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Stall recommendation?

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Old Dec 23, 2021 | 09:29 PM
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Default Stall recommendation?

What stall would you recommend for a street/strip car on foot brake. Car is.
2004 mustang
6.0 with 706 heads
stage 2 btr ls cam
.660 valve springs
rocker trunnion upgrade
4l60e with all the good parts
4.10 gears in 8.8
stripped interior
275/60-15 28” tall
150-250 shot of nitrous.
holley terminator

not sure what else is needed. Car would be 75/25 strip over street.
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Old Dec 24, 2021 | 12:14 AM
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Recommendation is to take that list, and talk to a converter builder.
@FTI Converters @Jake's Performance both support the forum and do nice converters
Dalton at FTI
Kameron at Jake's

PTC (dusty bradford)
Tampa Performance (Ryan Jans spec, florid torque converter build)
etc the list goes on and on
A converter builder will be able to give you what they believe to be the best combo based on their understanding of the converter and their experience with other setups similar to yours.

Personal opinion, a 4200 ish stall billet front 9.5" converter will be a good starting point. Stator and pump to suit
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Old Dec 24, 2021 | 12:58 AM
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It’s going to depend a lot on what the engine makes power wise. You can run as high of a stall as you want, however if the engine can’t make the power, you won’t hit the stall. Instead, it will bog down at whatever you can push. Also, considering nitrous is set up for WOT in most cases, don’t count that in for your stall, as in most cases, you probably won’t be pedal to the metal on the line.

Good advice above. Get a good builder to crunch your numbers and set the appropriate tight/loose and RPM settings for your stall. With nitrous in the picture you’ll have to be pretty high to sit on the line with it flowing, as in pedal mashed down and all that good stuff. Hopefully your brakes are up for it too.
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Old Dec 27, 2021 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ChopperDoc
It’s going to depend a lot on what the engine makes power wise. You can run as high of a stall as you want, however if the engine can’t make the power, you won’t hit the stall. Instead, it will bog down at whatever you can push. Also, considering nitrous is set up for WOT in most cases, don’t count that in for your stall, as in most cases, you probably won’t be pedal to the metal on the line.

Good advice above. Get a good builder to crunch your numbers and set the appropriate tight/loose and RPM settings for your stall. With nitrous in the picture you’ll have to be pretty high to sit on the line with it flowing, as in pedal mashed down and all that good stuff. Hopefully your brakes are up for it too.
Not factoring nitrous into your converter selection is normally a bad idea... OP make sure to mention the nitrous when spec-ing out the converter as it will play a large role in converter selection. Not factoring the nitrous will likely lead to you blowing through the converter and not getting the full benefit of the nitrous.
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Old Dec 30, 2021 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by FTICONVERTERS
Not factoring nitrous into your converter selection is normally a bad idea... OP make sure to mention the nitrous when spec-ing out the converter as it will play a large role in converter selection. Not factoring the nitrous will likely lead to you blowing through the converter and not getting the full benefit of the nitrous.
I may have been unclear about that. My point was you have to have the stall high enough to be WOT on the line with nitrous running if that’s the goal. For a lot of street car builds I’d wager many don’t have the additional supporting parts to handle that, but that also depends on how much giggle juice too. I don’t build converters though, so fair enough. Just my opinion and depends on how much the OP wants to spend in the end. If he were to throw a trans brake into the picture for example, that changes things. Not arguing at all, just saying most street cars on NOS may have a rough time trying to do both without sacrificing something as far as drivability.
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