Questions 4l60e? Thanks.
Questions 4l60e? Thanks. So I have been searching for about 2 weeks now and cant find a good answer. So decided to post this asking a few of you guys for help.
I have a built 4l60e rated for 650hp about 20,000 miles on it. I been having a problem shifting into 3rd the last 2 times I drove the car. It just takes around 1500 rpm to shift meaning I will shift it at 5k and it wont shift till 6500. It only does this manually shifting and when it is about 80% throttle. It doesn't slip it grabs fine just takes a while to do it. It will shift fine into and out of every other gear. From everything that I have read I am leaning towards 3-4 clutches wearing out, the trans is not tuned right considering I just got it tuned 2.5 months ago and he said he raised my rev limiter so I don't bump it on the nitrous. Any input or info would be greatly appreciated.
I have a built 4l60e rated for 650hp about 20,000 miles on it. I been having a problem shifting into 3rd the last 2 times I drove the car. It just takes around 1500 rpm to shift meaning I will shift it at 5k and it wont shift till 6500. It only does this manually shifting and when it is about 80% throttle. It doesn't slip it grabs fine just takes a while to do it. It will shift fine into and out of every other gear. From everything that I have read I am leaning towards 3-4 clutches wearing out, the trans is not tuned right considering I just got it tuned 2.5 months ago and he said he raised my rev limiter so I don't bump it on the nitrous. Any input or info would be greatly appreciated.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
If it shifts quickly in automatic mode, e.g. in [D4]/[OD], then the 3-4 clutch and the internals are just fine. I suspect the pressure manifold switch has a a leak; the only way the PCM knows what gear you selected is through the pressure switch; the shifting is completely electrically controlled by the PCM.
The pressure switch sits on top of the valve body and is easy to replace. You only need to drop the pan, remove the filter, electrical connector and 5 bolts. Of course you could start by just making sure the bolts are tight.
The pressure manifold switch costs less than $30:
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...-00035398a.htm
I'm not sure of my diagnosis, but I think it matches your description.
The pressure switch sits on top of the valve body and is easy to replace. You only need to drop the pan, remove the filter, electrical connector and 5 bolts. Of course you could start by just making sure the bolts are tight.
The pressure manifold switch costs less than $30:
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...-00035398a.htm
I'm not sure of my diagnosis, but I think it matches your description.
If it shifts quickly in automatic mode, e.g. in [D4]/[OD], then the 3-4 clutch and the internals are just fine. I suspect the pressure manifold switch has a a leak; the only way the PCM knows what gear you selected is through the pressure switch; the shifting is completely electrically controlled by the PCM.
The pressure switch sits on top of the valve body and is easy to replace. You only need to drop the pan, remove the filter, electrical connector and 5 bolts. Of course you could start by just making sure the bolts are tight.
The pressure manifold switch costs less than $30:
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...-00035398a.htm
I'm not sure of my diagnosis, but I think it matches your description.
The pressure switch sits on top of the valve body and is easy to replace. You only need to drop the pan, remove the filter, electrical connector and 5 bolts. Of course you could start by just making sure the bolts are tight.
The pressure manifold switch costs less than $30:
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...-00035398a.htm
I'm not sure of my diagnosis, but I think it matches your description.
