Car not moving after 4l80e install
Car not moving after 4l80e install I just finished installing my Jakes Performance 4l80e today and the trans seems to be acting strange to me. The car will creep forward after reving it up to about 3k then rolls back when i let off the gas (its in the driveway with slight angle). it does not appear to be changing gears when i manually move the shifter, seems to be in neutral maybe? The trans has a brake and a circle d 3500. I followed jakes advice when first starting it: 1/2 qt in stall, 4qt in pan, fire up engine, shift into each gear before driving the car, install 4 more quarts and drive. I didnt get to the drive part. the car also had 24x system installed, the tuner did a segment swap, could it be in the tune? trans brake is hooked up properly and does not make any differences when engaged.
any help will be appreciated, none of the shops are open today for me to ask what they think.
any help will be appreciated, none of the shops are open today for me to ask what they think.
As far as the fluid goes, how many quarts are needed for this transmission? The 4L80E dry fill is 13.5 quarts. 7.7 quarts for just a pan drop. I have 9 in there now, should I put more and assume this trans will require a dry fill? I think they run the transmissions prior to shipping so will that be considered a dry fill?
Put 15 quarts and it's spitting fluid out somewhere and not working still. I think it's coming out from the breather? Can't see it though. Giving up for night. Any Other suggestions?
If its full and not moving, you probably broke the pump by not installing the torque converter correctly. Even without power, forward (2) and reverse will work on the 4l.
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and never use the trans bolts to pull the trans onto the locating pins.put the car on level ground and check the level.
and never use the trans bolts to pull the trans onto the locating pins.put the car on level ground and check the level.
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if you put 15 qts in, and a stock pan, its over filled by close to 2 qts (dry trans and stock converter 13.5 qts)
when you installed it, was there a small gap bet converter pads and flywheel-if so you prob didnt hurt the pump
do you have a correct dip stick
when you installed it, was there a small gap bet converter pads and flywheel-if so you prob didnt hurt the pump
do you have a correct dip stick
Sounds like it has more than enough fluid. If you had a gap between the flexplate and trans then the pump is probably good. The 4L80 is much more forgiving than the 4L60 for converter clearance. If you verify it has enough fluid and the converter was stabbed all the way in, then you can check for cooler flow or main line pressure to verify the pump is working.
Chris
Chris
Dipstick is correct. I believe it is overfilled because the torque converter is empty because the pump is not working. The cooling lines are flowing but I'm not sure of the main line pressure. I'm about to unbolt the converter and see how much space is in between them.
there was an additional 1/4" gap between the spacers (provided with the stall) and the converter once i loosened up the bolts and pulled it away from the flexplate. I installed another washer all three bolts to assure there was only 1/8" gap when tightened down like in the video. the trans is still acting the same. The torque converter is still empty, i checked by rotating it before and after i did all this, light and no swashing noises.
any other ideas? Did it break the trans, stall or could it have something to do with the trans brake?
any other ideas? Did it break the trans, stall or could it have something to do with the trans brake?
Sounds like it is all the way into the pump. But how do you know the converter is empty?
Pull a cooler line off and start it up for a few seconds. That will let you know if the pump is working. Make sure to put it into a bucket to avoid a mess.
Chris
Pull a cooler line off and start it up for a few seconds. That will let you know if the pump is working. Make sure to put it into a bucket to avoid a mess.
Chris
I did that and it was flowing. When I unbolted the converter I spun it around, back and forth and it felt as it did when I installed it with half a quart in it. There is no fluid sound when I move it either.
I'll give you a call tomorrow and talk about it.
I'll give you a call tomorrow and talk about it.
could be the tune, or shifter adjust-i though if you pulled the plug (power)
it perverts to having 2nd and rev-not sure if thats a good way to ck anything
best to contact Jakeshoe for advice, he should be able to guide you thru it
it perverts to having 2nd and rev-not sure if thats a good way to ck anything
best to contact Jakeshoe for advice, he should be able to guide you thru it
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 58
Likes: 2
You might want to call the company who built your unit. Ask for that 19yrs. old seasoned builder (elitze) who probably built your unit and is always jumping in any 4l80 related post when there is something to sell.
The tune looked good. It has power going to it, not sure if it's getting the correct PCM grounds yet though. I think it reverts to 3rd when there is no power/ pressure? I jacked up the rear and the tires spun after giving it some gas like it might have been in 3rd. When I gave it more gas it spun faster.
I'm about to check the pressure and command/view some stuff with a tech II.
I'm about to check the pressure and command/view some stuff with a tech II.
So the tech II revealed that the silinoids were operating normally with the proper duty cycle amperage and all then in each gear the only problem was the pressure. The pressure at idle in park (850rpm) was 15psi, should be above 35psi. Reverse and neural was the same, should be a lot higher. Drive went down 5psi and that was the only change when shifting. While in drive we were able to get the psi up to 35psi after reving the motor to around 2k, it then went back down to 10psi.
We were able to command the solenoids in each gear decreasing the amps which should increase line pressure and the other way around when increasing it, there was no change in pressure.
So it's low line pressure with no apparent electrical problems. What's the next step?
We were able to command the solenoids in each gear decreasing the amps which should increase line pressure and the other way around when increasing it, there was no change in pressure.
So it's low line pressure with no apparent electrical problems. What's the next step?