Just want to preface this post with the following, I have done my research on this and I'm not asking you guys to do this for me. I'm new to the LS swap game and I need your input/advice on the my converter choice. This is the info on my build, hoping to achieve 415-425 hp and equivalent torque

- 1966 Buick Electra 225, 4500 pounds with Buick 3.07 gears. Buick Gears are hard to find so I'm stuck with these.
- LQ9 - mostly stock except BTR V2 Stage 2 Cam - @.50 212/218, net lift intake/exhaust .553/.553, Centerline 111/111 and LSA 111

Do not want to cheap out torque computer with a complete engine and transmission build, here are my options: FTI - suggested SR series 9.5' 2600 stall with billet front and Yank - suggested SS3200, 9.5" with billet front.

Know that both are great products, but my question is what's the difference between a 2600 stall and 3200 stall. Not looking for brand specific just want your input so that I can make the right the decision the first time. I do not like spending good money more than once and do not like touching things more than once. In advance, I appreciate you for your assistance.....I am almost there.

V/R,
Ed

 

FTI Performance Torque-Converters offers great products; they are also a very active and supportive sponsor here.

The man to talk to is Dalton. he will most likely chime in soon.

Otherwise... Please visit: FTIPerformance.com -OR- Please call: 866-726-8358 and ask for Dalton.
They will take good care of you.

 

The information provided in the OP is what each company suggested for my setup.

 

To try and put this plainly...

The stall speeds are an approximate RPM, in which the engine will rev to for the torque-converter to start accelerating the vehicle from a stop.

You can kind of think of it as letting the clutch out on a standard shift transmission.

One converter acts like the clutch is let out at 2,600 RPM and the other at 3,200 RPM.

The difference with a torque-converter VS a clutch being that the slip between the engine and transmission is much more gradual than dumping the clutch.

 

Honestly; I would call Dalton at FTI and have him explain to you how the physics works.

I am sure he has great examples and explanatory descriptions that would be better at helping one to understand everything you wish to know.
He is a professional in this field after all.

 

Talked to FTI today and was given a great explanation of how the different stalls would work in my configuration.
Basically, I would not see a difference or the difference between the 2800 and 3200 would be very minimal. With the weight of my car the 2800 would be looser. Either one is a good recommendation; six in one and a half dozen in the other. With lock up and low gears, cruising on the highway and in town would not be a problem. Now, it’s just a matter of deciding between the different companies. The price difference between the two is $50.

 

From my experience and what I've heard from those that have cut apart converters from many many manufacturers. I would be spending my dollars with FTI if it were between them and yank.
Just my .02

And I don't even know which one is more expensive!

 

The quote from FTI is less.

 

First off thanks for all the kind words gentlemen!

OP: I don't believe we spoke but it sounds like the guys got you taken care of, if you have any questions feel free to reach out.

Vortec, I wanted to correct you on this because it is a common misconception that often has buyers weary of getting a high stall converter. nothing personal.

the "true stall" of a converter is its ability to hold the engine at a certain RPM with no rotational output(IE input shaft is not moving, think transbrake). Next you have "foot brake stall" this is the RPm that the conv can hold the engine at without pushing through the brakes. If you brakes are good enough, foot brake and true stall can be the same thing, if not then it will be below true, most cars footbrake stall 800-1000 below true stall before pushing through brakes(this is where i wanted to correct the clutch comparison above, see next paragraph).
--NOTE: this 800-1000 difference is not absolute and will vary car to car based on gear, brakes, trans, power, torque--

So the reason a converter does not behave like a clutch a (on or off) is because it is a fluid coupling(1 set of fins moving fluid to drive another set of fins). This coupling is ALWAYS trying to move the car forward regardless of speed, it just does it more efficiently at different engine and vehicle speeds. This means that depending on your speed and RPM, (think light daily type driving, we will get to race situations) you are constantly getting some sort of slip or % loss from the converter unlike a clutch which is either 0% off, or 100%. Now bringing stall back into this, the true stall RPM is going to be where the converter becomes efficient, meaning at this RPM most slip is gone (80-95% efficient) now below that stall speed, that efficiency will fall meaning more slip, BUT the converter is still working to move the car forward.

Now we move into the race type driving, introducing "flash stall" flash stall is what the RPM will flash too as the car accelerates until the drive shaft can catch up. Now we all know a motor makes more power at different RPMs. so by introducing a high stall converter we can keep the motor making more power longer by keeping it in that rpm range. so instead of bogging a motor with a stock converter at 1800rpm stall and lets say 175hp at that rpm, we can use a high stall converter, let the motor "flash stall" to say 3000rpm, now at the same point in the track we are now putting, lets 250hp to the ground vs. the 175 we got at 1800rpm. You essentially then "ride the converter" at this RPM until the drive shaft catches up and then engine RPM will climb normally as the car accelerates. Now there is also shift RPm fall back we could get into as well but for sale this post we wont.

Hopefully this makes sense to everyone, if it does not feel free to shoot me a message or contact me at the shop and we can talk about converters further and how they work.
all numbers are theoretical and just used to illustrate the point.

-Dalton

 

Thank you

I did not have a good enough simple explanation... and thus is why I made the posts to talk to you gentlemen.

 

Thanks for reaching out, unless you have addtl info to add to my response the staff mbr answered my questions. I will reach out to you guys in a couple of weeks for a converter.

 

I'm not sure why you are limiting yourself to FTI and Yank. I went with a 3200 CIrcle D converter and have been very happy. They offer a free re stall within a year of purchase if you are unsure of what you need. I previously bought budget converters and have been very disappointed. I grew up in a 69' Buick Electra 225 with a 455. Some really nice lines on those cars. Sounds like a cool project.

https://www.circledspecialties.com/4...o-series-245mm

 

My first quote was from Circle D, but it was for a 4L60 build; need to get a new quote for my 4L80.

 

Out of the 3 companies mentioned...

I would go with FTI!

And I am only used to spending several thousand per converter from Neal Chance.

 

Why FTI over the others?

 

I prefer FTI for their:

-available selection.
-materials used.
-method of construction.
-technology used.
-design choices.
-quality control.
-performance.
-reliability.
-cost.
-availability of service and repair.
-customer service.

The bottom line is that I like the products... I like the people behind the products... and I like to cost to performance ratio.

 

While I don't have vorteciroc's experience with different converters, I greatly appreciate and give credit to FTI's participation, contributions and willingness to answer question on this forum.
4 years ago I bought a Circle-D triple disk which has worked very well for me; one decision factor was that they were very active on this forum then. However, they have had only two posts in the last 3 years.
Looking at FTI's post #9 above, it probably took him close to an hour to write that very informative and thorough post.
While FTI's converters might indeed be superior, even if they were only equal to others (and they certainly are at least that), IMHO, we should choose those companies that are donating their time to help educate us here. Its a Win-Win.

 

I appreciate the info from everyone and it’s very beneficial. I have not bought a torque converter since exchanging my 460 to a 429 many years ago. The cost of admission to the better than stock units is steep, but the exchange of info on the form has helped me knowledge wise and I have a warm fuzzy about purchasing this to mate with my engine.

 

There is a night and day difference between the $300 range to the $800/$900 range torque converters. Once you make the jump you will be kicking yourself for waiting so long.

 

Looking forward to it. The only reason I am making the jump is because I decided to LS swap versus rebuild the nailhead in my Buick.