4l60e shudder
I had the dealer diagnose the situation. It is going back to the shop who did the work so I wont have to pay anymore out of pocket.
They will also diagnose it as well, hopefully they will get the same results as the dealer. I didn't get a good feeling calling and telling them this.
The dealer wanted $3300 for a new converter/valve body and spacer plate.

I just have to sit back and wait, the original shop is getting it towed Monday. Once they diagnose the situation, they will contact me and we will go forward.
They don't seem to think they did anything wrong.
I went to the dealer to get it re-flashed back to the stock tune.
I have a question = How can you get it re-flashed when it was never tuned?
I called FTI and spoke with Justin, great guy, willing to do anything. He seems to suspect that the DOD is the cause of all this.
The only thing is, this never happened before I got the work done.
Why would it start now?
I also found another transmission mechanic who is willing to work with me to figure it out before throwing more money at it.
Hopefully something will come out of this, its pretty f**king aggravating driving around at 35/45mph and having to listen to the chatter, its so damn loud.
Sorry, what is "DOD"?
I would start by putting a pressure gauge on the trans to ensure the line pressure at easy throttle and low rpm is high enough to fully apply the TCC.
Next is a tough choice - replace the TCC PWM valve in the valve body or try a different converter. If the line pressure is OK and your trans is only 6 years old, I suspect it is the converter.
Hopefully your new trans mechanic will be able to figure it out.
DOD = displacement on demand = shuts down 4 cylinders when at cruising speeds
I will bring this up to him when we talk.
Thanks for the info.
I'm hoping he can figure it out.
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I tried that but, from my understanding it's equipped with what's called pulse width modulation or something like that. Just more electronics involved. Which in turn does not react like the older model trans.
If someone could please clarify this that would be great.
Does it makes sense that it could be the converter because it only happens when it locks up?
When its warm out, the shudder does not feel as bad as it is when its cold. Why would that be?
Before I had the work done, it had a very slight shudder at around 43mph and the same thing would happen but it was very slight. Why would there be a change in lock up time with addition a new converter?
I could go on and on, sorry. Trying to figure this out has been a f*ckin nightmare. Especially being in a new state not knowing anyone and getting screwed by the first shop to do work for me.
Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks
Told him my situation and made an appointment for 04-01.
I will just sit patiently and wait for that day.
How's HP Tuners? I know nothing about tuning. Is there any kind of literature on it?
I'll go through both this weekend.
Thanks again
Had my appointment today, great guys there. Very cool and very informative, not like the original shop I went to. RPM gets 2 thumbs up.
They dyno and road tuned my Tahoe, it drives like a new truck. I'm going to have to get used to it after it driving like crap for so long.
Unfortunately it still has the vibration. He recommended I replace the u-joint and check the trans mount. I'll try to tackle that this weekend and see what happens.
If anyone is in the Raleigh area and need some GM LS based parts or services. Check out RPM Motorsports in Garner NC, they are close to 42 and 40.









