Help confirming cracked flywheel noise?
Help confirming cracked flywheel noise? I hope its the flywheel and not the transmission. Although I am taking precaution and picking up a another 4l80e this weekend regardless.
Only makes this noise in neutral/park, and only after full warming up, after a while. If I shut the engine off for a minute and restart it goes away for a while sometimes. Fluid color has material- I am unfamiliar with 4l80e and this could be the shavings of a bad bearing/bushing in the transmission, what I am mistaking for normal clutch material?
Trans shifts normal, but I did lose TCC lockup and throw code 1860. This may or may not be related. I think the problem is in the harness somewhere, because I just changed the TCCsolenoid itself and the TCC problem remains.
Only makes this noise in neutral/park, and only after full warming up, after a while. If I shut the engine off for a minute and restart it goes away for a while sometimes. Fluid color has material- I am unfamiliar with 4l80e and this could be the shavings of a bad bearing/bushing in the transmission, what I am mistaking for normal clutch material?
Trans shifts normal, but I did lose TCC lockup and throw code 1860. This may or may not be related. I think the problem is in the harness somewhere, because I just changed the TCCsolenoid itself and the TCC problem remains.
In case anyone is curious, the owner of "Yank converters" spent the time to look at my video and admits it sounds like the flexplate is broken. So this is good news. Will update with solutions....
follow up!
So I pulled the trans and changed the flexplate and rear main seal about 2 months ago.
The old flexplate looked fine though. However, the engine ran SO much better with the new flexplate. I can't explain it but its like it is smoother and faster. But, I still had the stupid noise from the videos above. I drove it like this for a while but it was scary hearing that noise.
So yesterday I swapped the trans front pump for a rebuild unit on ebay. I got the special puller tool from ebay for 50~ and watched a video of a guy pulling it out first. Seemed easy enough.
Procedure:
1. Setup the trans more or less upright. You can see in the videos they use a special holder but I just bought a $9 walmart bin and set it down in there on some boxes and packing matrels (yes matrels).
2. bolts were not very tight around the pump maybe 17-24 ft*lbs
3. It "pops out" with the tool, but then it will hang up on the input shaft O-ring.
4. So remove the input shaft O-ring,
5. pump slides out.
6. New pump, line it up, and then go in circular motion with the bolts, little by little. I had to go around the pump approx 15 times, so I hit each bolt 15 times at least, turning it little by little to get the pump to sit down in there.
6.5 You don't need to pull the pan. I only took it off to check the wiring harness in the trans since it was out anyways.
7. take a picture of the pump face before you start. It hangs out from the case a little bit so it can be deceiving (is it in all the way?) I had a spare 4l80e sitting there with me just in case I needed another trans after this LOL so I just compared them.
Results: No more "death rattle" from the warm pump in neutral! yay
Now, I can turn up the boost...
So I pulled the trans and changed the flexplate and rear main seal about 2 months ago.
The old flexplate looked fine though. However, the engine ran SO much better with the new flexplate. I can't explain it but its like it is smoother and faster. But, I still had the stupid noise from the videos above. I drove it like this for a while but it was scary hearing that noise.
So yesterday I swapped the trans front pump for a rebuild unit on ebay. I got the special puller tool from ebay for 50~ and watched a video of a guy pulling it out first. Seemed easy enough.
Procedure:
1. Setup the trans more or less upright. You can see in the videos they use a special holder but I just bought a $9 walmart bin and set it down in there on some boxes and packing matrels (yes matrels).
2. bolts were not very tight around the pump maybe 17-24 ft*lbs
3. It "pops out" with the tool, but then it will hang up on the input shaft O-ring.
4. So remove the input shaft O-ring,
5. pump slides out.
6. New pump, line it up, and then go in circular motion with the bolts, little by little. I had to go around the pump approx 15 times, so I hit each bolt 15 times at least, turning it little by little to get the pump to sit down in there.
6.5 You don't need to pull the pan. I only took it off to check the wiring harness in the trans since it was out anyways.
7. take a picture of the pump face before you start. It hangs out from the case a little bit so it can be deceiving (is it in all the way?) I had a spare 4l80e sitting there with me just in case I needed another trans after this LOL so I just compared them.
Results: No more "death rattle" from the warm pump in neutral! yay
Now, I can turn up the boost...
