Don't know if the tunnels are similar but the 4L80 fit in my '55 210 sedan with room to spare. It's behind a 6.0

No modification necessary other than cutting the old bell housing/frame mounts off that were still in there.

 

Yes thanks

Anyone running an 80e with standalone controller???

Just toying with the idea of fitech/msd/pcs setup.

Don't think I'd really do it .... just like the idea of all standalone controllers... not worrying about ecm flashes and software compatability and $400 ECM tunes

 

That's great info too.
How do you like the setup .... stock 6.0 ?

 

Still under construction, should be running within the next few months though. Not stock though, it has a big turbo

 

yup, running the TCI EZ-TCU. It was a little difficult to get the PCM reading VSS signal since the TCU need to be plugged into the VSS sensor, but Dakota Digital makes a converter. The only downside is there is a slight lag with the speed signal. But other than that I've been happy with how it performs. I still need to configure it a bit as it seems to lockup TCC and unlock TCC frequently while cruising around town, I usually just manually control it with a switch I installed anyways.

 

So using the ECM for ignition and timing and fueling?
I thought if I went with a full standalone TCU I'd go standalone efi ....fitech ...... and ignition..... MSD

Saw a nice looking 6.0 block without harness and ECM..... for an OK price is what had me thinking a little more that route ....... but not sure..... decisions decisions

Good to know the EZ TCU works OK for you ......

 

Dam.
Wife walked in with her sexy stuff on whilst I was look looking at this ...... was a really confusing moment ....*jk*

Good cclearance to front panel on side?
Support for turbo ?

 

It would have been easier without the A/C but I'm too old and fat not to have A/C.......it's tight but clear

Turbo is supported off the frame

 

Nice.
I used to run twin turbos on my cummins truck. Was a blast to drive - but they made prefabbed kits and there was room to run them on on top of other without too much drama and tie into normal single exhaust back.

 

yeah, basically left stock PCM alone, and changed transmission to manual in HPtuners.

If you're starting from scratch full standalone would be the way to go. Being In California for me with a California registered car I have to abide by all the commiefornian laws . So I didn't want to risk flashing to a truck firmware on my PCM to control the 4l80e... also I want paddle shifters

 

Paddle shifters would be cool.
I think for my truck look I want to go retro on shifter though ...... something like

https://farm7.staticflickr.com/6037/...160e9c5a_z.jpg

but on a shorter shifter

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-ats64l80bn



Would you use TCI-EZ ECU again ?? ......... I was looking at PCS

https://www.powertraincontrolsolutio...ller/TCM-2300/

 

yeah I'd use the TCI EZ-TCU again. The handheld programming unit was a really nice feature to help with getting everything configured how I wanted it. I see that PCS TCU just uses dials and flashing LEDs which I feel would be very limited or difficult compared to the display TCI has. When I was looking at TCUs it was between the TCI and Compushift II but I couldn't justify the price of the Compushift compared the TCI. Hooking up the EZ-TCU was very simple and getting it to recognize tach and TPS was very easy. The wiring harness on the TCI was also very nice and well thought-out where all the different connections go. Only thing I would complain about the TCI unit is that I'd like a little more parameters on the handheld unit that the user can modify like how you can on HPTuners. Also if the handheld unit was a little more compact or setup for a gauge pod 52mm size that would have been awesome! TCI hint hint

 

Thanks.

 

4L60E to 4L80E.....affect on 1/4 mile times.

You know what I can do. I get back home from the Middle East in November. I will drive to Moroso Motorsports Park and run the 1/4 mile a couple times with my N/A 390ci. Then I will drive back and have my 4L80E installed. probably take 2 weeks because my installer can only work on my car on the weekends at the Chrysler dealer he works at.

Then I will go back and run the 1/4 mile again...

We'll see what it does in a set up where ALL ELSE will be be kept the same except the tranny swap.

.

 

Now that would/will be interesting ^^^

 

I'll do it.....I get home November 20th. I'll go to Moroso the following weekend.

.

 

This thread shows the dyno numbers before and after a 4L60E to 4L80E swap - ONLY 6HP was lost.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...questions.html

And the actual weights without a converter:
4L60e = 137 lbs
4L80e = 178 lbs

While the 4L80E case fits many vehicles, the swap sometimes requires hammering a space for the electrical connector and/or cooling lines.

 

Interesting thread.
Not sure how to read the dyno in terms of "shifts" though. Good to know if setup your not going to lose HP or anything significant due to rotational mass ..... just dont know what it does in terms of say staying in 1st longer ....... or a drop in RPM thats too significant .... would think that would show up in the dyno graph .... but not sure how to read it ....from that standpoint

 

The dyno chart isn't going to show shifts unless they specifically recorded that, normally a dyno is going to show powerband in 1 gear and since 3rd is a 1:1 on both transmissions I'd assume that's what gear they did the pull on. Having a taller first gear means you will stay in that gear longer, for example if both cars have same tire height and same say 3.23 rear end, 4l60e with 3.06 first will shift to second WOT @ 5500RPM @ 42MPH while with the 4l80e with 2.48 first will shift to second WOT @5500RPM @ 55MPH so you're staying in that gear longer. A significant RPM drop comes from the large difference in the 4l60e first of 3.06 to 1.62 vs the 4l80e going from 2.48 to 1.48. so 4l60e WOT second gear shift will drop to 3000 RPM whereas the 4l80e will WOT second gear shift will drop to 3300 RPM. This is all negating the efficiency of a torque converter but you should be able to get the idea.

 

Makes sense. Wouldn't the 4l80e dropping to 3300 (instead of 3000) in your example above though mean that its in the power curve better ? So be better (marginally) for street etc ?