Transgo 4L60E HD3 kit help
Transgo 4L60E HD3 kit help I am looking to rebuild my 4L60E and would like to also get rid of the electronics and make it full manual shift and use a B&M megashifter.
http://transgoonline.com/products.ph...dcountview=Yes
I am looking into the Monster in a Box kit for the rebuild
http://www.monstertrans.com/store/pr...93%252d97.html
My question is, if I do the transgo HD3 kit, what makes it shift. I know it uses a 46-MOD (Vacuum controlled line pressure kit ). But does it use the solenoids to shift? Because the monster in a box comes with all new solenoids, and if I don't need them then I might be able to save some money on the kit.
Anyone here with any experience with these kits?
http://transgoonline.com/products.ph...dcountview=Yes
I am looking into the Monster in a Box kit for the rebuild
http://www.monstertrans.com/store/pr...93%252d97.html
My question is, if I do the transgo HD3 kit, what makes it shift. I know it uses a 46-MOD (Vacuum controlled line pressure kit ). But does it use the solenoids to shift? Because the monster in a box comes with all new solenoids, and if I don't need them then I might be able to save some money on the kit.
Anyone here with any experience with these kits?
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Why do you want to go manual? Going manual is almost guaranteed to increase your ET times at the track. I could see going manual for road course racing.
IMO, there are better rebuild kits available. For one thing they don't detail what the 3-4 clutch setup is. Many (most?) premium builders have now switched to the Sonnax Smart Shell instead of The Beast.
For example, I have frequently recommended TruTechTrans and everyone using them has been very happy with them:
http://www.trutechtrans.com/4L60E-70...ech-Kit-1.html
I would highly recommend calling Jeff (owner) and having him put a custom kit together based exactly on your needs.
Also this one from very active member PBA:
https://www.700r4l60e.com/store/prod...&cat=55&page=1
Similarly call Dana (owner) or PM "PBA" and let him put a custom kit together for you.
Besides the Sonnax Smart Shell, I would also recommend the Sonnax input drum reinforcement kit. Both vendors above can supply you with that. I would also recommend getting a wide band (of above vendors choice) even though you then also need a new reverse drum (which is often a good idea anyway).
IMO, there are better rebuild kits available. For one thing they don't detail what the 3-4 clutch setup is. Many (most?) premium builders have now switched to the Sonnax Smart Shell instead of The Beast.
For example, I have frequently recommended TruTechTrans and everyone using them has been very happy with them:
http://www.trutechtrans.com/4L60E-70...ech-Kit-1.html
I would highly recommend calling Jeff (owner) and having him put a custom kit together based exactly on your needs.
Also this one from very active member PBA:
https://www.700r4l60e.com/store/prod...&cat=55&page=1
Similarly call Dana (owner) or PM "PBA" and let him put a custom kit together for you.
Besides the Sonnax Smart Shell, I would also recommend the Sonnax input drum reinforcement kit. Both vendors above can supply you with that. I would also recommend getting a wide band (of above vendors choice) even though you then also need a new reverse drum (which is often a good idea anyway).
I am going full manual for a few reasons. I just dropped in a 5.3 LM7 with about 400-425hp. It is carbed, so I have followed some other builds on how to make the trans work with the carb. It works, but I am not completly happy with it. It will be easier and cheaper in my opinion to go with the full manual and get rid of the electronics. I had a 79 trans am with a manual valve body but it was done before I bought it. I loved the full manual and the constant shifting dose not bother me. Thanks for the info, I will look into both.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
I am going full manual for a few reasons. I just dropped in a 5.3 LM7 with about 400-425hp. It is carbed, so I have followed some other builds on how to make the trans work with the carb. It works, but I am not completly happy with it. It will be easier and cheaper in my opinion to go with the full manual and get rid of the electronics. I had a 79 trans am with a manual valve body but it was done before I bought it. I loved the full manual and the constant shifting dose not bother me. Thanks for the info, I will look into both.
Sorry that I don't know anything about the HD3 manual kit. However, I suspect the shifting is completely hydraulic and controlled only by your shifter. The throttle position (or vacuum) is used to control the line pressure in the trans. Since the shift solenoids are only $12 each, it won't reduce the price of your kit much and you might as well have them if/when you sell the car.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
From: Westbank of N.O.
The hd3 does not use solenoids, u leave them unplugged....u can go back to full auto once the kit is installed by plugging the noids back in and replacing a single spring in the valvebody, without having to remove it again. Unlike my mvb method of the past, the TG kit leaves the pressure manifold switch in place and functioning should u need it (like commanding lockup in 4th).
The hd3 does not use solenoids, u leave them unplugged....u can go back to full auto once the kit is installed by plugging the noids back in and replacing a single spring in the valvebody, without having to remove it again. Unlike my mvb method of the past, the TG kit leaves the pressure manifold switch in place and functioning should u need it (like commanding lockup in 4th).
