4L60E Repairs
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,913
Likes: 366
From: White Bear, Mn
TECH Junkie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,046
Likes: 713
From: Poplarville, MS
If there is a local trans shop in your area they may be willing to help with any bushings and, if you get that kit that you posted a link to, pressing the stator support in. They may also be a source for some parts that you may need that aren’t in the kit. There are so many parts that can break a kit cannot always cover everything.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 189
Likes: 12
From: Newman Lake, WA
You asked for it, so here are some thoughts:
I agree on the Sonnax .490 boost valve over the Transgo. I, ultimately, prefer a .500" boost valve for the best line pressure curve, but I won't put anything "Transgo" in anything that I build (including any of their "shift kits"). We have our boost valves made for us locally, so we're able to get the .500" that I prefer, plus, we bring in slightly more R/I boost than any of the commercially available valves. But, ultimately, the .010" difference in diameter that we're talking about here is of little consequence. I'd use the Sonnax .490", as was suggested.
I also definitely do not care for the 3-4 stack that they're using, but that's all been hashed out ad nauseum.
I would use something stronger than the GM sun shell in the kit, but you said you have a Sonnax shell. While I'm pretty neutral on the Sonnax shell, it should be stronger than the GM shell.
I would use an Alto wide carbon band instead of the Borg high-energy. The Borg is a good band, but the extra surface area of the Alto would be a plus for you, especially since you're replacing the R/I drum anyway.
I definitely agree that you'll want someone who knows what they're doing to press in that stator support for you. Hopefully a local transmission shop can handle that for you, but I see guys screw this up all the time.
The Sonnax HD 2-3 shift valve is a decent add, as was suggested. It brings the overrun on in 1st and 2nd when you're in "D", and takes some load off of the input sprag. It will also clean up the WOT 2-3 shift when in "D" by eliminating two clutches having to come on at the same time (overrun and 3-4) .
I agree on the Sonnax .490 boost valve over the Transgo. I, ultimately, prefer a .500" boost valve for the best line pressure curve, but I won't put anything "Transgo" in anything that I build (including any of their "shift kits"). We have our boost valves made for us locally, so we're able to get the .500" that I prefer, plus, we bring in slightly more R/I boost than any of the commercially available valves. But, ultimately, the .010" difference in diameter that we're talking about here is of little consequence. I'd use the Sonnax .490", as was suggested.
I also definitely do not care for the 3-4 stack that they're using, but that's all been hashed out ad nauseum.
I would use something stronger than the GM sun shell in the kit, but you said you have a Sonnax shell. While I'm pretty neutral on the Sonnax shell, it should be stronger than the GM shell.
I would use an Alto wide carbon band instead of the Borg high-energy. The Borg is a good band, but the extra surface area of the Alto would be a plus for you, especially since you're replacing the R/I drum anyway.
I definitely agree that you'll want someone who knows what they're doing to press in that stator support for you. Hopefully a local transmission shop can handle that for you, but I see guys screw this up all the time.
The Sonnax HD 2-3 shift valve is a decent add, as was suggested. It brings the overrun on in 1st and 2nd when you're in "D", and takes some load off of the input sprag. It will also clean up the WOT 2-3 shift when in "D" by eliminating two clutches having to come on at the same time (overrun and 3-4) .
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,913
Likes: 366
From: White Bear, Mn
You asked for it, so here are some thoughts:
I agree on the Sonnax .490 boost valve over the Transgo. I, ultimately, prefer a .500" boost valve for the best line pressure curve, but I won't put anything "Transgo" in anything that I build (including any of their "shift kits"). We have our boost valves made for us locally, so we're able to get the .500" that I prefer, plus, we bring in slightly more R/I boost than any of the commercially available valves. But, ultimately, the .010" difference in diameter that we're talking about here is of little consequence. I'd use the Sonnax .490", as was suggested.
I also definitely do not care for the 3-4 stack that they're using, but that's all been hashed out ad nauseum.
I would use something stronger than the GM sun shell in the kit, but you said you have a Sonnax shell. While I'm pretty neutral on the Sonnax shell, it should be stronger than the GM shell.
I would use an Alto wide carbon band instead of the Borg high-energy. The Borg is a good band, but the extra surface area of the Alto would be a plus for you, especially since you're replacing the R/I drum anyway.
I definitely agree that you'll want someone who knows what they're doing to press in that stator support for you. Hopefully a local transmission shop can handle that for you, but I see guys screw this up all the time.
The Sonnax HD 2-3 shift valve is a decent add, as was suggested. It brings the overrun on in 1st and 2nd when you're in "D", and takes some load off of the input sprag. It will also clean up the WOT 2-3 shift when in "D" by eliminating two clutches having to come on at the same time (overrun and 3-4) .
I agree on the Sonnax .490 boost valve over the Transgo. I, ultimately, prefer a .500" boost valve for the best line pressure curve, but I won't put anything "Transgo" in anything that I build (including any of their "shift kits"). We have our boost valves made for us locally, so we're able to get the .500" that I prefer, plus, we bring in slightly more R/I boost than any of the commercially available valves. But, ultimately, the .010" difference in diameter that we're talking about here is of little consequence. I'd use the Sonnax .490", as was suggested.
I also definitely do not care for the 3-4 stack that they're using, but that's all been hashed out ad nauseum.
I would use something stronger than the GM sun shell in the kit, but you said you have a Sonnax shell. While I'm pretty neutral on the Sonnax shell, it should be stronger than the GM shell.
I would use an Alto wide carbon band instead of the Borg high-energy. The Borg is a good band, but the extra surface area of the Alto would be a plus for you, especially since you're replacing the R/I drum anyway.
I definitely agree that you'll want someone who knows what they're doing to press in that stator support for you. Hopefully a local transmission shop can handle that for you, but I see guys screw this up all the time.
The Sonnax HD 2-3 shift valve is a decent add, as was suggested. It brings the overrun on in 1st and 2nd when you're in "D", and takes some load off of the input sprag. It will also clean up the WOT 2-3 shift when in "D" by eliminating two clutches having to come on at the same time (overrun and 3-4) .
As far as some of the bushings and the stator support I do have someone that can help me out with that if/when needed.
Thanks again and your time will not be wasted, I need all the help I can get lol
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,913
Likes: 366
From: White Bear, Mn
Is there a different kit you would point me towards other than the one I posted? I know it's probably hard to have the "ultimate" kit all in one without piecing everything together yourself but at this time I do not have the experience or knowledge to know what works together with what if that makes any sense....
TECH Junkie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,046
Likes: 713
From: Poplarville, MS
The kit that you supplied a link to is from PBA (Dana) give him a call and he will answer your questions and add/remove things you need. He modifies and mixes in other parts to the TransGo kit. As for the 3-4 clutches, it’s like my daddy would always tell me, “There is more than one way to skin a cat”.
Please no hate post from all of the cat lovers!
One other thing I would change is the TransGo steel rings & priming spring (under 5,500 rpm) kit. I would go with the over 5,500rpm kit.
Please no hate post from all of the cat lovers!
One other thing I would change is the TransGo steel rings & priming spring (under 5,500 rpm) kit. I would go with the over 5,500rpm kit.
Last edited by bbond105; Feb 19, 2016 at 04:34 PM.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 189
Likes: 12
From: Newman Lake, WA
Some just work better than others... There's no doubt that there is no shortage of ways to assemble the 3-4. Believe me, I've seen some pretty bizarre stuff...
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,322
Likes: 528
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Contact the Jeff, the owner, at TruTechTrans. His kits are completely in-line with Dynamic's suggestions. Don't pick one of this listed kits, but call him for a custom kit.
And remind him to become a sponsor here as we really need a sponsor who is happy to sell parts and kits.
And remind him to become a sponsor here as we really need a sponsor who is happy to sell parts and kits.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,114
Likes: 33
From: Fort Worth, Texas
Inspect the stator support for excessive spline wear & damage to the inner sleeve where the input shaft sealing ring lands ride. If no damage is found....Replace the stator bushings & move on. No need to replace the stator for no good reason.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 189
Likes: 12
From: Newman Lake, WA
Contact the Jeff, the owner, at TruTechTrans. His kits are completely in-line with Dynamic's suggestions. Don't pick one of this listed kits, but call him for a custom kit.
And remind him to become a sponsor here as we really need a sponsor who is happy to sell parts and kits.
And remind him to become a sponsor here as we really need a sponsor who is happy to sell parts and kits.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Alright, well I got it out and so far have about 14hrs in the rebuild. Most everything is completely disassembled and cleaned. I have most of the bushings removed and replaced. Have to order a few parts based on my findings once I got it open. I'm in the process now of disassembling the valve and pump body for thorough cleaning and then I can begin installation. I am a little worried because from what I have read I believe the valves are supposed to come out of their bores fairly easy and there were a few that were pretty tight and had to pry quite a bit to get out.
I as well ended up getting a kit from Dana at Pro Built. Ended up going with this one: https://www.700r4l60e.com/store/prod...&cat=55&page=1
The bushings were pretty easy to do and I read a thread on here in relation to the stator shaft replacement that I'm gonna give a shot.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...pump-half.html
I as well ended up getting a kit from Dana at Pro Built. Ended up going with this one: https://www.700r4l60e.com/store/prod...&cat=55&page=1
The bushings were pretty easy to do and I read a thread on here in relation to the stator shaft replacement that I'm gonna give a shot.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...pump-half.html
TECH Resident
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 969
Likes: 119
If the "raised lands" on the aluminum valves are scored, you will need to replace them. If there are more then two aluminum or steel valves that are scored, you might try another valve body. The cause can be "too many miles" and/or a lot of contamination. The aluminum valves cannot be saved in the vast majority of cases, as they are "hardened" to prevent wear. The scored valve can also ruin the valve body bore that it rides in.