Bushing Removal
Bushing Removal Does anybody have any tips to get the blind hole bushings out of their parts like the stator shaft rear bushing and the reaction gear front bushing etc besides buying a $900 kent moore tool kit? I dremeled my stator shaft bushing out but I scored the inside of the stator a little. I got a crappy little 3 jaw pilot bearing puller and it just won't grab the edge of the bushing very well. How do you guys do it?
I have a shop press so any bushing that can be pressed out is easy but some need to be pulled out and I'm having trouble with them.
I have a shop press so any bushing that can be pressed out is easy but some need to be pulled out and I'm having trouble with them.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
I looked at the stator shaft - the front bushing can be knocked out with a 19mm socket on a long extension. I also use a Dremel to get out the rear bushing - a slight score won't hurt. I have installed new Sonnax stator shafts which come with new bushings; even then I pop out the front one and install the Sonnax wide bushing. (Note: removing/installing a stator shaft is pretty tricky so as to not damage the pump.)
I have also used a socket to punch out the reaction gear bushing; I couldn't find it tonight, but it looks like a 1-3/16" socket would do it. Make a trip to Sears and find a socket to do the trick.
Two cheapo kits from Harbor Freight are great for removing and installing bushings. The first is their 3/4" socket set (either metric or SAE):
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-piec...-set-5494.html
The second is the reasonably high quality bearing and seal installer kit:
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piec...set-95853.html
And yes, a shop press (even from Harbor Freight) is probably necessary for at least some of the bushings.
I have also used a socket to punch out the reaction gear bushing; I couldn't find it tonight, but it looks like a 1-3/16" socket would do it. Make a trip to Sears and find a socket to do the trick.
Two cheapo kits from Harbor Freight are great for removing and installing bushings. The first is their 3/4" socket set (either metric or SAE):
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-piec...-set-5494.html
The second is the reasonably high quality bearing and seal installer kit:
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piec...set-95853.html
And yes, a shop press (even from Harbor Freight) is probably necessary for at least some of the bushings.
I found that if I put my old ball joint fork backwards through the stator shaft that I could get it to catch on the edge of the bushing. Then I just pounded it out working around as it came out.
Now I have another build question. I can't get any end play. I even went as far as taking the 3-4 clutches out and setting the input drum in without the reverse drum and still no endplay. I can turn it fine, there's just no end play Even with no selective washer. I finally gave up and disassembled it completely down to the lo/reverse piston. I'll reassemble it carefully but does anyone have tips on what to watch out for? I think it looks funny the way the front sun gear rides on those 4 tabs on the sprag. Is that right?
Now I have another build question. I can't get any end play. I even went as far as taking the 3-4 clutches out and setting the input drum in without the reverse drum and still no endplay. I can turn it fine, there's just no end play Even with no selective washer. I finally gave up and disassembled it completely down to the lo/reverse piston. I'll reassemble it carefully but does anyone have tips on what to watch out for? I think it looks funny the way the front sun gear rides on those 4 tabs on the sprag. Is that right?
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
sounds like you didnt get the forward clutches all the way engaged since the 3-4 were removed and rev drum was out. they can be aggravating to spline all the clutches. if the input drum is seated with the rev drum in place the top of the rev. drum will be about 3/8 of an inch below the face of the case where the pump gasket sits...also as u are splining it up grab the input shaft with both hands....rotate back and forth while gently rocking the shaft side to side...u will feel everything loosen up as it drops in past the last clutch
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
IIRC, if you can install the snap ring on the output shaft after installing the front planetary, that is a good indicator everything is assembled correctly so far.
Did you by chance change the pump or stator shaft?
The reverse drum should have no effect on end play; you can skip it when testing for end play. But see Jake's note in post #7 in this recent and similar thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-end-play.html
Did you by chance change the pump or stator shaft?
The reverse drum should have no effect on end play; you can skip it when testing for end play. But see Jake's note in post #7 in this recent and similar thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-end-play.html
