View Poll Results: Which one guys for street and strip is beeesssssssst
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High Stall TC
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,321
Likes: 0
From: Palos Hills, IL
ok so if i bought either one of these what will i need to go with it on my 3.23's...
Tranny Cooler?
Tuning?
Shift-Kit?
Drag tires?
for the high stall T/C if i just had Wet and Dry tires....woudl it be ok with the higher stall TC?
Tranny Cooler?
Tuning?
Shift-Kit?
Drag tires?
for the high stall T/C if i just had Wet and Dry tires....woudl it be ok with the higher stall TC?
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,065
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Tranny Cooler?
Tuning?
Shift-Kit?
Drag tires?
YES ^^
don't even think of driving around with a high stall and street tires, you'll kill yourself, even with nitto's at 25psihot, i find the ASR coming on esp if i tip in too much on corners (taking off) or if i want to flog it.
big converters are pretty sketchy in the rain if you tip in too much even with nittos that are fresh.
Tuning?
Shift-Kit?
Drag tires?
YES ^^
don't even think of driving around with a high stall and street tires, you'll kill yourself, even with nitto's at 25psihot, i find the ASR coming on esp if i tip in too much on corners (taking off) or if i want to flog it.
big converters are pretty sketchy in the rain if you tip in too much even with nittos that are fresh.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,402
Likes: 1
From: CT,
The higher stall is only as bad as you make it to be by the control of the gas pedal, I have a TCI3800 stall with 342s and nittos and i have no problems driving anywhere even in the rain, you just cant be an 16 year old animal always looking to show off and go fast when the roads dont provide the right conditions.
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,065
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
not only that but you just gotta be real careful in the transitory (n00b) period when you get the verter, if your going around a corner locked up at 45 and its wet out, then naturally your gonna gas it a little if you have to make an evasive maneuver. with a new verter you might just tip in a little more than you are used to, and flash the converter, fortunately the first time this happened to me the asr pulled the rear end back around to my suprise.
i spose if your used to driving in northern weather no biggie, but its dry most of the year down here if we see ice once every few years in a spot we're lucky.
i spose if your used to driving in northern weather no biggie, but its dry most of the year down here if we see ice once every few years in a spot we're lucky.
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TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,065
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
efilive calls it 1 2 3 4, so i just usually go by that terminology, its less confusing. obviously camaro drivers understand 3, and so do t/a drivers, and obviously camaro drivers understand 4 its the last drive gear and so do t/a drivers. and efilive logs it that way, so in the end less confusion when i'm logging and saying stuff.
makes sense to me, dunno why they just didn't put it down that way on the shifter? the ecu doesn't say OD
makes sense to me, dunno why they just didn't put it down that way on the shifter? the ecu doesn't say OD
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
From: Hilton Head. SC
hey while we are on the topic,
What happens with the higher stall? Is there an initial Mushy Pedal ever, or just head snapping jolts? What is this about Hp loss with TC..or am I totally off? And what suspension mods would you recommend with a daily street driver with a 3200 Vig?
What happens with the higher stall? Is there an initial Mushy Pedal ever, or just head snapping jolts? What is this about Hp loss with TC..or am I totally off? And what suspension mods would you recommend with a daily street driver with a 3200 Vig?
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,065
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
well i see 2000-3000 of "looseness" until lockup (30-40mph). That means during the time it takes to take off without leaving rubber, the car is holding 2000-3000rpm (depending on how much throttle) and it feels like the trans is slipping at first.
once the car locks up, it drops to 1000rpm and the car kinda puts.
Don't worry about hp on the A4. it's all about the 1/4 mile times. A stall on an A4 makes it a muscle car/strip car. Go to the track, get a #. M6 folks are the ones that are dyno queens
no excuse with a stalled a4. You'll find it takes a helluva lot less power than you think to pull some mad 1/4 mile times.
I suggest: Not lowering the car, Buying spare rims (2) and throwing ET slicks on, Getting a Line lock (for the et's), Running 555R Drag radials on the street so you don't die, lca, panhard bar. Almost everything you do to add handling will almost always (but not always) reduce your drag potential.
Ie those 60K old shocks may be better off than brand new bilsteins.
I doubt SFC's and STB do any good on drag racing, but add weight. Weight = evil
you are somewhat correct that the torque converter is like a light switch, you mash it, it lights up the tires, you can baby it and drive it pretty normally, but the car will be loud as hell until you reach lockup do to the loose-ness.
once the car locks up, it drops to 1000rpm and the car kinda puts.
Don't worry about hp on the A4. it's all about the 1/4 mile times. A stall on an A4 makes it a muscle car/strip car. Go to the track, get a #. M6 folks are the ones that are dyno queens
no excuse with a stalled a4. You'll find it takes a helluva lot less power than you think to pull some mad 1/4 mile times. I suggest: Not lowering the car, Buying spare rims (2) and throwing ET slicks on, Getting a Line lock (for the et's), Running 555R Drag radials on the street so you don't die, lca, panhard bar. Almost everything you do to add handling will almost always (but not always) reduce your drag potential.
Ie those 60K old shocks may be better off than brand new bilsteins.
I doubt SFC's and STB do any good on drag racing, but add weight. Weight = evil
you are somewhat correct that the torque converter is like a light switch, you mash it, it lights up the tires, you can baby it and drive it pretty normally, but the car will be loud as hell until you reach lockup do to the loose-ness.
Originally Posted by samz28
well i see 2000-3000 of "looseness" until lockup (30-40mph). That means during the time it takes to take off without leaving rubber, the car is holding 2000-3000rpm (depending on how much throttle) and it feels like the trans is slipping at first.
once the car locks up, it drops to 1000rpm and the car kinda puts.
Don't worry about hp on the A4. it's all about the 1/4 mile times. A stall on an A4 makes it a muscle car/strip car. Go to the track, get a #. M6 folks are the ones that are dyno queens no excuse with a stalled a4. You'll find it takes a helluva lot less power than you think to pull some mad 1/4 mile times.
I suggest: Not lowering the car, Buying spare rims (2) and throwing ET slicks on, Getting a Line lock (for the et's), Running 555R Drag radials on the street so you don't die, lca, panhard bar. Almost everything you do to add handling will almost always (but not always) reduce your drag potential.
Ie those 60K old shocks may be better off than brand new bilsteins.
I doubt SFC's and STB do any good on drag racing, but add weight. Weight = evil
you are somewhat correct that the torque converter is like a light switch, you mash it, it lights up the tires, you can baby it and drive it pretty normally, but the car will be loud as hell until you reach lockup do to the loose-ness.
once the car locks up, it drops to 1000rpm and the car kinda puts.
Don't worry about hp on the A4. it's all about the 1/4 mile times. A stall on an A4 makes it a muscle car/strip car. Go to the track, get a #. M6 folks are the ones that are dyno queens
no excuse with a stalled a4. You'll find it takes a helluva lot less power than you think to pull some mad 1/4 mile times. I suggest: Not lowering the car, Buying spare rims (2) and throwing ET slicks on, Getting a Line lock (for the et's), Running 555R Drag radials on the street so you don't die, lca, panhard bar. Almost everything you do to add handling will almost always (but not always) reduce your drag potential.
Ie those 60K old shocks may be better off than brand new bilsteins.
I doubt SFC's and STB do any good on drag racing, but add weight. Weight = evil
you are somewhat correct that the torque converter is like a light switch, you mash it, it lights up the tires, you can baby it and drive it pretty normally, but the car will be loud as hell until you reach lockup do to the loose-ness.
