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Circle D 3200 stall ?

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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 05:53 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Chris25
Ya I know some of the shops around here charge like 400-500$ for install not including fluid. Luckily my brother works at Ford and I can use the lift and trans jack.
i'd gladly pay that! i've been quoted 1k, drm wants $800, a local garage wants $660. nobody with a hoist will do it for $400. (i pay cash!)
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Old Jul 30, 2014 | 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by DANOZ28
i'd gladly pay that! i've been quoted 1k, drm wants $800, a local garage wants $660. nobody with a hoist will do it for $400. (i pay cash!)
Thats crazy 400$ is about the going rate around here, I wouldnt pay 800$ for a stall install.
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 08:10 AM
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Not a bad DIY project really.
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by spy2520
Not a bad DIY project really.
From what I've read the hardest part is seating the torque converter so it doesn't hit the pump right?
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 09:44 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Chris25
From what I've read the hardest part is seating the torque converter so it doesn't hit the pump right?
It's a critical part but its not hard. First time advice would be to doubt yourself and measure although it is fairly easy to feel when its in. Definitely an expensive **** up though.
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by spy2520

It's a critical part but its not hard. First time advice would be to doubt yourself and measure although it is fairly easy to feel when its in. Definitely an expensive **** up though.
Ya I've read some horror stories on here where they didn't check clearances.
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 07:00 PM
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ya its pretty intuitive, the hardest thing is getting the top bolts off the bellhousing to drop the trans. after that just remove the old converter and add about a 1/2-1 qt to the new and then slide it onto the shaft gently turning and pushing. you will feel 1 click and then a 2nd click that lets you know its seated. the distance between the mounting pad and the bellhousing should be 1-1/8 iirc
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 09:14 PM
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That's pretty much it. And measuring should be mandatory because I've had some that needed washers to get the correct depth. My circle D stall came with two different thickness washers for the converter bolts.

Also, the top bellhousing bolt (and i think the one to the left of it) is the hardest part. With stock mounts everything pivots down and you can see it from certain angles. Still can be a pain to get out but its no terrible. Frustrating is what i'd call it. Now since i switched to solid mounts, its just a bitch. No other way to put it. Motor mount bolts had to come out and I ended up needing a scope so that i could see the bolt to line the socket up on it.

Last edited by spy2520; Jul 31, 2014 at 09:20 PM.
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Old Aug 1, 2014 | 10:55 AM
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Here's a FTI How-To video. And even though it's for a Powerglide. Many of the principles and steps are the same.

I personally would have recommended FTI. But to each their own.
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Old Aug 1, 2014 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by DANOZ28
i have a dead spot at 50 mph and i hate it! i've got a billet 3k stall sitting in the garage and nobody can install it for a reasonable price UGH! cant wait.
Did you try Nate at One Guys Garage in Farmington, MN?
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Old Aug 2, 2014 | 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Chavez
Video Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nqolVL5KsDc

Here's a FTI How-To video. And even though it's for a Powerglide. Many of the principles and steps are the same.

I personally would have recommended FTI. But to each their own.
Thanks for the link.
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