PerformaBuild lvl2 users..
#21
On The Tree
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Yes, you should get completely different shift characteristics on every shift. How much of a difference depends upon how whoever builds it sets it up...
#22
Moderator
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The stock setup uses a lot of clearance (.050-075) in the 3-4 clutch and a relatively small feed hole which results in a very gradual shift. I don't know the exact specs of any sponsor's builds (they are hard-earned trade secrets), but I'm confident the clearance is much less and the feed hole is much larger, giving you a fast and noticeable shift. A faster shift (within reason) actually produces less heat and wears the clutches less.
#23
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Performabuilt is pretty awesome. My lvl 2 lasted a good year with an improperly installed converter. Shows you how tough it is. But lol it got trashed when it finally gave out. Already going to order me another and get it installed right and I'm sure it will last for years
Last edited by Chaos07; 06-03-2013 at 06:56 PM.
#24
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Yes, a tighter 3-4 stack helps, but even more critical is a proper 2nd servo setup. This is crucial to a solid 2-3 shift.
And, yes, orifice sizing is a bit of a secret, but what size to use in what setup depends upon so many other factors that inexperienced "builders" still won't know what to do with them. I use .093" and .110" a lot...
And, yes, orifice sizing is a bit of a secret, but what size to use in what setup depends upon so many other factors that inexperienced "builders" still won't know what to do with them. I use .093" and .110" a lot...
#25
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Since you seem to be happy with Performabuilt, you may want to chose a different word in your first sentence. I first thought you were being critical.
#27
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Just paid off and awaiting delivery of my new PB lvl2, can't wait. Any pointers for the swap or it should just be a breeze?
Do you guys usually bypass stock radiator cooler? when racing you slap her to D or 3rd?
Do you guys usually bypass stock radiator cooler? when racing you slap her to D or 3rd?
#30
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Just got the transmission, now i gotta debate wether i should leave the stock rad cooler in conjuction with the b&m in front of rad or bypass the stocker?? if so, how hard will it be?
I'm assuming just disconnecting hoses going to rad and connecting them together? is that it? thanks
I'm assuming just disconnecting hoses going to rad and connecting them together? is that it? thanks