A 4l60e that really holds
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 55
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A 4l60e that really holds I have a 2000 Silverado shortbed single cab two wheel drive that has lq9 with stage 2 799s and Torquer v3 with bolt ons, The transmission was rebuilt by an expert and installed Transgo hd2 kit and I asked him to make the transmission more beefed to hold the power,so he used all the washers that comes in the transgo kit it shifts hard I can live with that but the transmission is acting weired lately,sometimes it shifts super fine off idle and wot but later it acts weired it shifts and act like its slipping,I have this problem and I told the guy who rebuilt the trans and he told me its your converter so I swapped the B&M 3000 holeshot to EDGE 4500 the truck runs very strong now but still acts weired sometimes,I have no MIL light on checked the TPS its fine my truck runs mafless,where can I start to look at things? Is there something wrong inside the transmission? If so is there other parts I can get to make the 4l60e better trans? I will get billet servos by the end of this month
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,216
Likes: 236
From: Wichita KS / Rancho San Diego
Using all the washers just makes for unnecessarily jarring 1-2 shifts. Use one at most.
Like the man said, you're going to have to give a better description if you're going to get any help on this forum diagnosing the problem.
Like the man said, you're going to have to give a better description if you're going to get any help on this forum diagnosing the problem.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,322
Likes: 528
From: Ann Arbor, MI
As RevGTO mentioned and very experienced builders like PBA agree, don't use more than 1 spacer in the 1-2 accumulator with the HD2 shift kit.
Remember that the PCM completely controls when the trans shifts and to a great extent how hard it shifts. However if under the same conditions some shifts are hard and others are soft (especially with slippage), this can be caused by a "sticky" EPS (pressure control solenoid, also called PCS). Several builder here have told me they not only replace the EPS with every rebuild, but just about any time a 4L60E car comes to their shop with apparent trans problems.
Once the 1-2 accumulator is out (to reduce the # washers), it is only one more bolt to replace the EPS, which costs under $30.
So I would suggest replacing the EPS and changing the 1-2 accumulator to only have one washer. Start there and tell us how that works for you.
This is no guarantee to fix your issues, but IMHO has a reasonable probability.
Well, actually the first thing you should consider is a sensor problem as this will also affect shift quality. Disconnecting the MAF is a quick way to test if the MAF is marginal. I don't recommend WOT with the MAF disconnected unless you are absolutely sure the PCM was tuned for speed density operation.
Remember that the PCM completely controls when the trans shifts and to a great extent how hard it shifts. However if under the same conditions some shifts are hard and others are soft (especially with slippage), this can be caused by a "sticky" EPS (pressure control solenoid, also called PCS). Several builder here have told me they not only replace the EPS with every rebuild, but just about any time a 4L60E car comes to their shop with apparent trans problems.
Once the 1-2 accumulator is out (to reduce the # washers), it is only one more bolt to replace the EPS, which costs under $30.
So I would suggest replacing the EPS and changing the 1-2 accumulator to only have one washer. Start there and tell us how that works for you.
This is no guarantee to fix your issues, but IMHO has a reasonable probability.
Well, actually the first thing you should consider is a sensor problem as this will also affect shift quality. Disconnecting the MAF is a quick way to test if the MAF is marginal. I don't recommend WOT with the MAF disconnected unless you are absolutely sure the PCM was tuned for speed density operation.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
As RevGTO mentioned and very experienced builders like PBA agree, don't use more than 1 spacer in the 1-2 accumulator with the HD2 shift kit.
Remember that the PCM completely controls when the trans shifts and to a great extent how hard it shifts. However if under the same conditions some shifts are hard and others are soft (especially with slippage), this can be caused by a "sticky" EPS (pressure control solenoid, also called PCS). Several builder here have told me they not only replace the EPS with every rebuild, but just about any time a 4L60E car comes to their shop with apparent trans problems.
Once the 1-2 accumulator is out (to reduce the # washers), it is only one more bolt to replace the EPS, which costs under $30.
So I would suggest replacing the EPS and changing the 1-2 accumulator to only have one washer. Start there and tell us how that works for you.
This is no guarantee to fix your issues, but IMHO has a reasonable probability.
Well, actually the first thing you should consider is a sensor problem as this will also affect shift quality. Disconnecting the MAF is a quick way to test if the MAF is marginal. I don't recommend WOT with the MAF disconnected unless you are absolutely sure the PCM was tuned for speed density operation.
Remember that the PCM completely controls when the trans shifts and to a great extent how hard it shifts. However if under the same conditions some shifts are hard and others are soft (especially with slippage), this can be caused by a "sticky" EPS (pressure control solenoid, also called PCS). Several builder here have told me they not only replace the EPS with every rebuild, but just about any time a 4L60E car comes to their shop with apparent trans problems.
Once the 1-2 accumulator is out (to reduce the # washers), it is only one more bolt to replace the EPS, which costs under $30.
So I would suggest replacing the EPS and changing the 1-2 accumulator to only have one washer. Start there and tell us how that works for you.
This is no guarantee to fix your issues, but IMHO has a reasonable probability.
Well, actually the first thing you should consider is a sensor problem as this will also affect shift quality. Disconnecting the MAF is a quick way to test if the MAF is marginal. I don't recommend WOT with the MAF disconnected unless you are absolutely sure the PCM was tuned for speed density operation.
