Help confirming cracked flywheel noise?
10-15-2017, 11:33 AM
#1
Help confirming cracked flywheel noise? I hope its the flywheel and not the transmission. Although I am taking precaution and picking up a another 4l80e this weekend regardless.
Only makes this noise in neutral/park, and only after full warming up, after a while. If I shut the engine off for a minute and restart it goes away for a while sometimes. Fluid color has material- I am unfamiliar with 4l80e and this could be the shavings of a bad bearing/bushing in the transmission, what I am mistaking for normal clutch material?
Trans shifts normal, but I did lose TCC lockup and throw code 1860. This may or may not be related. I think the problem is in the harness somewhere, because I just changed the TCCsolenoid itself and the TCC problem remains.
Only makes this noise in neutral/park, and only after full warming up, after a while. If I shut the engine off for a minute and restart it goes away for a while sometimes. Fluid color has material- I am unfamiliar with 4l80e and this could be the shavings of a bad bearing/bushing in the transmission, what I am mistaking for normal clutch material?
Trans shifts normal, but I did lose TCC lockup and throw code 1860. This may or may not be related. I think the problem is in the harness somewhere, because I just changed the TCCsolenoid itself and the TCC problem remains.
02-04-2018, 11:45 AM
#4
follow up!
So I pulled the trans and changed the flexplate and rear main seal about 2 months ago.
The old flexplate looked fine though. However, the engine ran SO much better with the new flexplate. I can't explain it but its like it is smoother and faster. But, I still had the stupid noise from the videos above. I drove it like this for a while but it was scary hearing that noise.
So yesterday I swapped the trans front pump for a rebuild unit on ebay. I got the special puller tool from ebay for 50~ and watched a video of a guy pulling it out first. Seemed easy enough.
Procedure:
1. Setup the trans more or less upright. You can see in the videos they use a special holder but I just bought a $9 walmart bin and set it down in there on some boxes and packing matrels (yes matrels).
2. bolts were not very tight around the pump maybe 17-24 ft*lbs
3. It "pops out" with the tool, but then it will hang up on the input shaft O-ring.
4. So remove the input shaft O-ring,
5. pump slides out.
6. New pump, line it up, and then go in circular motion with the bolts, little by little. I had to go around the pump approx 15 times, so I hit each bolt 15 times at least, turning it little by little to get the pump to sit down in there.
6.5 You don't need to pull the pan. I only took it off to check the wiring harness in the trans since it was out anyways.
7. take a picture of the pump face before you start. It hangs out from the case a little bit so it can be deceiving (is it in all the way?) I had a spare 4l80e sitting there with me just in case I needed another trans after this LOL so I just compared them.
Results: No more "death rattle" from the warm pump in neutral! yay
Now, I can turn up the boost...
So I pulled the trans and changed the flexplate and rear main seal about 2 months ago.
The old flexplate looked fine though. However, the engine ran SO much better with the new flexplate. I can't explain it but its like it is smoother and faster. But, I still had the stupid noise from the videos above. I drove it like this for a while but it was scary hearing that noise.
So yesterday I swapped the trans front pump for a rebuild unit on ebay. I got the special puller tool from ebay for 50~ and watched a video of a guy pulling it out first. Seemed easy enough.
Procedure:
1. Setup the trans more or less upright. You can see in the videos they use a special holder but I just bought a $9 walmart bin and set it down in there on some boxes and packing matrels (yes matrels).
2. bolts were not very tight around the pump maybe 17-24 ft*lbs
3. It "pops out" with the tool, but then it will hang up on the input shaft O-ring.
4. So remove the input shaft O-ring,
5. pump slides out.
6. New pump, line it up, and then go in circular motion with the bolts, little by little. I had to go around the pump approx 15 times, so I hit each bolt 15 times at least, turning it little by little to get the pump to sit down in there.
6.5 You don't need to pull the pan. I only took it off to check the wiring harness in the trans since it was out anyways.
7. take a picture of the pump face before you start. It hangs out from the case a little bit so it can be deceiving (is it in all the way?) I had a spare 4l80e sitting there with me just in case I needed another trans after this LOL so I just compared them.
Results: No more "death rattle" from the warm pump in neutral! yay
Now, I can turn up the boost...