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I know nothing about transmissions.
I bought this a couple years ago as a used rebuilt that had "upgraded parts".
Its been sitting on my garage floor and I'm finally able to start my LS conversion. So i pull the pan off and I got this....
As you can see, the sides of the pan are clean, but what is the material in the bottom of the pan? It appears to be non-metallic since non of it is sticking to the magnet.
The fluid is sightly dark, but doesn't have a strong odor. Just smells like fluid.
And am I missing a cover or something here?
And one more question...here's two pics of the input shaft. How much movement should there be here? It moves a full 1/8"
It looks like burnt clutch material in the pan and 1/8”, (.125) is way too much endplay. No way I would put that trans in my car without taking it apart for inspection and repair.
Right, the endplay spec is .015 to .035.
The trans has a nice billet 4th gear servo which acts as its own "cover".
Way too much burnt clutch material. The excessive end play will soon be fatal and is an indicator that something was even assembled incorrectly. Like a bearing is missing!
I appreciate the feedback from you knowledgeable folks.
I thought that might be clutch material, and just dumb luck I grabbed a hold of the input shaft.
Now, I'm a DIY'er. Is a rebuild something you'd ever suggest a first timer to attempt? I have a garage full of hand tools, air compressor, press, etc and do all mechanical work myself. But I wouldn't have any trans specialty tools whatever they may be.
I would imagine there's plenty of write ups to be had but some times they leave out a few details. And where would I buy replacement parts or a kit, local Auto parts store?
Back to the pics, Is that billet servo obviously an upgraded piece? Seller also told me it had an upgraded sunshell(?). I would definitely have to educate myself on the parts and procedures.
I appreciate the feedback from you knowledgeable folks.
I thought that might be clutch material, and just dumb luck I grabbed a hold of the input shaft.
Now, I'm a DIY'er. Is a rebuild something you'd ever suggest a first timer to attempt? I have a garage full of hand tools, air compressor, press, etc and do all mechanical work myself. But I wouldn't have any trans specialty tools whatever they may be.
I would imagine there's plenty of write ups to be had but some times they leave out a few details. And where would I buy replacement parts or a kit, local Auto parts store?
Back to the pics, Is that billet servo obviously an upgraded piece? Seller also told me it had an upgraded sunshell(?). I would definitely have to educate myself on the parts and procedures.
Depends how confident you are in your mechanical abilities. You can pretty much do anything with a good internet writeup and 'can do' attitude. That being said, a transmission rebuild is usually something most people would leave for a shop to handle.
My post #2 in this thread has links to various threads to help home DIYers decide if they want to rebuild their trans. Rebuild kits are available from several good sources such as TruTechTrans although we will hopefully have a parts sponsor here soon.
My post #2 in this thread has links to various threads to help home DIYers decide if they want to rebuild their trans. Rebuild kits are available from several good sources such as TruTechTrans although we will hopefully have a parts sponsor here soon.
Looks to be a Sonnax 4th super hold servo, Superior also makes a similar one.
Only you know if you can handle a rebuild, Some people can do it, Some cannot, Purchasing a ATSG manual would be a good idea just to have some basic instructions. Be patient, Take your time & be prepared to have to buy some hard parts in the middle of the build.
It would be best to locate a Trans part wholeseller in your area to buy parts from, (Transtar or WIT).
Seal kit & Bonded piston set.
Borg Warner Friction Module with .080" 3-4's, It comes with 6 3-4's, You will need to purchase a extra .080" friction.....I have no issues with Raybestos frictions, But Borg Warner is OEM.
You will need 6 .076" 3-4 Steels, Plain or Kolene....your choice. This is not an OEM part, The most common brand is Alto.
Borg Warner OEM band, Wide Alto Carbon is also a choice.
10 Vane Pump Kit...Do Not use the Pump Rings in the kit! Use the factory ones out of your unit or Trans-Go "Hi-Rev" rings.
New Pump Slide Pin.
093 "Vette" 2nd servo if you don't already have one.
Sonnax input drum reinforcement kit. 77733-51K, I recommend pressing the Shaft out & applying Loctite retainer compound on the Splines & around the Feed holes & pressing the shaft back in.....Then press the reinforcement sleeve onto the drum.
New Koyo Torrington bearing (Partial) kit. SBK-G12
Separator plate, Fix yours with a Ball Seat repair insert, Or buy a GM or Trans-Go plate.
Borg Warner Forward Sprag & Lo Roller Clutch.
Sonnax Reverse & Forward Abuse Valve plugs, Need 2. 77754-21
Sonnax performance pack. HP-4L60E-01, Do Not install the Accumulator Spring shim, Be conservative with the 2nd feed hole! CX code Accumulator bushing & valve works well with this kit & a medium stall. DX with a high stall. A/AX/B/BX for a stock TMBX converter.
Like TH350 units, I like to shim up the entire assembly when adjusting endplay, Sonnax 77406-10 shims fit on top of the Case Torrington. Add 1 & check endplay with all your new Planets & bearings...Stack like this when checking (Bottom to Top) Leaving out Clutches, Steels, Center Support, Sealing rings, Pump O-ring.....
Case bearing
.010 shim
Reaction support
Bearing
Reaction Carrier
Lo Roller Clutch Inner Race
Thrust washer or Bearing depending on the Sunshell
Reaction Sungear
Sunshell
Bearing (Late rollerized)
Reaction Shaft
Bearing
Input Carrier
Output shaft & snap ring
Input Drum with Forward Sprag assembly & Bearing held in by the Forward clutch backing plate & snap ring.
OEM Selective
Bearing
Reverse Input Drum (does not effect total endplay, But I like to check it's endplay)
Thrust washer (Stick to Stator)
Pump to case gasket
Pump & Stator
Pump bolts at 18 ft. lbs.
Check Endplay, I like around .010
My post #2 in this thread has links to various threads to help home DIYers decide if they want to rebuild their trans. Rebuild kits are available from several good sources such as TruTechTrans although we will hopefully have a parts sponsor here soon.
Wow, excellent write up Clinebarger!
My comments on that:
* Won't a '98 already come with the 13 vane pump?
* I always suggest the Transgo 46-PLT-96 separator plate; a pro knows how to "fix" a plate, but I don't suggest it for a DIYer.
* The sun shell needs to be upgraded as a '98 will have the original weak one. While a new-style ACDelco replacement is good enough, I recommend the Sonnax Smart Shell.
* I suggest that DIYers replace the Reverse Drum unless a pro examines it and tells you it is OK. If you want a wide band, the Reverse Drum absolutely needs to be replaced.
* The stator shaft needs to be inspected to be sure the area where the teflon rings ride is glass smooth. Else it needs to be replaced.
* Many/most of these parts can be bought through a "friendly" local trans shop as they all work with a distributor such as TranStar. Throw them a few dollars for things like cleaning the case and replacing the bushings, and they might then give you advice on things like the condition of the pump halves, reverse drum and other hard parts. And perhaps sell you parts with minimal markup. A trans shop partner is also good for things like replacing the stator shaft, if needed, and installing teflon rings.
Wow, excellent write up Clinebarger!
My comments on that:
* Won't a '98 already come with the 13 vane pump?
* I always suggest the Transgo 46-PLT-96 separator plate; a pro knows how to "fix" a plate, but I don't suggest it for a DIYer.
* The sun shell needs to be upgraded as a '98 will have the original weak one. While a new-style ACDelco replacement is good enough, I recommend the Sonnax Smart Shell.
* I suggest that DIYers replace the Reverse Drum unless a pro examines it and tells you it is OK. If you want a wide band, the Reverse Drum absolutely needs to be replaced.
* The stator shaft needs to be inspected to be sure the area where the teflon rings ride is glass smooth. Else it needs to be replaced.
* Many/most of these parts can be bought through a "friendly" local trans shop as they all work with a distributor such as TranStar. Throw them a few dollars for things like cleaning the case and replacing the bushings, and they might then give you advice on things like the condition of the pump halves, reverse drum and other hard parts. And perhaps sell you parts with minimal markup. A trans shop partner is also good for things like replacing the stator shaft, if needed, and installing teflon rings.
A 10 Vane pump rotor is not as prone to breakage as a 13 vane rotor, And the 10 vane provides a little more volume. This is not a huge deal anyway....But if he need a Rotor & Slide...Go 10 vane.
Agreed, A new plate would be easier.
The OP stated that the sunshell had been upgraded, I like the Smart Shell also.
I included a new Reverse Input Drum in the parts list
Wow, you guys are a great source of knowledge. I really appreciate the responses and I'm sure other members here do too.
As far as the parts list goes, how will I know exactly what I do have?
For example the pic of the servo. You guys recognize it as a possible Sonnax unit, but how will I know this of different parts during dis-assembly?
The seller told me it had a Beast sunshell. Will it be identified some how?
2 years later..... and I finally got this trans looked at. A co-worker has a few rebuilds under his belt and offered to check it out. Here's a couple pics of the input shaft and drum. Hard to tell in the picture but that shaft has a few flat spots on it.
and a crack
So I assume this is the input shaft slop, but why does it happen?
Further investigation and he found this tab broken off near the anti-rattle spring. Is this a show stopper for this case? I didn't find this piece in the pan and he hasn't found it anywhere else either. Its possible the last person put it back together this way. What do you think?
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Am I screwed? 
