Fresh rebuilt 4l60e question
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,322
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
They look pretty good to me. I assume then that the teflon seals looked good too? (No wear or tears.) Have you assembled the input drum and reverse drum into an upside down pump for an air test yet? (I have trouble testing just the reverse drum because the square hole doesn't seal well.)
Ok just got done air testing it and this is what i have. When i apply air to the hole in front of my finger the clutches apply but then air starts coming out the hole surrounded by red. So is this my problem? And this means i need stator shaft seals correct??
Last edited by 98LS1driver; Jun 8, 2012 at 01:21 PM.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,322
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Sorry, I don't have all this memorized and cannot test it myself right this minute. That certainly is the reverse feed hole. There will be some leakage in the reverse drum area because it is designed to bleed air and then seal up with fluid.
HELP.
I know there are much more experienced people on this forum who might have the answer for you.
HELP.
I know there are much more experienced people on this forum who might have the answer for you.
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Verdad Gallardo Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,322
Likes: 528
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Ok, I just tried it using nearly new 2010 parts from a working trans.
While I hear a lot of air leakage on the reverse port, I only get a hint of air coming out of the "red" hole you marked; I can hear and feel the clunk of the reverse clutch engaging. I notice that a checkball on the left side of the pump closes; so that is important too. I suspect I hear a lot of air leakage because my stator rings were overly resized - they will enlarge over the next few hours and seal better then.
I cannot visualize the internals well enough to guess why a lot or air is coming out of your "red" hole, but it doesn't do it on my working trans. Figure that out and you should have it solved.
While I hear a lot of air leakage on the reverse port, I only get a hint of air coming out of the "red" hole you marked; I can hear and feel the clunk of the reverse clutch engaging. I notice that a checkball on the left side of the pump closes; so that is important too. I suspect I hear a lot of air leakage because my stator rings were overly resized - they will enlarge over the next few hours and seal better then.
I cannot visualize the internals well enough to guess why a lot or air is coming out of your "red" hole, but it doesn't do it on my working trans. Figure that out and you should have it solved.
Ok, I just tried it using nearly new 2010 parts from a working trans.
While I hear a lot of air leakage on the reverse port, I only get a hint of air coming out of the "red" hole you marked; I can hear and feel the clunk of the reverse clutch engaging. I notice that a checkball on the left side of the pump closes; so that is important too. I suspect I hear a lot of air leakage because my stator rings were overly resized - they will enlarge over the next few hours and seal better then.
I cannot visualize the internals well enough to guess why a lot or air is coming out of your "red" hole, but it doesn't do it on my working trans. Figure that out and you should have it solved.
While I hear a lot of air leakage on the reverse port, I only get a hint of air coming out of the "red" hole you marked; I can hear and feel the clunk of the reverse clutch engaging. I notice that a checkball on the left side of the pump closes; so that is important too. I suspect I hear a lot of air leakage because my stator rings were overly resized - they will enlarge over the next few hours and seal better then.
I cannot visualize the internals well enough to guess why a lot or air is coming out of your "red" hole, but it doesn't do it on my working trans. Figure that out and you should have it solved.
Teching In
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 47
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i am no proficient in this method of diagnosis, so in effort to not mislead you, i cant reflect my opinion on your findings. however, you should be able to see and/or feel if those rings are recessed into the ring groove. if those teflon rings were not doing their job, you would see scarring in the reverse drum between the two bushings. My assessment from your pictures indicates this is not the case.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,322
Likes: 528
From: Ann Arbor, MI
I literally only had 1 minute to play with trans parts today, but it seems your "red" port is tied to the boost valve. Check that you have the boost valve assembled correctly and that the boost valve is a snug fit in its sleeve. (E.g. the boost valve isn't in upside down and that you don't have a .450 boost valve in a .500 sleeve.)
I will experiment more tomorrow.
I will experiment more tomorrow.
I literally only had 1 minute to play with trans parts today, but it seems your "red" port is tied to the boost valve. Check that you have the boost valve assembled correctly and that the boost valve is a snug fit in its sleeve. (E.g. the boost valve isn't in upside down and that you don't have a .450 boost valve in a .500 sleeve.)
I will experiment more tomorrow.
I will experiment more tomorrow.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,322
Likes: 528
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,322
Likes: 528
From: Ann Arbor, MI
(Pages 29, 76A, 76B and 77)
The "red" hole is the torque signal which controls the line pressure. It goes only to the bottom of the boost valve and NO WHERE else in the pump. As you may know, the reverse line goes to the middle of the boost valve. Therefore, as I see it, the only way reverse pressure could leak out of the torque signal is if there is a major leak around the boost valve. I don't understand how this could suddenly start though.
You might consider the Sonnax .490 boost valve with o-rings,
part #77898E-K ($24).
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,322
Likes: 528
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Ok, understood. Seems you are so close though.
I guess I can then finish assembling the trans I've had apart for a while trying to help.
Good luck! And let us know if the trans shop identifies the problem.
I guess I can then finish assembling the trans I've had apart for a while trying to help.
Good luck! And let us know if the trans shop identifies the problem.
