4l60e puking fluid
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Teching In
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4l60e puking fluid 1995 trans am lt1/4l60e. 121k
Just installed a new built 4l60e. Runs, shifts good. 2500 stall auxillary cooler ran in line with stock cooler.
Added proper amount of fluid. drove for about 100 miles. Today at WOT 2nd to 3rd shift. Engine hesitated and threw a code. I looked back to see smoke everywhere. Already had scanner hooked up to monitor tranny temps (temps were good 150F cruising and 175F during blasts). Code was egr 32. Pulled over to see it was my Cat. smoking, dripping with red tranny fluid. Trans temps are good, fluid WAS right (its a little low now). Any ideas?? This was how my last trans ate it. Started puking, then lost over run clutches, then grenaded. Reverse still worked. I noticed the smoke during the run I had the engine hesitation(probably egr valve clogged) but that must have made cat hot enough to burn the fluid that may have already been being purged onto it. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Just installed a new built 4l60e. Runs, shifts good. 2500 stall auxillary cooler ran in line with stock cooler.
Added proper amount of fluid. drove for about 100 miles. Today at WOT 2nd to 3rd shift. Engine hesitated and threw a code. I looked back to see smoke everywhere. Already had scanner hooked up to monitor tranny temps (temps were good 150F cruising and 175F during blasts). Code was egr 32. Pulled over to see it was my Cat. smoking, dripping with red tranny fluid. Trans temps are good, fluid WAS right (its a little low now). Any ideas?? This was how my last trans ate it. Started puking, then lost over run clutches, then grenaded. Reverse still worked. I noticed the smoke during the run I had the engine hesitation(probably egr valve clogged) but that must have made cat hot enough to burn the fluid that may have already been being purged onto it. Any ideas would be appreciated.
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This was not a 4l60, but I had a Th350 that puked, and it was the breather tube that was clogged. I don't know if the 4l60 has one? I even took the trans back to the builder and he didn't find it. I just checked it because that was the only thing that I had not checked.
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Teching In
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I think the only tube on the trans is the vent tube on top the trans...Everything I've looked up is saying to flush the cooler lines... Unfortunately I forgot to do that before THIS install (like I said the previous Tranny did they same thing and I'd flushed the lines then). I really dont think much will come out, but has anyone ever been able to flush the lines without unbolting the trans? I really dont want to go through disconnecting everything just to lower the trans 5 inches to get my hands in there. I'm debating on just not messing with it, topping the trans off and limping to a trans shop. Would the return line from my auxillary cooler being pinched or anything cause kind of mess? Im not trying to cook this trans too as they cost $$$$ to have rebuilt.
Where is the fluid coming from. Until you figure out where its coming from for all we know one of the hard lines wore a pin hole in it and its not tranny related at all. That is until fluid gets low and kills it.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Iowa
Its not uncommon for the pump bushing to "walk" out of its place, cover the return hole, and the fluid has nowhere else to go other than the front seal. If it was leaking enough, the converter could toss it all over the place. I'd at least take a peek and see if it's leaking from there.
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Teching In
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As long as I monitor temps and keep tranny full is it ok to drive to a shop? about a 40 minute drive. Also, with the bellhousing cover I dont think the converter would sling it everywhere, it would just pour out of the weep hole in the bottom right?
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Iowa
If the inspection cover is still on then correct it shouldn't sling fluid all over. However, it's some slimy **** and at high speed, you'd be surprised where it can make it. I think you would've noticed a decent mess on the inspection cover though.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
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Im going to take it up to the shop today and use my lift to check it out while its running through the gears...Its got about 500 miles on the new rebuild so I figured the filter should be changed anyway due to clutch material breaking in and any foreign rebuild debris...Before I go I think Im going to throw an old CB magnet on the pan and see how much crap I can catch in the pan. If the converter was slinging fluid then it should be on the starter as well, I'll look for that. Is this a common problem on these 4l60s? I do not have a rubber hose on my steel vent tube from the trans, I know some people with trucks have a Y kind of connection and return feed them into their dipsticks. The thing that gets me with this is that, besides sometimes fogging the highway if I WOT, the shifts are firm and crisp and cruising the tranny temps will be 150s. in town it stays around 180-190. So overheating I wouldnt think would be the problem. After I do fluid and filter drop Ill run it a bit and see what happens...If it still does it I guess a trip to a transmission shop will be in the future.
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Teching In
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Got back from the shop, turns out the filter neck that goes into the transmission was not seated properly. The problem was the rubber O-ring that the filter locks into was not right and the filter would not snap into place. Pulled the o ring out and replaced with new one, new filter snapped into place. Car still smoked a little but that is probably residue from the past burning off. Did not seem to be puking on the way home as the underbody is dry and nothing dripping from exhaust...Will update if status changes. Only added 4qts of fluid.
Im not sure how or if this was the cause of my problem or just something else that wasnt right..Will keep fingers crossed
Im not sure how or if this was the cause of my problem or just something else that wasnt right..Will keep fingers crossed