Well I chose to go with Circle D TC and flexplate. Stopped by and spoke with Chris and was def a cool and informative visit. Came home with the parts I needed and a lot more information. Got a tour of the shop, very cool place.. will def go back for another TC when I get around to getting my other project on the road.

 

Great meeting you, good luck with the install. Any questions let us know. Looking forward to helping you out on you future projects.

Chris

 

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Chris,

I was trying to get everything set and ready for the removal and install, you said to use just standard trans oil to put in the converter before installing, how much did you recommend?

 

1/2 a quart to a full quart for pre-lube. The transmission will fill it all the way when you start it up. You just want a little in there so you do not start it dry.

Chris

 

cool thanks..

 

I know in one of my many posts/questions, I asked but searching didn't find what I thought I asked.. but when it comes to tuners, what unit should I consider getting? And who offers the custom tunes for the car after all the mods im doing..

 

"Frost" is the king of mail order tunes on this board. Do a search for him and get his contact info. Of course, there may be a local tuner in your area. You can search the PCM & Tuning forum for one.

 

thanks..

And thanks to everyone that has provided suggestions and info on what im to expect when I do the job.. If the forecast stays like they say it will be, then this weekend is when im going to start the work...hopefully get a lot done on the car over the weekend.. I have a long list of items to do, which I hope to get done, but im not going to rush it and do what I can to get the car back on the road...

 

Well had a great weekend with the weather and car.. nothing like working on your car without breaking a sweat or freezing your butt off.. Ill have to post the pics later, but I could have saved myself a lot of $$$$ if I would have done more inspection after locating the ticking... Saturday after getting the car up on blocks and few 2x12 under each tire I began the process of taking things off. Following the steps found else where and suggestions from members here I found the source of the ticking, and it wasn't a cracked flexplate. once I removed the inspection cover to begin working on the TC bolts, the first bolt that was exposed was the cause of the problem, it had backed out of the hole and was a hair from the trans case.. im sure if I would found that before spending all the money we could have had the car back on the road for no money... That was the bad news..

The good news is now that everything is apart I get to make all the mods I bought anyway.. since I already had the parts and the trans was already out and away from the motor, I wasn't turning back now, so I pushed forward and got the trans out and under the car. Let me back up, before dropping the trans, I emptied it of fluids, removed the old pan, wiped and cleaned any more fluid from the case and installed a new pan with plug to change fluids later on. Now I installed the new pan and gasket and tighten the bolts snug, but noticed the next morning that it was leaking in the corner where the dip stick goes, but it wasn't coming from above, it was coming from the pan/gasket corner.. since there is other things in that corner that could be the leak, what if anything should I look for? I mean its a new gasket and pan, I can torque to spec and see, but I drained the transmission, where could more fluid be coming from?
So Saturday was spent removing the trans, replacing the rear main seal, installed the flexplate everything torqued as I went to not leave anything undone.

Sunday I started a little earlier and had brother in law help and we focused on the motor mounts, got the driver side done, wasn't that easy, but done. Started on the passenger side and got it off to drill out and install the new mounts, will drill out tonight and get ready to install ASAP, but that was a pain having to remove the ac compressor to get it off..

plans now are to get the pass side mount back in, then install the headers, we also removed the fuel rails and injectors in preparation for the LS6 instake install, but main goal is the lower end of the car so that I don't have to keep putting it up in the air to work under it..

 

have you taken the car for a test drive with your new converter? should be a nice kick in the @@@. stock flexplates can crack / break so you didnt hurt anything by upgrading. cheers.

 

I can only pretend to drive the car right now.. the trans is in the garage, need to clean it and find the source of the leak it has(even though its empty with no fluids) it leaked really bad all over the driveway.

TC hasn't been installed yet, it will be once I clean up the case and get it all ready to go back in, then ill install and remount the trans.

but even after reinstalling it, I have the upper portion of the motor in pieces, so wont be testing driving anytime soon.

 

bummer, my cars headed to the shop as soon as my mechanic finnishes working on a twin turbo truck. i need my new stall, sfi plate, cooler , & ta installed for dyno day in may. i already know aprox rwhp (dyno 3 times b4) however this particular mustang dyno has a simulated qtr mile i want to see the result of the stall.

 

but I cant wait to get it back on the road, haven't had a V8 running in a while, I have 3 other project cars and they are all in pieces waiting to be reassembled.

This one was the one that would take the least time to fix, so refocused on getting this one road ready.

Once I get the other mods( in my sig ) installed, I def plan on take a spin around the block to make sure everything is ok of course running open Y pipe since we would be taking it to the shop to finish out the back end of the exhaust..

 

A 3200 stall would be great

 

Well as I mentioned above in my first post after working on the car, here is what the cause of my ticking was..



Notice anything special about the bolt in red?

There was nothing wrong with the flexplate or anything else for that matter except a loose bolt.

 

Here are pics of the old flexplate, nothing wrong with it.. all intact



And new rear main seal installed without issues..



New flexplate from Circle D, installed and torqued



Driver side motor mount installed



Transmission all cleaned and painted just cause I could



And new TC installed and ready for this weekends installation

 

Chris,

well its time to reinstall the trans and remembering what you stated about measuring so I can use the right washers im in need of some assistance..

Here is the measurement from the center of the TC to the straight edge
(new TC)



And here is the measurement from the center of the TC to the straight edge
(old stock TC)



It is about 1/8" difference..

 

Not sure about your measurments. But you want about 1/8" converter clearance for movement. If you have more then 1/8" you need to shim it down.

Chris

 

So in other words, with the straight edge against the case and measuring from the center of the TC to the edge, should be atleast 1/8"? Am I understanding that correctly?

 

Straight edge to the converter pad, not the converter pilot. Should be just over an inch. Then measure from flexplate to block, should be about .900". Difference of the 2 is your converter clearance. Anything more than .125 needs a shim.

Chris