4l60e rebuild not turning.
 

Hi everybody!

very new member here, but I am really hoping you can help me out and tell me the very obvious thing I am missing.

Almost a year ago now I took my car off the road because the gearbox needed a rebuild. I have been out of work due to mental illness for 2 years now so I cant afford to send the box off to be rebuilt.
Slowly but surely spending any spare minute and dollars I have it is 95% done.

I have been using this TruTech rebuild kit
http://www.trutechtrans.com/4L60E-Ma...II-Basket.html

along with 5 pinion front and rear planetaries and a Beast sunshell.

I have pulled this thing apart and put together so many times now its ridiculous.

When I turn the output shaft the box turns both ways before the pump is installed. Even when the pump is in but not torqued down output still turns both ways, but when the pump is torqued to proper specs the output shaft seizes and only turns one way.

The reverse input drum has clearance with the lip on the case as shown
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps46b63521.jpg

I have double and triple checked that all the washers and bearings sit correctly and havent slipped out of place.
I am at wits end with this box.

Any help here would be appreciated.

The output shaft will turn "fairly" easily one way, but will be about 3x harder to turn the other way. I can barely turn it the "hard" way without pliers.
Also have your measured input shaft end play with the pump fully tightened down? It should be between .015 and .035; not critical, but here must be at least some.

The output shaft will only turn one way...
im 200kg and with two vice grips on the output Im positive it only turns one way.

I did measure the play a few times but havent done so recently, I had no play even when I chose the thinnest selective washer and then took a few thou off that.
But since the last time I check I has about 42thou taken off the race.

When the thinnest selective washer gives you no end play, something is wrong. I've tried to help a few people with similar problems, but often need to ask for help from a pro builder and don't remember the solution.

First I assume the c-clip next to the front planet holding the output shaft went in OK? Assuming Yes, IIRC everything under that C-clip has to be OK.

However, just to be sure, the 5-pinion planet came from TruTech? Did they include the matching reaction carrier shaft?

Is the stator shaft fully flush with the pump?
Did you change pumps?
What year is the trans?

Have you contacted TruTech? Owner Jeff is very cooperative and helpful.

c-clip is fine,
all the clearances were in tolerance, all the air pressure testing works perfectly.
the stator shaft is flush.
the pump is the same one that came out of the box and the stator shaft was never taken off.
2000 model trans.
the 5 pinion i got off a guy from ebay that was sealed from factory, had to buy the reaction carrier shaft separately.

Jeff was great when I was talking to him, but then I asked him some details about buying a torque converter from him then never heard from him again.

I should probably drop him a line.

I must say the whole time I have been following the technical videos dvd and the atsg manuals to the word..... buggered if I know what is wrong

You should read this thread, especially my details about the 5-pinion planet starting around post #10:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...n-planets.html

Your 5-pinion planet might be an older style; just make sure the bearing is centered by either the planet or the reaction shaft. I don't think this will affect end play, but better to be sure.

Where are you located?

lol
located in Australia

and that link you posted is what I followed when I first found out about the 5 pinion needing a new reaction carrier

OK, good that you checked the reaction carrier and its bearing.
Australia sounds great, but I don't know any transmission friends there to help you. :)

Kinda grasping for straws here....
Did you by chance change the check ball cartridge in the input drum?
You are installing the gasket under the pump?
Is the band/servo loose enough to allow the reverse drum to turn?
Do you have the old reverse drum? If yes, see if that changes the end play.

I would like to know that the end play is when the trans seems to be seized up.

yeh, being in oz can make it a little isolating.

check ball cartridge = didnt change
paper type gasket is under pump
band is loose enough, havent installed the servo yet
old reverse drum is somewhere... will have to fish it out

Make sure the reverse drum is sitting on the bearing above the selective washer and isn't being held higher by the sun shell. Here is a picture that shows the reverse drum sitting just below the case lip for the pump:

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/...d/IMG_1034.jpg

When fully assembled, the stator shaft rides on the bearing above the selective washer and the reverse drum has some play; on the bottom the reverse drum rides on that bearing; on the top it rides on the nylon washer between it and the pump.

I think your reverse drum is riding too high and has no clearance when the pump is tightened down. The input shaft can have end play even when the reverse drum is jammed.

When you turn the trans output shaft the hard way, the sun shell and the reverse drum turn. Since it doesn't for you, that is why I think the Reverse drum is jammed. It could be a defect in the sun shell or reverse drum; that is why I suggest you try your old parts.