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the sonnax low/roller race is just a machined stock race I believe
I've seen a few broken
the rear end failure is 100% to blame for this trans failure.
Get her fixed up and good luck
Yes the race only has one set of drive lugs, it could be a machined stock race. If I could get a replacement bearing I maybe able to reuse this shell, with a little machining.
Over the years I have been copying and saving information from posts mostly from PBA/Dana, MaroonMonsterLS1 and vorteciroc concerning 4L60E modifications, mostly dealing with the hydraulic circuits. I realize that you can get into trouble when picking and choosing which combinations of mods to apply, so would you guys check over what I have in mind for this unit?
Trans is going in a 02 Firebird with an LS1 engine making around 450 rwhp. It will have a 4000 stall converter and 410 rear gears. I plan to rev it to 7200-7400 rpm.
This is how I plan to set the transmission up.
Clutch Clearances
Reverse Input Drum .040" To .070". Forward Clutch .030" minimum and .063" maximum 3-4 Clutches .025" minimum and .040" maximum Band clearance of .075" minimum and .125" maximum
A "waved" steel to replace the Belville steel in the Reverse Input Drum.
For the Input Drum I have a homemade copy of the Sonnax Smart-Tech drum with 8 BorgWarner High Energy 3-4 frictions and Kolene steels. TransGo 7-CS clutch spring kit
In the Pump I plan to use a 7 vain rotor.
I will be using Sonnax 2nd and 4th apply servo
Separator Plate Feed Holes
Reverse .104” Band release .104" Check ball Hole that is next to this hole just left of Band Release Hole should be blocked 1-2 feed hole to .099" (with Sonnax 2nd apply servo) 2-3 shift feed hole to .155" 3-4 feed hole to .140" to .155" (with the Sonnax 4th apply servo) 3-2 hole to .120" AFL balance leave it stock Must block the 3-2 control valve to use the larger 2-3 feed hole and band release hole.
I am using the Sonnax HD 2-3 Shift Valve so I will leave out the overrun clutch check ball in the vale body.
In the case I will block off the 4th accumulator feed and leave out the accumulator piston. Also leave the #6 check-ball on the case-side of the separator plate.
Valve body I will be blocking the 3-2 Down Shift (#389) and 3-2 control (#391) valve inboard. Installing a Sonnax HD 2-3 Shift Valve 2 Sonnax Forward & Reverse Abuse Valve kits Sonnax 2-3 O-ring end-plugs
Along with parts from a TransGo HD-2-C kit.
After installing a Sonnax .490 boost valve I will check line pressure and if short of 245 psi I will adjust higher with an EPC Solenoid adjustment.
Thank you for any guidance that you can share with me.
Brian
Could you please explain what you mean by "For the Input Drum I have a homemade copy of the Sonnax Smart-Tech drum with 8 BorgWarner High Energy 3-4 frictions and Kolene steels..."?
Do you mean you added the reinforcement sleeve kit and special piston? Did you add their special apply plates and a cap on top and drill & tap15 holes for hold-down screws, or something else like a 4L79? Thanks.
Could you please explain what you mean by "For the Input Drum I have a homemade copy of the Sonnax Smart-Tech drum with 8 BorgWarner High Energy 3-4 frictions and Kolene steels..."?
Do you mean you added the reinforcement sleeve kit and special piston? Did you add their special apply plates and a cap on top and drill & tap15 holes for hold-down screws, or something else like a 4L79? Thanks.
Yes, just like the Sonnax drum but without their apply plate. With the bolt on end cap the frictions seem to wear evenly to me, so I didn't see a need for the Sonnax apply plate.
If you didn't get a Sonnax Smart Shell I'll send you a place to try and a discount code to get it for around $95 (if they have it.) I had 1 in my Cart but I waited this long I can wait a little longer.
Thanks for the offer, but the trans is back in the car now. I went with a Monster shell from WIT, part # A74624AB.
The 6T45E in my wife's car went out yesterday so I'll be busy with that this week. After I recover from that I'll look into ordering another Sonnax Smart Shell to keep in stock.
Last edited by bbond105; Aug 21, 2022 at 11:08 PM.
I just wanted to say, that technically the 1/16 NPT Plug is the better sealing option (More of, and finer Threads).
If you are not careful with the 5/16" Plug, they can leak...
I have seen many that have leaked without enough Red Thread-Locking Compound.
It seems that the solidified Thread-Locking Compound does most of the sealing at times.
I just wanted to say, that technically the 1/16 NPT Plug is the better sealing option (More of, and finer Threads).
If you are not careful with the 5/16" Plug, they can leak...
I have seen many that have leaked without enough Red Thread-Locking Compound.
It seems that the solidified Thread-Locking Compound does most of the sealing at times.
Thank you for your input. I will use the 1/16 NPT plug on the next one. I didn't have the 1/16 NPT tap, so I used what I had. I feel that it is okay though because I always overdo it with the locking compound
Thanks EVERYBODY ABOVE! I used to do custom bent hidden nitrous systems last century and the NOS Fogger nozzles were 1/16th NPT, I'll dig around to see if I can find the tap... I can always steal a plug off the SS out back, it hasn't been started since 1999, I don't think anyone will mind. I like NPT because of the taper fit, you can change the look by just tapping it a little more to sink it in farther. Thanks vortec, your warning is duly noted on not going too deep.
Monster, if I can't find the 1/16NPT and go 5/16NC, did you need to use a bottoming tap?
But 5/16-18 with a taper tap, red loctite, and tighten the thing against the tapered bottom of the tapped threads...and it will be just fine
I figured it was easier to just order 1/16NPT plugs from Amazon than to remove the SuperRam lid & plenum to get to a plug on the nitrous distribution block, so I'll have them Sunday. The only affordable ones were 304SS, $7.79/5pcs. I have Loctite 263 red for the capscrews on the input drum, that should work. I can't believe I've been without a vehicle for 10 months now! Thanks.
Be careful with Stainless-Steel and Aluminum...
The Stainless with very easily cut and gall the Aluminum.
For the future, I would recommend Brass instead, or generic Steel.
Thanks for that tip--I didn't see any brass ones and the aluminum they did offer would have been almost $11 for two plugs, plus delivery was after Christmas I think. I see black anodized but would you pay $11 for a pair? If they sold them each, I'd consider it... A brass one is available next Wednesday for $7.55 for ONE. I originally thought to go with aluminum in aluminum, but figured it's gonna be Loctited and it should act as a lube until hardened and the taper is what will do the majority of the sealing, followed by the Loctite, no?
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