4L60E converter question
I second circle D, they offer budget converters as well as entry level and great performance converters. Plus customer service is top notch! I contacted them about a month ago and they answered all of my questions and helped me along the way. I now have a circle D converter, along with a b&m cooler waiting for me to install when I get around to it in the next month or so.
to OP,I've put this on other threads here and on other forums.
The 'flash' rpms on the graph are for various convertors. For the OEM 1800 convertor,it's 'flash engaging' at about 100hp. For a 2500 convertor,it would be 'flash engaging' at about 145hp of the power curve. for a 3000 convertor,it would be 'flash engaging' at about 175hp of the power curve. For a 3600 convertor,it would be 'flash engaging' at about 210hp of the power curve. 'Flash engaging' is at WOT and instead of having to climb thru the gear to a higher hp part of the curve,it 'flashes' to there and you don't have to waste time at/in the lower part of the hp curve. But for normal in city driving,a good convertor will act similar to the OEM until you go to WOT.
DO IT ONCE WITH THE RIGHT CONVERTOR OR BE UNHAPPY WITH THE WRONG ONE.
The 'flash' rpms on the graph are for various convertors. For the OEM 1800 convertor,it's 'flash engaging' at about 100hp. For a 2500 convertor,it would be 'flash engaging' at about 145hp of the power curve. for a 3000 convertor,it would be 'flash engaging' at about 175hp of the power curve. For a 3600 convertor,it would be 'flash engaging' at about 210hp of the power curve. 'Flash engaging' is at WOT and instead of having to climb thru the gear to a higher hp part of the curve,it 'flashes' to there and you don't have to waste time at/in the lower part of the hp curve. But for normal in city driving,a good convertor will act similar to the OEM until you go to WOT.
DO IT ONCE WITH THE RIGHT CONVERTOR OR BE UNHAPPY WITH THE WRONG ONE.
I have a heads and cam ls3 and using a Yank psa 3400 on the street and just send it out to re stall to 3800 cause is too tight it pulls at the light so to the OP who seems like doesn't want to over do it I definitely recommend this converter.
The beauty about it is at wide open throttle on the dyno starts out like 3100 with great torque and going down the road 30/40 mph flashes to 4600 on the hit which is just awesome.
The beauty about it is at wide open throttle on the dyno starts out like 3100 with great torque and going down the road 30/40 mph flashes to 4600 on the hit which is just awesome.
I talked to the guys at Circle D and they said the entry level 3000-3200 stall should be fine. I just wanted to check with a performance shop by me to see what their thoughts were. I see everyone with these 4th gens running 3000-3600 stall so I guess I should be right there with them. Just wanted to make sure my minor mods would still require this stall.
A stock horsepower LS1 4th gen(with either 2.73s' or 3.23s') benefits the most with a GOOD 3600-4000 convertor.
I should have mine up and running soon and If you haven't ordered a convertor at that time yet,and since you're close,I'll come over and let you drive it(3.23s'/Yank SS3600).
I should have mine up and running soon and If you haven't ordered a convertor at that time yet,and since you're close,I'll come over and let you drive it(3.23s'/Yank SS3600).
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Verdad Gallardo That would be sweet, I am bringing my car home today then waiting on my wiring guy to install the harness. After that it will be time to get my converter. Since you are local, the info I got about going with a 2400 stall was from Gellner on Brookpark.
Drove through the suburbs with a little stop and go and it seemed just fine. You could tell there was some stall, but really no driving issues at all. I don't know how different it would of felt with a cam in it, but none the less, it showed me what it feels like. I will be calling Circle-D today to order mine.
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From: White Bear, Mn