4l80e no reverse
Drop the pan and fix your manual valve and linkage.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 145
Likes: 1
Jake was correct. I forgot to connect it. I connected it and goes forwards and backwards. Now a question, the nail that holds the shifter shaft in place broke, where do I get another one? And a shifter shaft? The threads on mine are rusted and rough.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 145
Likes: 1
took for a drive today and shifted great. much better then before with the old 4l80e. Pressures roughly 75psi at idle, WOT in reverse it spikes to 300psi, Drive is 200psi, cruising it stays around 100psi when I go WOT it spikes to 200psi. Every gear works good. Drove it roughly 5 miles then rechecked fluid and looks good. Temps stayed around 110-120 degrees according to HPtuners and autometer gauge.
I dual fed the directs internally, and left out the 3rd gear check ball(#8 in ATSG manual).
Reverse seems a little slow to engage, takes a few seconds but once it grabs it seems to hold. I read its due to the dual feeding but if i take out the #9 reverse check ball that will help. Can anyone confirm this ? I'm going to drop the pan during the week to check the fluid, make sure everything is good.
I dual fed the directs internally, and left out the 3rd gear check ball(#8 in ATSG manual).
Reverse seems a little slow to engage, takes a few seconds but once it grabs it seems to hold. I read its due to the dual feeding but if i take out the #9 reverse check ball that will help. Can anyone confirm this ? I'm going to drop the pan during the week to check the fluid, make sure everything is good.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 189
Likes: 12
From: Newman Lake, WA
Yes, I leave out the #9 check ball. Since you dual fed the direct, and blocked one side, the direct has to feed from one circuit only when engaging reverse. Checkball #9 orifices this feed and will make for a slow reverse engagement. Either leave it out completely (easiest), or drill out the orifice to .093" or so.
How is the 2-3 shift with no 3rd checkball in there? In a truck that might be a pretty heavy shift...
How is the 2-3 shift with no 3rd checkball in there? In a truck that might be a pretty heavy shift...
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 145
Likes: 1
Yes, I leave out the #9 check ball. Since you dual fed the direct, and blocked one side, the direct has to feed from one circuit only when engaging reverse. Checkball #9 orifices this feed and will make for a slow reverse engagement. Either leave it out completely (easiest), or drill out the orifice to .093" or so.
How is the 2-3 shift with no 3rd checkball in there? In a truck that might be a pretty heavy shift...
How is the 2-3 shift with no 3rd checkball in there? In a truck that might be a pretty heavy shift...
The 2-3 shift isn't bad at all, no worst then with the old separator plate that I drilled out per the shift kit instructions. I didn't drill out the #3 hole, only removed the checkball. So I am running with 6 check ***** and runs good. Tomorrow will be a good day of driving, going to break it in some. Thinking 50miles is a good road test. It does good around town, no issues at all. fluid pressure is right where it should be as well. shifts great compared to the old 4l80e.
