Easy assuming you have an adjustable torque arm.

 

BMR Extreme Cross-member mounted and it is adjustable.

Strangely enough...setting pinion angle is something I know absolutely nothing about.

if I’m planning to raise my rear end 1/2” with spacers will it affect my pinion angle after it’s set...?

 

We are going to have to get into far more in-depth questions then...

Because the 4L80E can make for a faster pass than a 4L60E under the correct circumstances...
Just as the 4L60E can make for a faster pass than a 4L80E under the correct circumstances...

The shape, amplitude, and the duration of the torque and HP graphs are a major factor as is:
-Torque Converter type, size, weight, design, and features
-Vehicle type (body shape in relation to drag)
-Vehicle weight
-Vehicle weight balance
-Vehicle wheel-base
-Vehicle length
-Vehicle height
-Quantity of drive wheels
-Location of drive wheels
-Bias of drive wheels
-Type of suspension for drive wheels
-Type of differential/s
-Quantity of differentials or transfer-case/ PTO components
-Type of suspension for non-drive wheels
-Type of wheel and tire combinations (in relation to traction and to drag)
-Tunability of componets:
Moving weight from front to back on the vehicle or vice versa
Changing torque converter torque multiplication ratio, stall speeds, and RPM drop after shift
Changing suspension angles
Changing drive angles
Changing tire size and air pressure

And... I am going to stop.
This list could simply just go on and on.

My point is that with either transmission; certain vehicle setups will end up with one unit or the other being faster.
Neither transmission is ultimately a faster transmission than the other.

The 40 Lbs weight difference is almost insignificant...
Also when I replace every thrust washer with a roller bearing and lighten the planetary gear sets in the 3L80/ 4L80E units... I do not lose any power compared to a stock 4L60E and often gain power over an early unit/ THM700-R4.

 

 

Yes King Talon, please just stop. Talking about drag and quantity of drive wheels when the discussion is apples to apples ONLY swapping a 4l60e to a 4l80e, seriously??? A higher numerical gear provides more torque multiplication, just like a steeper rear gear, which means more torque available at the pavement. If you can't hook the additional torque, that is not the transmissions fault. End of story.

 

Jeez....even I can do that.....

If I can find an angle tool today I can adjust it while its in the air at the exhaust shop today.

Thanks.

 

 

Or is it lol ...… Nobody mention the variation in wind velocity occurring along a direction at right angles to the wind's direction and tending to exert a turning force.

 

Now I know where ulcers come from

 

Jeez......nobody carries these damn angle locator tools. Only friggin Harbor Freight........30 min away from me. The one at Lowes, everyone says is a pile-o-****.

 

Download the Tremec App It has an angle finder built in that works with most phones.

 

Well...that was easy......got it. Thanks.

Why do I skip the driveshaft measurement if I have an adjustable Torque Arm?

I only need to do the crank pulley and the rear end via placing the angle tool on the flat part of the TQ Arm in the rear....???? Why...? Like that BMR video says to do....why do I skip the driveshaft?

I'm assuming you can still measure all three using a different formula and it'll come up with the same end result to set everything too. I guess.....crank pulley angle - 2 = Rear end angle to set......is as easy as it gets....LOL

 

I never use driveshaft angle except on lifted 4wds where the working angle of the shaft can be a concern.
I use the engine and trans angle compared to pinion angle and never had a vibration problem.

 

Ok cool. So read the crank pulley.....subtract two......Then set that number on the Torque Arm back by the rear yoke.

Thanks.