samz28

info on the derale pan? Where how much? does it have the extended pickup piece?

Colonel

The first thing I'd do is find out why the coolant temps are seeing 225. That is NOT normal.

I'd also run the tranny cooler AFTER the radiator.

I have had no troubles keeping the engine coolant and tranny (4L60-E) below ~210 degrees running 5-6 passes literally back to back with no one else holding me up in the staging lanes in cooler weather. Even in 85 degree weather a few passes back to back haven't been any trouble. This was running low 10s in the 1/4 with a 422ci engine. Stock radiator, stock tranny pan, 24K tranny cooler, 160 thermo with fan settings.

samz28

All my coolant/oil/etc all new with the mods just went on.

My temps at freeeway speeds are 180F so the tuner must have modded the fans.

I am getting hptuners soon. I have found summit have a 9x13 160F fan'd trans cooler. i might put that on.

It was a 1.5hrs drive to the track and str8 to running (5 minute cooldown for tech/signin).

Maybe those trailers are a good idea after all. How do you have your fans programmed colonel?

maybe the TCI &brake stand burnouts = high temps.

Colonel

There's nothing wrong with a TCI converter. That's not your problem. I ran one for a time with no problems. And I do hellacious burnouts!

I'll have to check my files to see my exact fan settings (it's on another computer that I don't have handy.)

z28hokie

Not 100% sure on normal price. I traded stuff for mine...
I want to say $150 ish...
I know Jegs & Summit sell it...so that's probably the best place to find the cost.

It doesnt need an extended pickup...because of the cooling tubes the pickup actually sits normally...

samz28

colonel please do. And were you doing brake stand burnouts or line lock burnouts? Would it be safe to say a 4500rpm "2" burnout with the brakes may be more tortuos than with a line lock?

(i have a line lock, and fan slp switch waiting to install).

btw what do you suggest for placement of both the safety/linelock and fan switch? Do folks just ghetto make something or is there a good place for it? I don't use the ashtray i was thinking bout there but i want to be sure no ******** goes "whats this" and flips the line lock on or leaves my fans on. Pics would be helpful and part #'s.

We'll get to the bottom of this.. I'm sure im not the only one with this hot summer heat problem.

I'm not sold on the +3qt pan. More fluid will heat up, and require more time to dissipate. Thats a known fact.

The bigger cooler with a fan would a big plus too if you tied it into fan #1 or a switch.
The newest addition to B&M's line of Super Cooler transmission and engine coolers is the Hi-Tek cooling system. Fitted with a high-quality, 12-volt electric fan, these coolers can handle tough cooling jobs. They include a thermal switch to activate the fan when the fluid temperature reaches 160°F. Can be used for racing, RV and street performance.
$209 for Hi-Tek 13-1/2'' x 9'' Cooler w/9-1/2'' . I think i'll go look around for a cheaper fan and try to make one myself..

Stone0fFire

i notice only those who do not own the deep pans say this.
those who actually own them claim trans temp drops of 15-20deg.

the former is speculation,
the latter is observation.
which one is the known fact?

samz28

so you say once your trans temps get hot, it does not take longer to cool? got any logs of trans temps? would like to see this.

i'm all for it with some empirical data that shows it works in a drag race event/hotlapping(less than 5 minutes between runs)/warm temps(80+).

just don't want to spend the $$ if it is not going to help this situation.

BADFNZ

iTrader: (19)

I have a PT4000, a B&M 19k cooler, and a manual fan switch. My low speed fan is on while my car is off, and my high speed is on while my car is running unless I'm making a pass. The highest I've seen my tranny temp is a hair over 180.

samz28

okay i'll go put my manual fan switch on. Anyone got any docs on the slp one? I canfigure out the fan part but where do you string the switch into the cabin most easily? tnx

Stone0fFire

first, it will take longer to get hot.
secondly, consider where exactly the fluid will heat up.
the fluid in the trans will heat,
but the fluid in the trans pan will cool.
the fluid in the line and in the cooler, will obviously cool.
no matter how many coolers or how deep of a pan you run,
how much extra fluid you add,
only the fluid in the trans will heat up.
it all doesnt get hot at once.

as long as you add more fluid outside of wherever it heats up,
you get more fluid outside cooling compared to the fluid you'd have cooking inside anyway.

am i missing something?
is GM, TCI, and 4L60-E.com trying to sell us something harmful because we think it will benefit us?
i would believe it if it were SLP, but TCI's been good so far.

DeepBlueZ

i agree....i know my tranny runs about 10 degrees cooler now...

granted its true that more fluid takes longer to cool but if it doesn't get to as high a temperature to begin with....who cares????

supersp0rt

i had a problem last year of not being able to keep my trans cool. it wanted to run at 195F city driving once warmed up. after trying to figure out a solution and talking to some people on here, i went ahead and put another 24k b&m cooler on. the difference so far? 15F city driving. this is behind the air dam and without a scoop thus far. im in the process of attempting to rig a scoop up and hope to never see temps over 175F again.

Stone0fFire

another B&M cooler?
you running them in series?
im very interested in this idea.

supersp0rt

yep...back-to-back...didnt have a great deal of room to work with. working well so far, but i think once i get an air dam on it, it will be quite a bit better.

Jip99z

iTrader: (1)

Try getting a bigger trans cooler. I got the biggest one summit sells and running back to back I dont see anything close to 200. It usually stays around 180-190 in the texas heat. JP