4L" in it's name period.

What's the average cost of a TH400 swap? I kno it can vary but, I want a realistic price to know what Im up against financially to get this car back alive.

 

Also, of I do the th400 swap. Will I be cruising along at like 4,000rpms?? Will the converter not lockup, and will I have to gas the heck out of it to get it to pull around town?

 

Sponsor/Member replies, PM's, emails, even phone calls will be taken with great appreciation. I'm in serious need of help and honestly don't know where to turn at this point.

 

what do you have for gears? I picked up my th400 built for 1500hp for $950 +$1000 for a good converter. Since your spraying, you should have a fairly tight converter which shouldnt be bad around town and will be very efficient up top.

 

I'm running 3.42's at the moment, waiting for them to literally break before I stick a 3.73 in it and be in the same situation rearend wise again lol. But a 9in will be under the car shortly. I'm kind of just seeing for myself what a 10-bolt will hold up to.

And I agree with a tight converter. It would help out. Thanks. And btw that's a deal to me on a trans holding that kind of power for cost. +1

 

A not to fancy 4L80E will live at your power level. I would probably suggest a billet input shaft because of the nitrous. The transmission itself would be less than $3k shipped. You would still have converter, crossmember, and driveline costs, but you would have all these with any conversion.
You would still have overdrive and lockup with the 4L80E.
Don't let the "4L" at the beginning confuse you, it has nothing in common with a 4L60E, and almost everything in common with a TH400.

 

I love the idea of even a 4L60e holding the power and lasting, aswell as a 4L80e. But the 80e is expensive, and I'm not sure if I want to go through the hassle of having it wired in and like I've read in stickies.. They seem almost "rigged" up to work correctly, then seems most have "bugs" after install.

I agree they will hold up to the power level I have now, and I'm not trying to steer the idea away necessarily.

My power level is going to increase. I'm running on a 135k stock LS1. And thats not goin to cut it..

My plan is acquiring a 6.0 and doing a nice build with it.

But this will never happen if I can't find a transmission to ever hold anything over stock power....

 

Also, why is my 4L60e acting like its literally going to detonate itself?

Are there any non-electronic OD transmissions that can hold up? I also was told it's my tune and other things causing this problem? But I've had a Frost tune N/A and a full on Dynotune about a week ago for nitrous and no codes have shown up..

Sorry for all the questions. I'm just needing answers and a solution.

 

There is no reason at your current power level that a well built 60e won't work. And if any builder says what your builder did about "unlimited power, unlimited mileage" you should call bullshit and find someone who is capable of building that unit right. I have seen more than my share of grenaded 60e's that were supposedly "built" but couldn't handle a 100 shot of nitrous on an otherwise stock car with a sticky tire.

A well built 60e will last in a car just like yours for some time. But eventually it will need to be freshened up. How long it lasts depends on driving habits, race track laps, power adders and so on... but most importantly your transmission tune unless you go full manual which I do not recommend. But, they can and do take a punishment if they are built properly. I know because I have them out there taking it, and have for years.

Jake is correct, a well built 80e is the best alternative to what you have, I have install many of those units and they are living very well in big power stroker / power adder combinations. But, like you said it is an expensive proposition.

So, it always boils down to budget vs. expectations. Meaning, if you are tired of tranny failures and you don't have the money to build a nice 80e and install it you need to work with someone who can and will build you a very nice 60e. But, even that is not cheap for what you are trying to do... again, budget vs. expectation.

Give me a call. I will discuss your options in great detail and help you make the right decision for your car. Oh, and to answer your question about a TH400 and lock-up... Th400's were never build with the lock-up feature. So, yes with a little tire, a big converter and some gear in the back the engine will run in the 2,500 - 3,600 rpm range at highway speeds. That's relative to the given combination though.

Hope that helps.

 

I think a properly built 4L60E would work for you but it would cost as much or more than the 4L80E. It sounds as if your builders don't have the talent to get it right.
A 4L80E swap is relatively simple in a 4th Gen F body, the 411 PCM is easy to work with.
Most of the "issues" I deal with are installer or tuning error. Usually easy fixes.

 

Thanks guys. Gilbert you will most likely hear from me if your willing to talk on the phone. That goes far to me.

After all the slipping, and having to keep my car in D instead of OD to make it to town on a regular basis, along with having to manually shift at times(punch it in 2nd til 60mph so it'll go into OD when I click up) that a TH400 won't be too bad after all. I guess I can always play with gear ratios til I find the one I like. Being 9in gears are quick to interchange.

I also plan on running a transbrake with either swap I go with because, why not right!

Edit: Can I run a lock-up switch on a th400? Or is there absolutely no way for it to lockup?

 

If you go with a trans brake it'll take a nasty 60e to manage the hit. Just food for though. It'll take it, but it has to have good shafts front and back. A 400 will take it with a few minor upgrades. An 80e will at least need an input shaft if you go with a brake.

And unfortunately the 400 simply does not have the hydraulic circuitry for the converter lock up feature... it ain't gonna happen buddy.

g

 

Thanks and that's fine that it won't lock up. Guess I'll just buy a trailer to pull it on for the longer hauls. Beech Bend in KY is approx 125 miles from me(where the Holley LSFest is). And I love going there. But as my car is building more and more power a trailer is cheap insurance for a trip home also.