Well one step forward, two steps back today.
Yesterday I forgot to plug the damn manifold pressure switch back in, the connector was under the edge of the switch and I didn't notice it. I am a freaking idiot.
Pulled the pan again today and plugged it in but I have much the same results as when it was unplugged, trans temp always reads 194 F.
This makes me think I might have a faulty Manifold Pressure Switch. I might just get a new one and see what happens, cheap and easy enough.

The short log I have attached was after reconnecting the switch. Notice engine off and current gear "1".
On engine start trans current gear goes to "4" then after about 10 seconds goes to '2' Shift lever is in P this whole time.
At 0:55 I am in O.D. and let off the brake, trans current gear goes from "2" to "3" to "4" almost immediately then back to "2"
Gear remains"2" until the moment I shut off the engine and it goes back to "1"

 

Frank, would this tell me anything more than using VCM Scanner to force the gear selections? I did that yesterday and got noticeably faster wheel speeds with each successive gear selected. Am I right to assume this means the transmission is probably mechanically OK?

 

I am pretty sure its not a trans issue, Just I like to follow the chain and eliminate with absolution on step at a time. i would agree perhaps the manifold sensor is a likely culprit with the readings you are getting .
Frank

 

New manifold pressure switch on order from Rock Auto. Pan is drained and loose ready for when it arrives.
Fingers crossed, stay tuned.....

 

I think I might have just stumbled across my error.
When I did my transmission segment swap I only did a "Write Calibration" to the PCM, what I am finding out now is that I should have done a "Write Entire"
Could this be it?

I will read the PCM tonight and see what the tune says with regards to the transmission controls. then do a "Write Entire" with my most recent tune.

 

I've been having the same issues gremlinizing my new setup where it drives pretty normally but when I floor it from a dig and I have traction it's in fourth gear by 40 mph. I believe your issue is to be a faulty TPS sensor as that's what my issue seems to be, that and possibly a worn out throttle body shaft. I've put them on brand new ( TPS sensor ) out of the box and found them to be faulty especially the cheaper ones like the ones that are molded in gray plastic instead of black rarely work if at all, you really get what you pay for when it comes to sensors for older engines these days. Sometimes you might be having problems with your map sensor or You can have low manifold vacuum because your engine is modified, The PCM won't look always look at the TPS and see something is wrong because it thinks you're playing around with the throttle to keep the engine running due to the lower vacuum etc or if your like me you widened the map table as far as it would go because you have the biggest cam they make, it can hide problems with the TPS even though it shows 0% at idle and 100% at wot if the return spring inside is broken it can cause all kinds of intermittent and elusive problems, You have to physically take the sensor off the throttle body and look at it and check that the return spring inside isn't broken sometimes people break them when they install them as well so be careful of that just another thing to check that will cause that annoying *** first to fourth issue. It's a weak part and it breaks all the time especially if you drive the car hard I can't tell you how many times I've had to replace my throttle position sensors over the years

 

The Manifold Pressure Switch was not the problem. I replaced it tonight, and same results as before.
Key on, engine off shows 1, start engine jumps to 4 for about 10 seconds, then 2 for the duration.
You can see the solenoids switching on and off in the transmission data top left of the scanner, data log attached.

Bill from HP Tuners says that I don't need to do a Write Entire for the transmission segment swap.

I don't know where to go from here....please help!...

 

Thanks for that response, I think my TPS is OK. My problems are occurring before you even touch the gas. The data log above is purely at idle, my foot is off the gas, just shifting through gears manually and logging the response.

 

Here is a link to a YouTube video of HP Tuners VCM Scanner showing the solenoid status and commanded gear.
Interesting note that the trans temperature has always shown as 194 F with the old Manifold Pressure Switch, and then exactly the same with the new MPS.

I will entertain any and all ideas that I might try to fix this issue. The car is ready to drive, but not with this transmission issue.

 

I'm telling you you just need to take the sensor off of the throttle body it's too tiny torque screws it will take you 30 seconds to remove it and inspect it and ensure that the return spring inside is not broken if the spring inside is broken then that is your issue and you just need a new TPS sensor

 

I think the tps is okay also. Watching the video the the tps voltage did not move. Were you giving it throttle? I think you have a mismatch of parts or tune or bad wiring. That manifold pressure switch is doing some weird stuff. I also did not see any vehicle speed. Something is very wrong.

 

No throttle at all in the video. the point at which the speedo jumps up is in O.D. when I let my foot off the brake.

 

Even the shift solenoids are switching on and off with no vehicle speed or TPS increase, that is not right. I would talk to some tuners that are good with swaps or try posting in the PCM Diagnostics & Tuning section.

 

Thanks, I will try that. I posted to a Facebook 700R4 / 4L60E group this morning.
Sounds like you are leaning away from the transmission being the problem too. The trans temp stuck at 194F is what makes me think its in the PCM or tune or configuration or something along those lines.

 

Yes, I feel it is not a mechanical trans issue. The trans can only do what the PCM tells it to do and the PCM is telling it some really stupid stuff. It could be the segment swap for year trans or PCM or hardware not compatible. Sorry I'm not much more help, I am learning to tune but not to this level yet. I would get the opinion of more then the mail order tuner you are using.

 

I have found that some tuners don't take the time to really get the tune right for us small time run of the mill projects. That is why I am learning to do it myself and yes I have used your tuner before and another big name well respected tuner in my region. My car runs a lot better now that I have been tuning it.

 

So I think I might be onto something.

Question:
C1 Blue PCM connector.
Pin 41, circuit 407.Black wire, Trans Temp Sensor Ground. This wire connects to "M" at the round transmission connector on the transmission.

I DO NOT have continuity to ground with the connector removed on Pin 41 or Pin 1, circuit 451, PCM Ground. I DO have continuity to ground with the connector attached to the PCM.

I DO have continuity to ground at all times on Pin 40, circuit 451, PCM Ground.

Question:
With the connector REMOVED from the PCM, should I have continuity to ground through circuit 407?

 

Pin 41, no continuity to ground

 

that pin ground is just for trans fluid temp
not going to affect your whacky shifting

for the solenoids, the pcm provides the ground to activate the noids

 

You are right, Pin 41 goes straight from the PCM to the Trans Fluid Temp sensor on the Manoifold Pressure Switch, and getting ground when plugged into PCM so it should be OK.
My pin 1 is simply suppling ground for my OBD2 connector, and I know that is working properly.

Back to square 1.