As the title says they are complete garbage and the holes aren't drilled with any precision what so ever.

 

How about more details about what model # it is and how many different flexplates you have checked.

 

i had the same issue on my B&M 20340. i had to use a carbide to open the TC bolt hole a bit so i could get the bolts to thread into all 3 holes on the TC. i think it was mainly the 1 oval hole that needed to be made round but i opened up the other 2 a little also. would be a real PITA if you dont have a carbide bit because you dont notice it doesnt fit until the trans is bolted up and you attempt to put the bolts in.

 

Like CoreyR mine is the 20340 and it's pretty much the same issue the holes aren't drilled or spaced correctly. I could get 2 in no problem then the 3rd didn't want to line up.

I spent about 2 hours messing with it and finally got the 3rd bolt to barely line up. I thought maybe I cross threaded the torque converter doing so but I backed it out and checked and it appeared fine. I think the bolt was coming up against the plate and it was just making it nearly impossible to get it.

 

Sometimes you do get what you pay for but for the price the B&M plate is cheap insurance and much stronger than the weak factory 2000+ LS flexplates

The 98/99 LS1 cars had a stronger flexplate, near identical in appearance to the B&M, probably a bit thinner gauge, but mine had done over 70,000 miles street/track with over 500fwhp at the time. 4l60e/4400 yank, then full manual turbo 400. Never broke that flexplate.