Braided Transmission Lines keep springing leaks
Braided Transmission Lines keep springing leaks I have a trans cooler mounted infront of my condenser and a set of braided lines made by a shop that attaches to my stock trans lines and feeds into the cooler and back. Well.. After the initial install they worked flawlessly for nearly 2 years but then they sprung a leak near the coupling. No big deal, shop warrantied it and fixed it.. Well about 6 months later.. I'm driving and suddenly the whole cabin reeks of trans fluid so when I park I check under and sure enough the same cooler lines are dripping. I havent gotten under yet to see if its the same coupling, however; is there something I might be missing? Are braided lines OKAY for transmission fluid?
Also, is there any specific type of hose and material of hose I should be using that might not be on there thus causing this problem?
Also, is there any specific type of hose and material of hose I should be using that might not be on there thus causing this problem?
Last edited by Need4Camaro; Feb 18, 2018 at 09:58 PM.
The cooling circuit is not high pressure. Hard to say if you will need different fittings without knowing what you have now, but it seems like a lot of PTFE hose needs a specific fitting. Just get the hose and ends from the same place. They should say what ends work with the PTFE hose.
Trending Topics
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,148
Likes: 53
From: Saskatchewan, Canada - where arguing "DA" is for the slow and weak...
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Yup, thats what they used.
As for the clamp.. can you show me an example? I don't know what clamps they use for braided lines. That or what kind of fittings do I need?
Edit: Actually can you show me exactly what kind of fitting I need?
As for the clamp.. can you show me an example? I don't know what clamps they use for braided lines. That or what kind of fittings do I need?
Edit: Actually can you show me exactly what kind of fitting I need?
Last edited by Need4Camaro; Feb 20, 2018 at 01:17 PM.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FUEL-INJECT...pXqEoD&vxp=mtr
Select the right size for your application.
It's for safety, and that's always an advantage to me. Teflon/PTFE is more resistant to trans fluid (or any other fluid) than other material that hose is typically made out of. I'm using it because I needed to buy AN ends anyway, so it was minimal additional cost for a bulletproof setup.
Well. What I am after is the most reliable setup. The reason I have braided lines down there to begin with is because several years ago the rubber lines exploded and left me on the side of the road and shortened the life of my older A4. I have a $3,000 built FLT behind the motor right now and I absolutely can't risk one of those lines coming apart and ruining my investment so if I have to pay alittle then I'm game.
I attached the images of what's down there now. It's the lines on the bottom (not the radiator) that is leaking.
Can anyone show me exactly what I would need?
I attached the images of what's down there now. It's the lines on the bottom (not the radiator) that is leaking.
Can anyone show me exactly what I would need?
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Those arent pushloks. You need to see where its leaking from, the threaded part or the part they assembled. You probably just need to tighten them a hair, thats a common issue.
Well. What I am after is the most reliable setup. The reason I have braided lines down there to begin with is because several years ago the rubber lines exploded and left me on the side of the road and shortened the life of my older A4. I have a $3,000 built FLT behind the motor right now and I absolutely can't risk one of those lines coming apart and ruining my investment so if I have to pay alittle then I'm game.
Yeah, you've got AN lines. Which are good but can be finicky. I just did mine for the first time a few months ago and guess what? Had a leak. I was able to fix it on the car but I def didnt get any warm and fuzzy feelings from those hoses. Look damn nice though.
I like NEstyle's advice above. Now that you know how long and what bends you need.
I like NEstyle's advice above. Now that you know how long and what bends you need.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,220
Likes: 179
From: Virginia
Try some thread tape, Teflon works perfectly fine. I just get the yellow type at Lowes, and it's good for fuel or any other petroleum product. I have braided lines everywhere on my car. All my oil lines, vacuum lines, trans lines, and fuel pressure line. The only thing you need ptfe for is fuel applications. The rest is rubber, and perfectly fine for synthetic or petroleum products.
I work on helicopters for a living. We have braided everything, at over 3000 psi in some applications. Even fuel lines aren't ptfe style locks in every case. ALL AN (which stands for Air Force Navy, previously Army Navy). It's where the idea came from. I can speak with confidence, even on helicopters I have used a little Teflon a few times to fix an issue, though normally we just replace the entire line. It's not our money though, and we don't care on the aviation side about cost of parts over safety of the aircraft.
On my car, though, I just use the tape. I don't have the money to keep throwing parts at something. The fittings should also have tape on them, so the NPT doesn't get completely stuck in the threads. I bought a total of 3 B&M super coolers, only two were installed. Ask me how I know an aluminum fitting can get stuck in a NPT port. Let's just say one of them is no longer with us, bless it's soul.
I work on helicopters for a living. We have braided everything, at over 3000 psi in some applications. Even fuel lines aren't ptfe style locks in every case. ALL AN (which stands for Air Force Navy, previously Army Navy). It's where the idea came from. I can speak with confidence, even on helicopters I have used a little Teflon a few times to fix an issue, though normally we just replace the entire line. It's not our money though, and we don't care on the aviation side about cost of parts over safety of the aircraft.
On my car, though, I just use the tape. I don't have the money to keep throwing parts at something. The fittings should also have tape on them, so the NPT doesn't get completely stuck in the threads. I bought a total of 3 B&M super coolers, only two were installed. Ask me how I know an aluminum fitting can get stuck in a NPT port. Let's just say one of them is no longer with us, bless it's soul.
It sounds like you don't want to mess around. Get some hose made at a local hydraulics place or go to any big named vendor that sells hoses and buy their Teflon/PTFE lined hose with the ends made for that hose. Earls, Russell, XRP, Aeroquip, whatever. I used Orme Brothers. You can call them, give them dimensions, and they will make and ship Teflon lined hoses ready to install.
Yeah, you've got AN lines. Which are good but can be finicky. I just did mine for the first time a few months ago and guess what? Had a leak. I was able to fix it on the car but I def didnt get any warm and fuzzy feelings from those hoses. Look damn nice though.
I like NEstyle's advice above. Now that you know how long and what bends you need.
I like NEstyle's advice above. Now that you know how long and what bends you need.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,220
Likes: 179
From: Virginia
You can have the lines made if you wish. I just bought all the stuff so I can build them myself. A pair of magnetic vise clamps, and a set of good shears will set you back about 50 bucks, total. If you are pulling the lines, just order some new fittings, which are usually pretty cheap, and cut off the current ones. Some are reusable, but new ones aren't so expensive as to not just go ahead and replace.
It's super easy once you get the hang of it. Just wrap the spot you wish to add the new fittings (right behind the old ones) with some good electrical tape, or other style tape (duct tape) and cut it right in middle of the tape. It can be done with a hacksaw too, but you will have to trim the strands with some cutters. I just leave the tape on and put the new fittings right over it.
Put the fitting on the end of the hose, and leave about 1/16" or so of room there at the end where it butts up. Lock the fitting and line into your vise. I always just get the line and fitting clamped in at the same time by running the hose down a little so the vise catches it and holds it for me. Then simply thread in the new one. Make sure you lube it with some oil or trans fluid and you'll be good to go. Run it all the way in and keep an eye on the line to ensure it's not getting pushed out of the barrel.
In my opinion it's simply better to know how to make these things, as the cost will remain very, very low. I always have a bunch of extra fittings laying around for projects, and extra line too. I usually "stock" -6, -8, and -10 lines and fittings, just in case I decide to change something down the road. I can have a replacement line made in as little as 10 minutes.
It's super easy once you get the hang of it. Just wrap the spot you wish to add the new fittings (right behind the old ones) with some good electrical tape, or other style tape (duct tape) and cut it right in middle of the tape. It can be done with a hacksaw too, but you will have to trim the strands with some cutters. I just leave the tape on and put the new fittings right over it.
Put the fitting on the end of the hose, and leave about 1/16" or so of room there at the end where it butts up. Lock the fitting and line into your vise. I always just get the line and fitting clamped in at the same time by running the hose down a little so the vise catches it and holds it for me. Then simply thread in the new one. Make sure you lube it with some oil or trans fluid and you'll be good to go. Run it all the way in and keep an eye on the line to ensure it's not getting pushed out of the barrel.
In my opinion it's simply better to know how to make these things, as the cost will remain very, very low. I always have a bunch of extra fittings laying around for projects, and extra line too. I usually "stock" -6, -8, and -10 lines and fittings, just in case I decide to change something down the road. I can have a replacement line made in as little as 10 minutes.