awesome, good to hear. and thanks for the Google doc! that helps a lot for the finer details.
I have a madmans dipstick coming by Friday.
I still have a bit of things to do before I get ready for starting.
gotta fit the shield which im wonderingnif I need to cut off that protrusion inside the bell housing to keep it from contacting the stall or anything. I'd rather not lol
gotta find a nut to fit the trans bushing.
the fti stall came with bolts, but I think I might grab some arp bolts. it 0nly came with 3 stall to flexplate bolts but it had 6 pads so im wondering if I'm suppose to have 6 bolts to mount it.
found that since I have a ls to 4l80 flexplate, it's built with a spacer so I don't need a extention on the snout of the stall pilot.
still gotta adjust the adjustable torque arm. should be interesting with a full length arm lol

 

Got the madmans dipstick in!! man was that a chore trying to cram it in with everything in the way. I recommend prestagging it before you have the transmission in. you can do it but it takes some maneuvering. I had to take the cooler lines out to get it to fit right. the gasket is a bit stiff and has to be kinda stiffed in there.
started bolting the stall to the flex plate and that's when I ended my night as I sliced my two smaller finger knuckles and was bleeding like a pig after the pry bar slipped while I was trying to turn the flex plate lol I was running out of daylight anyway lol

fits nicly under the cowl. takes a sec to figure out how to get it in there. easist is to feed it up from the bottom.

there it is!!! stall and flexplate almost touching! gotta modify the inspection cover.

UMI 4l80 trans mount with long torque arm mount. gotta do some reading on which spot to bolt that on to. the tq arm is adjustable so fixing pinion angle will be fine. juat gotta stuff the new yoke and drive shaft in there after the atall and flexplate are bolred together.

 

stall is bolted to the flexplate finally!! I was getting a little worried at first. I thread one bolt on and then the entire thing stopped rotating, which turns out I somehow used one of the wrong holes. scared me for a sec cause it wouldn't budge even with an wrench on the crank bolt lol I was like... this ist right lol so I removed the first bolt I threaded into the stall and spung the stall a little to see which holes lined up better. so crisis averted lol

I also got the drive shaft in. slide right on with no problem! Denis Yoke for the win! i do want to get some new hardware and straps for the rear end later. some pull out with it off the ground, so when It settles on the ground I'll see what the distance is.

the umi torque arm went right in with almost no issue. set is on the lowest hole sets since I wasn't sure which one it should be in. I'll figure that out when I start seeing what my pinion angle and drive angles are at. Definetly gw the UMI 4l80 mount if toure using a long torque arm still! bolts right in.

The dipstick tube was a bear fighting the tube and grommet into the transmission. after a few choice words and slight bending on the mad Mike's tube, it finally slide in. even with everything out of the way, it's still tight. recommend if you get this before install. It works great once it's in place.

Installed the inspection cover. had to slightly take off a little material by the starter and the opposite side. used a couple of original bell housing bolts for the two bottom holes to the engine, and then 4 other bolts i had that look like they were the same size as cylinder head accessory bolts. worked out nicely actually.

filled up the trans with about 6 quarts of dex VI.

waiting on the battery to charge unfortunately so no starts yet lol video will follow shortly.

So excited!! cant wait to start it and begin tuning again!

 

well crap... I might have to swap out all my 98 specific sensors for new 99+ sensors for the new PCM. I'm not getting any crank or fuel pump priming. VATS was disabled in tune and resistor in the dash. I did get a new TPS before hand but didn't install it yet. I'll have to hook up my HP tuners to see if the tune truly is still good for the car.

I'll have to review my pins and make sure I don't have any recessed pins or crossed wires of some kind. i have a few wires disconnected that I accounted for such as the after level sensor.

Ah the joys of swapping the harness lol almost wished I just got a new painless harness lol probably easier and more reliable.

 

damn it...
Well I started checking my work and made sure I had a fully charged battery, checked the scanner to see if there was any issues, and checked the plug ends to make sure they were fully seated. after I did that, I got my fuel pump priming again, but still no crank. went to verify if my starter might have gone out by installing the brand new one and then still no crank and this time after I repositioned the pcm back into its little spot, no crank or fuel prime... so I think one of my wires are either kinked, the pin isn't fully seated in the plug and backs out when I plug it in, or worse case, I've either crosses pins somehow or even worse I got a bad pcm which I hope now.
Looks like i got some wires to trace and cross reference from the skematic to make sure i have the right pins in first.
either that or I spring for the new harness and call it a day. Might still spring for some new sensors just in case

 

silly question,
is there a relearn process for the PCM when introducing so many variables to the new pcm like a disabled VATS, 4l80 segmented tune, etc? just rying to narrow down my search. gonna have to hook up hptuners to verify internal stuff, juat waiting to buyb more credits since I've updated like everything lol

 

made some progress today. reviewed every wires on the swap instructions, missed a purple wire that was suppose to go into blue pin 58 at the end of the instructions.
I now have now that I went the harness pins and checked every pin, and my fuel pump primes everytime. I'll have to verify what the wire was exactly.
Hooked up hp tuner and resynched the new pcm to HPtuner. its not bricked so thats a plus. Downloaded the current tune off the pcm, and 4l80e is in there, and i have a different looking tuning parameters thanks to the new pcm, and looks like i now have real time turing available which hopefully might make tuning easier.
Unfortunatly even after swapping to a new starter, still no cranking. No faults other than low MAP sensor voltage. Not VATS and I can't do a crank sensor relearn since I can't rev the engine it seems.
so im a bit at a lose at what's next other than going through every single wire and tracing to see what they are suppose to be hooked to.

 

Holy crap.. if it ain't one thing it's another. so I was messing with some wiring making sure every pin is the right spot, nothing bent or broken by chance shoving them in to the slots, and no backed out pins. check

So I go back on hp tuners and find that I need to purchase more credit for the new pcm that happens to be an 02 Z28 with a flash that is simular, and not simular to mine currently so I had to go in and make sure parameters were set correctly and VATS was disabled.

Start going through starter and and ignition skematics to make sure I have everything in place. Do some cranking on the key and hear slight clicking but no solenoid engagement, so I got curious.... come to find out after swapping a couple of the relays around and the starters relays had gone bad 😡 Got that glorious solenoid click finally but didn't get cranking yet... so I did what any good mech does and smack the starter thats been sitting for over a year in the elements while the transmissions been getting pieced together... and after a couple of cycling the key... it cranks over and stumbles all over its self trying to find its idle!!!!!! SUCCESS!!!!

Long story short or BLUF for us military types, dont give up and always check you work, and always was use the KISS method 😀

Now to relearn how to use HP TUNER with the real time tuning feature that i was watching to get my base tunes idle back to running. im wondering if i need to copy over the entire tune over from the 98 since the idle was running juat fine before I got this tune that was supposedly setup for my setup. even the injectors were way off. for 80lbs injectors they had them set at 70 in the tune, which is way too low, and with my return system, it should be closer to 92 across the board at the very least if not higher. I have to copy over the injector data which some of its in there but other tables are not so much. once I can get thw car back up and running on its own power, then it's time to test and tune the new 4l80!

 

Good work! Been watching this thread since the beginning since I also have a 98 and have considered doing a 4l80 swap if I ever add boost. In your opinion, do you think the 99+ pcm swap is worth it? Are you swapping simply for more control over things or is there a better benefit over your old 98 PCM? I know the 98s have their limitations, but just curious.

 

Awesome! Hope I helped a little at least lol
Swapping over to the 411 PCM, other than having to buy 2 more HPT credits was totally worth it! the pin swap was a bit of a pain, but being able to real time tune now is amazing!! I litterally could adjust my idle on the fly current. it's a bit of a learning curve again due to the layout being slightly different again for some of the tables, so following along ChopperDoc and Goatrope is definetly a timely process of watching, pausing, and figuring out where some of the buttons are hiding.
But for running the car now, it's awesome so far. im still checking things and making sure I don't have any leaks and finally topped off the transmission while idling.
once I get it on the ground and double check to make sure I'm not leaking.
​leaking.
Im also not sure if I'm recording the correct map sensor as a 2 or 3 bar in the scanner. I have 15 to 315 kpa in my scanner, but i was only idling so I didn't hit any other cells past 15pka. I think I might have stuck my old 2 bar in there and forgot to put the 3 bar map senor on the car.

 

WOOHOO!!! Got it to go in drive!!!!

So looking at the segment swap I think I messed up when I switched the systems tab to fbody instead of gmt800 which It was in when I got the car to turn over. this freakenstien piece is getting complicated lol

Now to smooth out the tune for drivibility

 

Nice!