4l60e build problems and (hopefully) solutions
I kind of feel like I could use it with the spring provided in my kit that I mentioned in the earlier post but since I don't understand how any of it works I shouldn't be guessing stuff like that. Here's what I'm thinking:
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
From your pictures, you have the 3rd style TCC valve but the Fitzall instructions show the 2nd style. I have no idea if the 3rd style inner valve should be used or not. There is also a Fitzall valve for 2001+ valve bodies; perhaps that is needed for the 3rd style TCC valve. I am trying to reach CarlsonAuto as he may know the answer to this.
Sorry to hear about your torn Stator rings. Did you use a resizer? You need to keep the resizer on until the last minute as the reverse rings rapidly expand.
Sorry to hear about your torn Stator rings. Did you use a resizer? You need to keep the resizer on until the last minute as the reverse rings rapidly expand.
I did use a resizer and I did leave it on until just before I installed the pump. I really thing think that the problem came from an imperfect reverse input drum bushing. I'm using sockets and stuff to press in my bushings. I'll be more careful when I replace it and I'll probably lube it up better before the install. I wasn't totally sure I was ready for that anyway. I want to put my new boost valve in before I install the pump even if i don't have to. It'll all come together, especially with the help you guys have offered. Luckily, I don't have to finish this to get to work tomorrow or anything.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 168
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That is the 3rd style valve that requires the other 2001-up valve. Realistically the only difference between the early and late techpak valves is the length of the shaft that you have the spring on. One could get creative and make the one you have work or order the later style and do it that way. In the end all you are trying to achieve is making everything in that bore stationary.
Huh. I'm going to order one but I looked at the instructions and the OEM valve in those instructions don't look like mine either. From my measurements, it looks like I need that shaft to be .170" longer. Anyway, I believe you. I'll order the later style and keep this one for the next build.
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 213
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From: Manitowoc wi.
Before you install your new bushings chamfer the leading edge just slightly to make the stator rings easier to slide in the reverse drum. Got this tip from my trans shop.The replacement bushing should already have a chamfered edge but I have seen them come without.
Last edited by mantycarguy; Sep 29, 2013 at 06:58 PM.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Thanks for the tip Mantycarguy; I've never had trouble installing the pump, perhaps because my bushings came chamfered. (Also see below.)
Axekick: this is probably the most difficult bushing to replace; I use a dremel to carefully cut the old 95% through in two spots and then twist it out.
Perhaps the experts will correct me, but I use the plastic from a big pop bottle and two hose clamps to resize the stator rings. As I tighten the hose clamps snugly with a hex driver, I suspect I size the rings smaller than an official resizer. After installing the pump, I give it one day for the rings to open up before I start the engine and test the trans. (A pro builder will not have that 1-day luxury.)
Axekick: this is probably the most difficult bushing to replace; I use a dremel to carefully cut the old 95% through in two spots and then twist it out.
Perhaps the experts will correct me, but I use the plastic from a big pop bottle and two hose clamps to resize the stator rings. As I tighten the hose clamps snugly with a hex driver, I suspect I size the rings smaller than an official resizer. After installing the pump, I give it one day for the rings to open up before I start the engine and test the trans. (A pro builder will not have that 1-day luxury.)
This may be a dumb question but I'm putting it out there. Is the Reverse boost velve the same as the line pressure booster? I got a new reverse boost valve in my kit and then bought the LB-1 and it seems pretty clear that they replace the same part. Am I missing something?
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Verdad Gallardo Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
The main boost valve is sometimes called the Reverse boost valve. The reason is that the line pressure is always increased in reverse, in addition to being controlled by the EPC (pressure control solenoid).
I would suggest using the LB-1 because it has o-rings which seal it against leaks (caused by wear) and therefore give a more precise pressure.
I would
I would suggest using the LB-1 because it has o-rings which seal it against leaks (caused by wear) and therefore give a more precise pressure.
I would
My transmission is all together and just about ready to install. The problem now is, the more I read, the more sure I am that there are differences between the one I built and the one in my truck that won't let it work. My truck is a 2006 Tahoe so I guess it probably has the extra speed sensor. I can't tell without dropping the pan, or can I? I guess to make it work, I'd have to swap the input drum and shaft and pump into the new trans. If that is the case, I think I'll either pull the trans from the truck and just rebuild it with all my upgraded parts. That just means my truck will be down for a little while. Otherwise, I have to sell the one I've built and start over with a later model trans. I'm just not sure enough about my build to sell it to anyone. I do have a buddy who would try it, but then it will be a used tranny. I doubt he has the money to buy it. This sucks.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
I don't have the experience with later ECUs to be sure, but I suspect that the lack of an input speed sensor (ISS) is not critical and the error codes can be disabled with a tune.
Otherwise you are correct - the ISS consists of a different input shaft/drum and pump. Also a different wiring harness. Yes, I think you should drop the truck pan and look for the ISS which is a wire going into the pump near the shift-shaft.
I also PM'ed you my cell # in case you want to discuss your options, but we should first know exactly what your truck has.
Otherwise you are correct - the ISS consists of a different input shaft/drum and pump. Also a different wiring harness. Yes, I think you should drop the truck pan and look for the ISS which is a wire going into the pump near the shift-shaft.
I also PM'ed you my cell # in case you want to discuss your options, but we should first know exactly what your truck has.
Ted, I really appreciate you. I will probably just go ahead and try to do the swap in the next couple of weeks. It's all together and ready to go in. I have one question that I can think of right now. How much end play is normal for the output shaft? I thought it felt like a lot. It measures in at right at .035". I put the torque converter on. It was a little stiff but it finally dropped on. It offers some resistance when turning it too. I expect that that is normal since the pump internals are new and not broken in. I'll pull the converter back off and fill with fluid before I do the install.
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Well, I wish one of the pro builders would answer your output shaft end play question as I don't know. (My spare trans is in storage and my other spare is completely disassembled.)
.035 does sound a bit much. Sonnax makes .010 washers to reduce it.
I think the output end play is related to input shaft end play and that should definitely be less than .035. Have you measured that?
.035 does sound a bit much. Sonnax makes .010 washers to reduce it.
I think the output end play is related to input shaft end play and that should definitely be less than .035. Have you measured that?
Any thoughts on the torque converter resistance before I install this thing and just see if it's ok by trial? Does your torque converter spin freely on a new build? I tore the pump down and put it back together twice with the same results.
I decided to try to figure out why my torque converter wasn't spinning the pump freely. I carelessly pried the pump out with the tc solenoid still in until it broke so I'll be getting a new harness. Anyway, i disassembled the pump. Everything is shiny and clean but i noticed the pump bushing looked worn. Apparently, i installed the wrong bushing. That's what was causing the resistance. I had a new Teflon pump bushing lying on the table. I swapped it in and reassembled everything. Now the converter spins the way i expected it to. Glad i checked.
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Sounds like you are having a rough ride, but making progress. You will be a trans expert when you have it all together; probably can rebuild it with your eyes closed soon. 
You can purchase just the TCC solenoid and splice it in. $15. Or if you have the old harness, just cut it out, splice it into the new harness and use the o-ring from the new one if still OK. Of course, if you didn't already get a new harness, then this is a good time for that.
You can purchase just the TCC solenoid and splice it in. $15. Or if you have the old harness, just cut it out, splice it into the new harness and use the o-ring from the new one if still OK. Of course, if you didn't already get a new harness, then this is a good time for that.
The roughest part for me is finding time to work on it. When i do get to work on it i really enjoy it. I had an extra wire harness so i just swapped it in. If it gives me any trouble I'll probably just get a new one. By then I'll know which one i really need.
I'm so close but so far. I spent all weekend swapping my transmission. It was looking like I might actually get to start it up and see if i have gears tonight. I was putting fluid in and I tried to check it and, dammit, the dipstick won't go all the way in. I guess I put the dipstick stopper inside the pan on wrong. I wish I hadn't just dumped $40 worth of luid in. I also wish I didn't have to drop torsion bars, two crossmembers and my Y-Pipe to drop the pan. Luckily this pan has a drain plug.
Then, to make matters worse. The wires on my starter were touching by the time I got it back in. When I went to hook the battery up the starter engaged. I figured, "that is a problem I can solve tonight", so I got t after it. When I started trying to get the wire right, the end of the cable broke off. I always knew if I worked on this thing enough times that that would happen. So no drivey tonight. Anyone know how to find a replacement cable for an 06 Tahoe? It has the little accessory box on the driver side of the engine. I'm assuming the cable goes from there to the starter.
I'm not discouraged although i am exhausted. I still think this thing is going to work. It's just not going to be very easy. Many lessons learned so far.
Then, to make matters worse. The wires on my starter were touching by the time I got it back in. When I went to hook the battery up the starter engaged. I figured, "that is a problem I can solve tonight", so I got t after it. When I started trying to get the wire right, the end of the cable broke off. I always knew if I worked on this thing enough times that that would happen. So no drivey tonight. Anyone know how to find a replacement cable for an 06 Tahoe? It has the little accessory box on the driver side of the engine. I'm assuming the cable goes from there to the starter.
I'm not discouraged although i am exhausted. I still think this thing is going to work. It's just not going to be very easy. Many lessons learned so far.