Yank's ultimate drag converter?
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From: Houston, TX
Yank's ultimate drag converter? I was looking through their site and under race converter lists these series: Super Thruster, Super Stock, Pro Thruster, Ultra Thruster, and Ultra Yank. I currently have a Super Stock 4000. In my opinion this converter would fall in the street strip category, but everyone has their own perspective. Im looking for something in the race category. Although this converter may have fullfilled others desires, its not what I expected. I have yet to break into the 1.5s. I plan on staying naturally aspirated. The more and more I do to the car, the more its turning into a race car. By all means though, its streetable. I have no problem driving my car around on slicks, skinnies and a 4000 stall. My question is, what do you recommend I get? I still have a free restall on my converter, but I didnt know if raising the stall would make much difference since this converter doesnt have a high STR. Can my converter be reworked to perform like another series they offer? Ex: The PT series. Reason I used the PT series is because I see a lot of people with awesome times using the PT4400. Anyhow, what do you think I should do? Sell mine, buy another one, or get the one I have reworked? Thanks.
Last edited by BlackBeaSSt; Jun 14, 2004 at 03:39 PM.
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From: Houston, TX
Did a little reading on Yank's site and discovered that the Ultra Thruster and Ultra Yank series are out of the question. The UT require shiftpoints to be at least 7200 rpms and the UY require at least 8000 rpms. So I guess my only options as far as different series are the Super Thruster and Pro Thruster. I assume since the Pro Thruster is further down the list, that its more race oriented than the Super Thruster. Anyhow, if the Pro Thruster is what I need, should I go with the 4400 as everyone else does, or should I go with a higher stall? It shows that the next and last stall speed is 4600.
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What about the PT4600? I havent seen anyone's signature with this converter in it, but not everyone puts what they have in their sig. I didnt know why no one was recommending the 4600.
I would guess having the stall flash right to redline gives you little time within your engines usable power range.
I just put a PT4400 in my car and I'll tell you - it's streetable for us hardcore guys but it want's to race!
I'm slipping around town and all of part throttle. The only time it feels like it's hooked up is wide open throttle.
Cruising at 45 mph at like 3000 rpm I floor the gas. It sends the tach right to almost 6000 and pulls the car to catch up! My last converter flased to about 4000 under the same test.
I may even decide it's too much for me and drop back to a PT4000
I need to see if the car still gets the mph at the end of the 1/4 mile.
For you question, ask yourself - what good will a converter that only pulls power above 4600 rpm do for getting down the track? Where is redline on your motor?
Is running from 4500 to 6500 ONLY what I want from the car?
These are the quetions I'm asking myself right now.
I just put a PT4400 in my car and I'll tell you - it's streetable for us hardcore guys but it want's to race!
I'm slipping around town and all of part throttle. The only time it feels like it's hooked up is wide open throttle.
Cruising at 45 mph at like 3000 rpm I floor the gas. It sends the tach right to almost 6000 and pulls the car to catch up! My last converter flased to about 4000 under the same test.
I may even decide it's too much for me and drop back to a PT4000
I need to see if the car still gets the mph at the end of the 1/4 mile.
For you question, ask yourself - what good will a converter that only pulls power above 4600 rpm do for getting down the track? Where is redline on your motor?
Is running from 4500 to 6500 ONLY what I want from the car?
These are the quetions I'm asking myself right now.
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From: South Elgin, IL
FYI, the Super Thruster series is no longer made, too many people had issues with clutch chatter. The SS series is the replacement.
The Pro Thruster series is the Yank converter to have for the track (unless your FI or nitrous). Look at the ET database and you'll see how dominant the PT4400 is. I currently have a ST-3800 and depending how the car does at the track after my H/C swap, I may switch to a PT4400.
The Pro Thruster series is the Yank converter to have for the track (unless your FI or nitrous). Look at the ET database and you'll see how dominant the PT4400 is. I currently have a ST-3800 and depending how the car does at the track after my H/C swap, I may switch to a PT4400.
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What are the differences between the Super Stock series and the Pro Thruster? Do you think that I could have my converter reworked and make it just like a PT4400? Cause if not, then Im going to sell the converter and just buy a brand new one. Im hoping that I can put up a little money and have it reworked, but if not, then I dont have a problem selling the one I have and buying at PT4400. I still have my free restall, but if I was to have it stalled to 4400, would it perform like at Pro Thruster 4400?
The YTP series and SS series are completely different; they are not easily interchanged.
I would run the YTP 4400 for drag. When you are ready to shift above 7200, an 8" converter might make more sense
I would run the YTP 4400 for drag. When you are ready to shift above 7200, an 8" converter might make more sense
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What gear does Yank recommend for this converter? Or what gear would you run? How much should my 60 ft. improve going to this converter from a SS4000 if any? Thanks.
I have seen SOOOOOOO many post by you recently about all kinds of stuff I don't think your sig will help us determine anything. Are you sticking with the baby C2 cam or stepping up with a bigger one? Have you ever had a chance to ATAP the car at track and log some runs? May I ask why you went with a 200-4R trans instead of a 4l60e?
Personally I would go with a YPT4400
Personally I would go with a YPT4400
If you are going for track times, it is time to switch to 4.10s. You can make a long haul to the track with 4.10s (i.e. drive at 70 mph) and cross the traps near peak HP with 4.10s.
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CamaroCain: Dont pay attention to my sig., its what I write in my thread that counts. Ive been talking about getting a bigger cam for quite some time now, so if youve seen SOOO many of my posts, you would know that by now. What I have in my sig. is what I currently have. I dont list what I used to have or what I plan to do. I have not ATAP the car on or off the track. I dont have the funds to purchase a laptop and the program, so in the meantime Im trying to find someone that will do it for me. I went with a 200-4R because the tranny is much lighter, can be built a lot stronger and it is because I got every option, and from what Ive been told/read, its more efficient. Plus, its non electronic, so I didnt have to mess with any wiring, PCM, etc. The only wiring I had to do was for lockup. Ive never had a 4L60E, but Ive raced a friend of mine and I noticed that my tranny is a lot more responsive. What I mean by this is, I heard him floor it, I then floored it, but as his was shifting down, my was already shifted down and going. So for me to hear him floor it, then floor mine, mine was shifted down before his even did so, even though he gased it before mine. Ive read somewhere that the 200-4R is more responsive because its vacuum controlled, but I didnt see how that made a difference from being computer controlled, but now that Ive had personal experience, I see now.
Ragtop 99: 4.10s is what I had in mind, but I even thought about going 4.30s. I wasnt sure if that was too much gear. I dont care too much about streetability. I want a gear thats going to be awesome naturally aspirated, but if I ever wanted to throw a little spray on it later down the road, I would be able to, but for the time being, I want the ultimate drag gear.
Ragtop 99: 4.10s is what I had in mind, but I even thought about going 4.30s. I wasnt sure if that was too much gear. I dont care too much about streetability. I want a gear thats going to be awesome naturally aspirated, but if I ever wanted to throw a little spray on it later down the road, I would be able to, but for the time being, I want the ultimate drag gear.
Done less than 1500 miles. $500 Spray can greatly change your mph and what rpm you'll cross. You can optimize for NA or spray, but generally not both. Your cam choice (and whether you are willing to rev a stock shortblock above 6500 rpm) will also be a factor. Lastly, as you move to all out race, you'll need to focus on your tire size and what gear is needed to optimize that.
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Well Im leaning towards the G5X-2 cam, but I havent decided just yet. Even with my C2 cam, Im shifting around 6500-6600. My limiter is set at 6700 in which I was thinking of raising it to 6800, maybe 6900 to leave room for overshift. I currently have 26x11.5x15 ET Streets and theyre almost worn, so I will be needing a new set of tires, but I dont know what tire I will be going with. More than likely its going to be a true slick. I dont wanna go less than 4.10s, but I also dont know if I should go more than 4.10s. From noticing members signatures, I see alot of them running 4.10s on 26" tall tires. So I assume its putting them at their peak hp or a little above. If that is so and I wanted to spray later, I could throw on some taller tires right? I dont plan on spraying anytime soon, I was just wanting to know for future reference. If I went 4.30s, would spray definately be out of the question no matter what size tire I put on? Thanks.
Yank and PI stall WAY higher than advertised.A friend of mine has a PI 4500, on heads
and cam with 7 cylinders it stalled @ 5500 on the TB. New H/C motor, he sent it in
to be tightened up.It now stalls to 5700 on the brake. WTF?
I have a TCT converter that stalls to 4300 on the trans brake(true stall).
It is a nitrous converter that pulls a 1.47 on motor and 1.30 so far on a 150 shot
hitting the juice AFTER the TB is released.
and cam with 7 cylinders it stalled @ 5500 on the TB. New H/C motor, he sent it in
to be tightened up.It now stalls to 5700 on the brake. WTF?
I have a TCT converter that stalls to 4300 on the trans brake(true stall).
It is a nitrous converter that pulls a 1.47 on motor and 1.30 so far on a 150 shot
hitting the juice AFTER the TB is released.