4l60e question
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,892
Likes: 253
From: Ft. Wayne, IN
Hey guys, I have a question.
Short summary of the setup- I have a relatively stock 60e other then a shift kit, cooler, deep pan, with 20k miles. I have had a FTI 3800 stall installed for 4-5yrs that I installed around 14k miles...around 17k miles I did H/C/I.
The trans has held up surprisingly well to 7k shifts. I however started to notice a cyclic type vibration about a year ago. I decided to pull the starter and inspection cover and found the converter bolts were loose...not backed out, just no tq. So I loctited them and tq'd them to 50ft lbs. Vibration is gone...perfect!
Now I am getting a little trans fluid leaking from what appears to be the front of the trans. I am guessing front pump seal? It's not much, just enough to leave a small spot on the floor if the car sits for a bit.
I hate to pull it when it still shifts great, but if I do I am going to send it to RPM and have it built.
Just curious if you think the vibration caused the front pump seal to take a beating? Or is it just a sign the 60e is about to tap out?
Thanks.
Short summary of the setup- I have a relatively stock 60e other then a shift kit, cooler, deep pan, with 20k miles. I have had a FTI 3800 stall installed for 4-5yrs that I installed around 14k miles...around 17k miles I did H/C/I.
The trans has held up surprisingly well to 7k shifts. I however started to notice a cyclic type vibration about a year ago. I decided to pull the starter and inspection cover and found the converter bolts were loose...not backed out, just no tq. So I loctited them and tq'd them to 50ft lbs. Vibration is gone...perfect!
Now I am getting a little trans fluid leaking from what appears to be the front of the trans. I am guessing front pump seal? It's not much, just enough to leave a small spot on the floor if the car sits for a bit.
I hate to pull it when it still shifts great, but if I do I am going to send it to RPM and have it built.
Just curious if you think the vibration caused the front pump seal to take a beating? Or is it just a sign the 60e is about to tap out?
Thanks.
Seems plausible that the vibration from a loose converter beat the seal, which can be replace with the trans in the car.
However it may also have beat the front pump bushing, which cannot be replaced without opening the trans.
Assuming you don't drive the car in the winter and want it working perfectly next year, this might be a good time to send it to RPM for a rebuild.
However it may also have beat the front pump bushing, which cannot be replaced without opening the trans.
Assuming you don't drive the car in the winter and want it working perfectly next year, this might be a good time to send it to RPM for a rebuild.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,892
Likes: 253
From: Ft. Wayne, IN
Seems plausible that the vibration from a loose converter beat the seal, which can be replace with the trans in the car.
However it may also have beat the front pump bushing, which cannot be replaced without opening the trans.
Assuming you don't drive the car in the winter and want it working perfectly next year, this might be a good time to send it to RPM for a rebuild.
However it may also have beat the front pump bushing, which cannot be replaced without opening the trans.
Assuming you don't drive the car in the winter and want it working perfectly next year, this might be a good time to send it to RPM for a rebuild.
Thought about it but I really want to keep over drive. It's just a street car, more cruising then racing.
Sorry, I wasn't thinking clearly and meant that the trans didn't need to be opened to replace only the seal.
BUT technically, I've seen people remove the driveshaft, trans mount and move the trans back, without fully removing it.
Yes of course the converter needs to be removed.
BUT technically, I've seen people remove the driveshaft, trans mount and move the trans back, without fully removing it.
Yes of course the converter needs to be removed.








