Well I had the trans bolted up to the block measured for shims and was ready to bolt converter up and decided to give the converter one more spin and one of the pads was hitting the mounting pad on the flex plate!

After I , I looked further into the mounting of the new flex plate and found this.
The center counter sunk part that bolts to the crank hits the square part on the end of my crank shaft!
Like it's too deep!
You can see it go from nothing in the bottom of the 1st pic to the top where it interferes with the flex plate pushing it back towards the trans.
You can see in the last pic where I could get a pencil in between the iol pan and the crank.
It looks almost like I need a flat pan.

 

Sorry I don't understand the pics nor your description nor what "I need a flat pan" means.
Is the flex plate bent?
Is the flexplate on back-asswards?

Remind us again what engine and trans you have.

 

406 sbc 4L80E

Ok, 1st picture is shot from pass side looking at the back of the flex plate/crankshaft.
If you look closely,from bottom to the top you will notice it go from nothing to something.
2nd picture is of the rear of the crank and the "round" part and the part that is set back but not enough to clear the square part of the crank.
3rd picture shoes where the square part interferes with the flex plate thus bending/pushing the flex plate towards the trans.
The pencil mark where I'm pointing to is where it hits.
It's like the round bend in the middle where the crank goes is to deep for the crank.
For arguments sake, lets say it's .125" and it should be .050" to clear the crank lobe.
If you look above my dirty finger, you will see the "engine side" sticker.

 

I'm going to say yes it's bent. so was the one I took off but it didn't "click" at the time I swapped the 80 in.
So that means i went a 10.6 with a bent flex plate and probably wobbling 8" treemaster AND i've been driving it like that for 5yrs!.
Never noticed it.
The "flat" flex plate is not stamped. The disc in the middle is flush where the mounting stampings would be on a stamped one.

https://www.holley.com/products/driv...s/parts/RM-902

 

Hopefully someone can help you with this combo because I cannot.

 

So your installing an 80E on a gen one SB. Which FW is the new one?
I wonder if you have a FW for a 1 piece seal, I forget what they look like compared to the 2 piece.
Do you have a stock FW to look at, I might have one in the garage.

 

Forced, I already installed it. I have 500mi on it.
The converter was too tight at idle for my cam so I sent it back to be corrected.
It's a 6F now.
While the trans was out, I figured I'd change the flex plate too.
It's been in there for 5+ years now.
As you can see, there's a HUGE difference in the dept where it mounts to the crank.
To the tone of .0360"
This is where the lobe hit's the crank.
Old flex is the lighter color and .030"

 

Is it possible to over tighten the flex plate bolts thus making it out of wack?
I think I went to 85#'s

 

Ok. I installed the original flex plate and have roughly .040+" to the weight on back of the crank.
I torqued them to 65# and all the gaps look good!
I guess I most have gorilla'd them originally when I put the engine in.

 

That strong huh!
I won't ever disagree with you, at least not in person.
Did you even need a hoist to put the engine in?

Seriously, glad to hear you figured it out.

 

Thanks,
Yeah , I cant explain it...maybe, stupid is a stupid does?
Thank god I have a lift! I would have given up long ago on my back.
I just want to drive the thing.
I am getting good at taking it in and out now.
This time by myself.