Sail Hatan

Oh well. Is it possible that the converter just pushed the tranny over the edge? Or is it something he did? Either way the bill is on me.

LS-ONE_DAY

Could be both really. Depends on the state of the flexplate/transmission before. It could have already been on it's way out and the installation issues could have done it in. If it was setup properly on a healthy trans and flexplate then it should have been fine.

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

I'd tend to go with the install error. Even if the tranny was on the way out it wouldn't have given out like that it would have taken a little abuse first. Not having the converter properly spacer will kill any tranny a new one may have lasted a little longer but not much if any. Now I'd speak with Greg and talk about the converter you may need to have it cleaned if metal got into it the last thing you want is to get a new tranny and then have it explode because of metal in the converter. Also if money is really right used 4l60es are cheap even a stock rebuild with a core is under 1k

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

I take it your buddy has never do e this before. Sounds like he never checked the measurements before just throwing it together. Is he replacing/rebuilding your transmission??

mrvedit

With luck the damage to the trans might be minor - a scratched pump rotor - and not require a complete rebuild and converter cleaning. Sounds like the trans will have to be removed and at least the pump removed and opened up to access the damage. Also check the pan and oil for metal shavings.
This of course assumes our assessment that the converter did not fully engage into the pump.

98Subi

upon reading this you will find I am a newbie

What exactly is the deal with the gap/spacing of the converter? I have a TCI 3000 that I am replacing for a Circle D in a few days. When I put the TCI in I remeber seeing something about the "gap" everyone is talking about but not really being a mechanic I didn't quite know what they were talking about. I filled the converter up with fluid, gently placed it on the input shaft and spun it a few times like the instructions said. Now I know the lock up clutch is done, other wise the thing works fine. Just wondering for future reference. Mike.

Sail Hatan

i think its something like an 1/8 inch?

Sail Hatan

I got a quote for 1500 for a rebuild from our local race trans shop. maybe ill ask them to assess the damage first.

Sail Hatan

he is not. hes not just some kid, which is why im suprised. he works for the state as a diesel mechanic, and has a lift in his garage and makes a killing doing side work. he has built a fair shate of lsx vehicles, along with my lift in my truck, my girlfriends jeep work, and any other problem ive ever had. i actually plan on using hiim for my 6.0. which is why it would strike me odd that he would have thrown this together wrong.

today ill pick the car up, and first pull a line and see if the pump is working.

mrvedit

On my LS2 engine, I first measured the distance between the back of the block (where it mates to the trans) and the back of the flexplate. It was 7/8" inch.
Next, with my converter fully installed, I placed a straight edge over the bell housing and then measured the distance to the converter's mounting pads. It was 1-1/16".
Therefore, 1-1/16" minus 7/8" gives me a 3/16" gap between the flexplate and the converter. I remember (sponsor) Jake saying to ensure that gap is bewteen 1/16" and 3/16".
Since I aim for 1/8", I therefore went into my bin of Grade 8 washers and with calipers selected three of the same thickness (and therefore weight). They were 0.094 which would bring my gap just a hair under 1/8".
When bolting up the converter, I therefore placed one washer between each converter's pad and the flexplate. This does make this task a bit trickier - if you tighten the 1st bolt too much, you won't be able to fit the washer on the next bolt. If you keep the bolt too loose, it will hit bind into the block when you turn the crank.

NOTE: One advantage of pre-measuring it that it helps ensure there really is a gap and that the converter is fully installed into the trans and pump.

Alternate method: Say you bolted up the trans and forgot to pre-measure. Been there, done that. I then take a few washers and wrap masking tape around them so that I have a 3/16" thick washer. If I can fit that between a converter pad and the flexplate, I know the gap is too big. I then measure further and determine how many matched-thickness washers are needed to bring the gap close to 1/8".
With TCI and Yank converters, I have always used exactly one washer. With a stock converter, none is needed.

Remember to use Locktite Red on the converter bolts.

Sail Hatan

Ok I dropped the car off at the tranny shop yesterday. Had it beefed up a bit. Got to
Reuse the converter. They said all the clutches were fried. Good news is its already done. Good guys.

mrvedit

Are you saying that the car drives fine now?
It just seems unlikely that the forward and reverse clutches would go out at the same time.
I sincerely hope I (we?) were wrong about blaming the converter; fingers are crossed.

Sail Hatan

Apparently it drives now. I had the whole tranny rebuild and beefed up. I pick it up in a few hours.

ramairetransam

iTrader: (18)

im in to see how this turns out

Sail Hatan

Ok, just picked the car up. It's definitely faster. Very loose, gunna take some getting used to. Still currently driving it for the first time.